I went on a long drive this past weekend.
I heard metal on metal noise from my rear left wheel, and saw scoring on the disk brake.

I was 250 miles from home. I noticed that the disk was hot to the touch, not quite too hot to touch.
The right rear disk was cool to the touch.

I decided to drive home on the freeway during a hot day. The car made it home ok

I took both brake calipers off for inspection.

The right pads were thick, while the left was worn down to nothing.

In the past, I have replaced the brake hose on other cars. They tend to delaminate inside, and cause brake drag.

I spun both brake disks, the right one spins easier than the left.

I think that the heat from the brake drag damaged the wheel bearing, and also the caliper.

Which brand of wheel hub have you guys used.
I'm looking on Amazon.

Should I consider rebuilding the caliper? Rubber seal kits are about 10 bucks.

 

Out pure of convenience, I've bought rotors and hubs from Advance online and specify in store pickup. I play the discount code game as much as possible. I'm still running a rear hub that I bought from them back in 2010. I don't know about their calipers.

Some parts from them are ok, some are not so ok.

The G35 rotors in the picture are working out ok. The blue paint is some type of rust preventative they spray on before packing.

 

I had a set of new rotors because I accidentally bought rear ones a few years ago, when I wanted front ones.

I bought a rebuilt caliper. My old one was stuck.
I bought a new hose as well, and ceramic pads

I thought about the brake drag and it's effect on the hub bearing. Then I thought of the aluminum wheEl bolted on to it. The wheel is basically a large, spinning heat sink. So the bearing is probably ok.

 

Many times when just one brake pad on a wheel wears out faster than the other, you have a problem with the caliper slide pins losing their lubrication and the caliper is sticking instead of centering on the rotor. Always check those pins when you work on brakes.

 

Dennis is onto something here!

I've learned the hard way to use silicone grease (in a tube) on all the friction points (NOT where the Pad and Rotor meet, LOL) of the pads and calipers and pins and pin boots.

I use Sil-Glyde, but Super Lube has a version too.

 

Thanks guys.

I bought new pins, new rubber parts , and the grease yesterday.

Because I have also experienced having to do premature brake work due to guide pins which needed grease.

This particular failure happened after storing the car outside from halloween to the end of June in the Pacific Northwet. Lots of rain here.

I have not bled the brakes in several years since I live by myself and my son is allergic to working on cars.

I feel that the moisture in the air comined with the brake fluid inside the caliper. This created rust.
The piston in the caliper probably siezed due to internal rust.

 

Here's a high-tech homemade brake bleeding system in the link below.

https://maxima.org/forums/fluids-lub...ng-system.html

 

yep same thing happen to me inboard pad down to metal and the out board pad about half .. the caliper slide pin rusted lucky got it out and trash it bought new slide pins and used sli glyde on them .. good stuff will keep the moisture out from corroding... 👌