97_GXE

I actually found this out couple months ago, but couldn't get the main big bolt off so couldn't recommend it. This time I tried again. Removal requires no intake manifold or throttle body removal.

So, Idk if this requires a full diagram...but it's easy, though it involves draining of some coolant and removing 2 engine coolant hoses (which one will leak if not kept upright)

basically, you remove the air filter housing thing that connects to the throttle body. 1 screw and a couple clamps. Then, you take those 2 coolant hoses and pry them off. If never removed before, they can be kinda fused in there. But a forceful tug and even a flat screwdriver around the entrance and some lubricant spray will make it pop right off, and it's unlikely to damage the hose by pulling.

and then boom...EGR valve is right there and screws are accessible. But the catch is...if the large bolt connecting to the pipe has never been removed and is frozen, either a long open wrench or locking jaw pliers will be needed. Mine was rusted frozen, but after 30 minutes of so of numerous attempts with all my strength and might, i felt it move and from there I was able to screw it out by hand.

The annoying part though, is the bolt wouldn't screw all the way back in on the new one, and the little sensor bolt didn't seem to fit well either. I'm convinced the Japanese had the EGR and pipe made as one piece to begin with. I have never seen a bolt so tight. I had to keep second guessing whether I was even turning in the right direction (counter clockwise).

also, I almost could have removed the EGR tube without even cutting the bolt. Im prettt sure I was able to squeeze a socket in there, but by that time I was so beat up from trying to remove the EGR, I couldn't handle anymore.

Also, my check engine light is still on but, the last time I messed with the EGR, I just took the sensor tube out and put it back on while the battery disconnected...the check engine light was off for WEEKS. It had only just came back on a couple weeks ago.