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Replacing control arms on a semi rusted 99 that was hit in the front.
Right side vent ok except the rear 3 bolts were installed incorrectly- the short bolt was not in the right spot.
Left side went like poop. The big nut on the front did not move with a wrench so I removed the the link bushing pin. The 2 rear bolts came out fine. The front snapped off. (red Arrow)
Is the part the suspension member that it bolts to? How hard to remove the member from a junk yard- no air?
Please help with possible fixes? I am afraid to remove the member as I might run into more bad bolts. Take to machine shop to drill and tap? Put it back together with 2 bolts then get it welded?
Replacing the Suspension Cross Member is a "Big" job with a used one from a salvage place. Just make sure you buy one for whatever you have A/T vs M/T. Just about everything up front is attached to it (Rack, LCAs, Anti-sway bar, engine cross member and so on.)
If the stud snapped flush, that means drilling it out and depending on luck, several choices on what to do. I'd buy a "Time-Sert" kit for the right bolt size.
If there's a stub you can grab, I'd use penetrating oil with a Q-Tip, let it sit over night, heat it with a torch and use vice grips to turn it out. If that doesn't work, see above. I'd also borrow the appropriate Tap and clean all the other threads up with oil and replace all six bolts. (Use anti-seize) If it's a GXE, Nissan still sells the bushings that go above and below where the crossmember mounts on the body posts. I'd replace them, if you go the used crossmember route.
eBay has used Suspension Cross Members if you can't find one locally. Either way this job will suck. Tapping it out will just suck a little less. LOL
It broke off recessed about .5 inches. It is a M14 x 1.50. What adds to the problem is that it was hit in the front on the left side. Not sure if the frame was bent so getting a replacement might be asking for more problems. I do think tapping is the best option but that would be risky too.
Well if your frame is bent, you have bigger problems.
But if your K-Frame (suspension cross-member) isn't bent or racked in the unibody, then you can repair what's there or replace it with a straight used one. If you're equipped to get under the car and disconnect everything attached to it and support everything that will dangle, A nice shape used one with all the threads cleaned up, would be nice (and all new bolts with anti-seize and new bushings)
But if you're not equipped, fixing that hole and cleaning up the rest and new bolts is do-able.
Use one of these. It has everything you need to drill it out, re-tap it to the insert size and insert the new thread sleeve (use red thread locker between the insert and K-Frame) You'll need to buy the right depth thread sleeve inserts with this though:
You can buy 28mm inserts (1.1 inches) in both carbon steel and stainless steel if the amount of thread is deep enough for the bolts used. You might have to contact them if the bolts go deeper as what to do:
I've used Time-sert on my Durango steering knuckle caliper bolts. Helicoil is a joke for serviceable thread repairs. They are holding like Iron. Way better than what Dodge gave us with their butter metal steering knuckles.
My hands are like rubber.... holding the drill upside down but it is tapped. I think I found my problem. I think the link pin is bent. I need to get a bolt from the junkyard to replace the broken one and see if there is an angle down on the end where the big nut goes.
08-10-2017, 09:15 PM
