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These sensors work together like a chain. One sensor feeds info to another and that one sends info to another, etc. Break a link in that chain and many of the other sensors will also no work correctly. The car's computer, the ECU, only knows that the sensor isn't working right. It's you job to figure out why.
There is no guarantee that the other sensors are good. Replace the IAT sensor and see what happens. In case you are not aware of this, when you replace a part, the check engine light does not go off automatically and a scanner will still show the code. You can either reset the code with a scanner or drive the car for several days and the codes will be reset eventually.
The IAT is located after the air cleaner in the MAF tube. Goto page 11 in this link for a locator diagram. Look on the right side of the diagram.
+1 to above. I have found the IAT plug partially disconnected on more than one 4th gen after I buy one. The plug socket should firmly snap into place. In one case the plug had been disconnected for a while because road grime had covered the plug contact points. I would clean the plug contacts then use a little diaelectric grease then reseat and snap into place to see if the code was triggered by a contact problem.
Thanks guys !! I'll definitely check everything that was mentioned.
I'll just add, that I just got back from Advanced Auto and had them also check it . The guy said, it was probably my exhaust leak (towards the front) that was the cause ( I didn't even think of mentioning this because with it's age the exhaust has always had a few leaks that I eventually fix ) Is it possible that this time the exhaust could be the problem ?
He thought the pressure sensor was the tip off, saying the leak caused a lack of pressure.
So, should I first fix the exhaust and see what happens before replacing any parts ?
And also if that does correct the problem will the light then go off ? Or do I still have to drive for a few days for it to reset.
Don't listen to that guy at Advanced Auto. He sounds like he is either an escapee from Autozone or trying hard to get in there.
While an exhaust leak is not a good thing, it has nothing to do with the codes you have. Maybe it could cause an oxygen sensor code, but I'm rather doubtful about that.
Continue with what has been said here. The codes will not go away immediately as previously stated. There are a few codes that will, but the ones you have are not among them.
Don't listen to that guy at Advanced Auto. He sounds like he is either an escapee from Autozone or trying hard to get in there.
While an exhaust leak is not a good thing, it has nothing to do with the codes you have. Maybe it could cause an oxygen sensor code, but I'm rather doubtful about that.
Continue with what has been said here. The codes will not go away immediately as previously stated. There are a few codes that will, but the ones you have are not among them.
Thanks Dennis I thought as much, but thought it best to ask here anyway. They did get the same codes as AZ had found.
I tried to locate the Intake Air Temp Sensor. I originally thought it was (A) but found it under this triangular box (B) where the arrow is pointing. Is this correct ? Photo C shows a close up.
I also found (Photo B) the air intake tube (?) disconnected where it is circled. Could this have caused a problem ? I reconnected it as it is in the photo now.
I will replace the IAT and see what I get , but I'm thinking I should probably pick up a scanner ? This way I could just reset the codes instead of wasting days driving only to find the problem may still exist.
Also my Inspection is due this month (of course) so I need to resolve this asap.
it seems to have descent reviews and isn't all that much for light use. And it's probably something I should have anyway. Any suggestions ?
I'll just add I checked the IAT connector with a meter and got 4.8 v and then did a continuity on the other side which was good. I also checked around for kinked hoses and loose connections or frayed wires as had been suggested but everything looked fine (for a 20 y/o car) other than the disconnected intake (?) in the second photo.
i just replaced my iat sensor on my 95, well, that is i asked my mechanic to because the one screw was rusted on the air box. as he was trying to get the screw off he dropped my maf/air box assembly and after he put it back together it threw a code for the maf. so i cleared the code and it hasn't come back yet. i just replaced that maf too, also did the maf boot, and a new iacv which i got a code for but i think i have a lower intake leak which might be throwing the p0505 code.
The part in Photo C looks to be it. On the latest project car (97 model) the previous owners had removed the air snorkel that connects in to the lower half of air filter box.
When the PO removed the snorkel, they also removed and discarded the IAT. So that car didn't have an IAT when we got it. It was throwing plenty of other codes I guess the previous owners didn't notice. I swapped in a used IAT that I pulled from the 99 model I30.
RockAuto sells the HITACHI TMS0003 sensor for $24.79.
The scanner looks to be good. They have come down in price over the years. I'm still using one that I bought at Harbor Freight for $59 (over 5 years ago) that I see now selling for $39. I think WalMart has the same unit for under $20 now.
The part in Photo C looks to be it. On the latest project car (97 model) the previous owners had removed the air snorkel that connects in to the lower half of air filter box.
When the PO removed the snorkel, they also removed and discarded the IAT. So that car didn't have an IAT when we got it. It was throwing plenty of other codes I guess the previous owners didn't notice. I swapped in a used IAT that I pulled from the 99 model I30.
RockAuto sells the HITACHI TMS0003 sensor for $24.79.
The scanner looks to be good. They have come down in price over the years. I'm still using one that I bought at Harbor Freight for $59 (over 5 years ago) that I see now selling for $39. I think WalMart has the same unit for under $20 now.
I believe it is the correct part. I took the IAT out looked it over to make sure I was getting the right piece, cleaned it and replaced it.
Interestingly I went out early this morn hit the parts store and picked up the IAT and a scanner. On a hunch and wanting to see if the scanner worked I connected it read the codes and then cleared them. I have since driven about 30 miles and so far the light has stayed off. I'm wondering now if I may not need to put the part in ? I'll continue to drive it and see what happens. If it does come back on I have the part right here.
Has anyone come across a situation like this were just clearing the codes 'corrected' the problem. Hopefully I'm not just speaking too soon ! We'll see. But if not I can install the part and try again.
Has anyone come across a situation like this were just clearing the codes 'corrected' the problem. Hopefully I'm not just speaking too soon ! We'll see. But if not I can install the part and try again.
Well kinda.. After cleaning a sensor, using a touch of dielectric grease on the contacts, and re-plugging with a good snap it to make sure it has a good contact, it I've remedied some code issues over the years. Once in a while I can get lucky like that by cleaning the contacts. But without making some physical change somewhere, the codes usually come back.
08-11-2017, 08:56 AM
so i cleared the code and it hasn't come back yet. i just replaced that maf too, also did the maf boot, and a new iacv which i got a code for but i think i have a lower intake leak which might be throwing the p0505 code.
