I highly suspect ecu wiring harness. More info below but any tips on testing and fixing it? Fsm says should be continuity between 11 and 2, I tried to stick my multimeter in the ecu side of the harness and couldn't find continuity but maybe it's not getting deep enough into the plastic to connect. I can solder pretty well, but I'm afraid of touching this harness and breaking/shorting other connections.

Bought adriena's 3.5 swapped 99 that's been sitting for a year and a half, changed plugs, fluids except gas, rethreaded an intake manifold bolt, new MAF, battery, and vacuum hoses, the last step is draining the more than a quarter full fuel tank. I disconnected the line before the filter, the gas already in the line came out, tried turning it over and nothing... Tried putting a constant 12v right on the fuel pump using the tire air nipple as a ground and nothing... Tried hooking an LED up to the pump and turning the key and nothing.

The car is ecu swapped, so maybe it's wiring. Ive been looking through the fsm mainly EC-526 and troubleshooting, changed fuse 17 and 32, the relay has battery 12v on terminals 1&3, continuity between terminal 5 on the relay and 1 on the fuel pump harness, and now I'm stuck because I'm not sure what the fsm refers to by checking continuity between things and the body ground, what is the "body ground"

 

Body ground is the metal of the car's chassis, also called chassis ground. The cable from the battery negative terminal connects to the chassis underneath the battery tray. If the tire air nipple is what I think it is, there is no electrical connection to chassis ground.

Find something that is bare metal (i.e., unpainted), such as a bolt head, to use for a ground. Sometimes you have to scratch through surface dirt and corrosion to get a good connection.

Continuity is the term used to describe an electrical connection between two points. The word continuity comes from the word continuous. Having continuity means that the wire is not broken.

To check continuity, you use the ohmmeter part of your meter. You connect one of the meter's leads to one end of the wire and the other meter lead to the other end of the wire. Ideally the meter will indicate zero ohms when you have continuity, but reality may not show zero. Because of length of wire, gauge of wire, connections between the ends you are testing, ohmmeter inaccuracy, bad connection, you may get a reading of one or two ohms. This is usually OK.

When you are checking continuity, you want to have at least one end of the wire disconnected. Otherwise you will get backfeed from other connections, which will cause screwy readings.

Trying to get a meter to make connection by pressing it into a connector is assuming a lot. The meter probes are usually too thick to go into the connector far enough to make contact. You need something thinner such as a straight pin or a paper clip. A straight pin is fine for continuity, but not necessarily for jumpering voltage as it would be like using a too thin piece of wire.

As an FYI, please note that the ECU will not run the fuel pump if it does not get pulses from the crankshaft sensor. Trying to jumper the fuel pump was the correct thing to do.

 

It was the grounds on the upper intake manifold

 

So are you saying that you cleaned those grounds, then your problem stopped?

I like to clean ground wire contacts as preventative maintenance. Especially if I'm working near them anyway. Corrosion can change ohm resistance.

 

I forgot to tighten them back down to the UIM after I took it apart to rethread one of the middle UIM bolt holes and do the rear 3 spark plugs since it's a vq35. I was actually sitting on the ****ter when that thought crossed my mind hey I never connected those grounds under the hood!

 

Bought adriena's 99 3.5 swap (swap thread: https://maxima.org/forums/4th-generation-maxima-1995-1999/550098-vq35-swap-progress.html) Currently running a 96 ecu and harness and has sat for the last year and a half 2 years bc he believed it needed a JWT ecu due to A/F issues at high rpms, I think I have probably addressed the causes of this which I mention at the bottom

I started by changing the oil/filter and coolant, all 6 new v power NGK plugs, emptying gas tank after a while of figuring why it wouldn't send fuel (UIM fuel rail grounds disconnected). Penetrating oil in the cylinders and I manually turned the crank a lot (all but cylinder 3 bc I have to remove UIM again) Put2 gallons in and I think about a half oz of tcw 3 to help clear out the fuel lines, which I know is too much so I diluted it to half a tank and a new fuel filter. No dice, it stumbles with starter fluid but no start or action on the tach and now I'm not sure where to look. engine codes 0304 0401 0802 0807 1008 1302 irrelevant

While having the UIM apart to do the spark plugs I noted and fixed: one of the middle UIM bolts threads were non existent so it hadn't been doing its job, along with some messy vacuum lines including kinks and tears and finally the front valve cover breather hose was plugged with a clear bottle and it's spot on the injen intake was plugged with a bolt. The pcv valve also isn't hooked up but that's all I have yet to do to fix visible issues. I believe after all of this it should run fine

 

I guess I'll be first, and the bearer of good and bad news. There's no front crank sensor, which I'm afraid what that means for the internals of the tranny that's been sitting, advice? I'm assuming there needs to be one?

​​​​​​UPDATE: She lives! I added 2more gallons and some octane booster to hopefully make up for the loss in tcw-3. She also smokes like a *****, too much penetrating oil in the cylinders? Because it sat for so long? Too much tcw-3?

 

I have no experience with the 3.5 swap.

I overhauled a Toyota Corolla engine last winter.

I lightly coated the cylinders with engine oil. I also oiled the piston rings. The engine started, the smoke cloud was impressive for about 5 minutes, then it stopped. I have removed the cylinder heads in other cars for valve jobs and such. I coated the cylinder walls with a light coat of oil. Which also created smoke clouds.

In other words, your engine is ok.

Best wishes towards a successful engine transplant.

 

Got a 99 3.5 swap that has evap and EGR deleted, dealing with vacuum leaks (the outside studs on the Mani stripped omw to the auto store now) and he had the EVAP service port hose still connected which I capped off on the intake, I know everything is still in the rear by the tank is there anything I should cap off back there?

 

I bought adriena's 3.5 swap after it had been sitting for 2 years, redid the vacuum hoses because some were kinked and torn and the car idled around 1400 now it's all nice and neat idling around 1000. I tried carb cleaner around potentially leaky spots but I got nothing, made sure the tb cable was loose enough but I can't get the idle down to where it should be.

The car has an '02 engine in it with a 95 iacv 96 ecu and the '02 tb with an adapter, I don't know what I should be checking/testing

 

I merged all your 3.5 swap questions into this thread. Keep all 3.5 related questions in THIS thread.

 

Thanks I know it was getting scattered. I was messing with the tps and butterfly valve and eventually took the iacv off my old car and now it idles 600-700 and I'm a happy camper I just have to do the rear brakes and I'm gonna go cruising!