Okay, I recently changed the fuel pump, hoses, fuel filter the node sensor and crank shaft on my engine because the car kept cutting out on me while on the road.

When necessary, I sometimes spray some starter fluid in the manifold, which helps me get the engine started again, but it doesn't last very long (3-4 miles) and it stops on me again.

Also, my Check Engine light is not coming on and the dealership where I have taken it has hooked it up to their machine and are not getting any signals as to where the problem may be coming from.

Is there anyone who can offer some suggestions for what could possibly be happening and what part could be failing? Thank you!

 

You might want to edit your post.

You said that you replaced your crankshaft? ????!!!!
Perhaps you meant the crank sensor?

What is a node sensor? Knock sensor perhaps?

 

Yes, you are correct, JvG. I replaced the knock sensor and the sensor that is close to the oil filter, but I'm not sure what that one is called.

I also changed the relay of the fuel pump, which is located under the steering wheel on the left-hand side.

 

You replaced the fuel pump, fuel hoses, fuel filter, knock sensor and the crank shaft position sensor (REF) in order to address a stalling issue.

Symptoms of a failed knock sensor do not include stalling.

Along with the replacement of the fuel system components have you determined that you have adequate fuel pressure?

In addition to having replaced the CPS (REF) you might also consider replacing the CPS (POS) or at least inspect it for the presence of chipping.

More info is needed related to the circumstances associated with your stalling.

Does the car shut down while driving or does it stall when decelerating?

Does it stall while idling ... say at an intersection or stop light?

What's the driving situation when the stalling occurs?

 

Hi..Turbo..
Sorry I'm not a mechanic.
can explain that it is CPS REF
the car walks very well presents no problems.
The car driving at 80 miles goes off
Turn on all the lights on the board.
I hope a 10 minute turn on again.

 

I'm not a mechanic either. Most of us on this forum are not mechanics.

We do take time to do some research and educate ourselves about what the terms and concepts are.

We cannot help you if you don't know the basics.

Google is your friend. Learn about crank sensors and how they work.

So far it sounds like you have put in considerable time and money into fixing what might not have been broken.

 

This is the CPS (REF) you've apparently replaced.



This is the CPS (POS) that I recommend you at least inspect.



Once you pull it, it'll look like this.



See that "nipple" at the tip? Look for that nipple being chipped or cracked.

If it is, replace the sensor.

 

Thank you very much for the suggestions, Turbobink. I know I definitely changed the CPS (REF), but I will check out the CPS (POS) which I have not changed. Will let you know if that fixes the problem.

 

I did replace mine on my 01 recently. Check out the Standard T-series listed on Rock Auto for a replacement.

The connector is a spring type and what happened is the springs on my 01 were so badly rusted I wound up

spraying rust penetrant pushing down with flathead
Pushing back up with flat head
Spraying more rust penetrant
Pushing back down with flat head
Then back up
About 50 times until it came off.

Also I had mechanix gloves on too.
It's a real PITN if your going to try to disconnect the (POS)Piece of s*** sensor.

 

so youre saying the car stalls at 80 mph?

 

That's what I read too. Only two, maybe three things would cause a car to stall at those speeds, then work again 10 minutes later.

ECTS and the FPR are the primary culprits

 

A bad/dirty MAF can also cause sudden stalls, but I've never had it happen at anything close to that speed.

 

Yup, that would be the possible 3rd culprit. But the MAF usually causes stalls at low speeds or as one comes to a stop.

 

Hi!!! JVC
I have changed
crankshaft position sensor POS
I drove 3 miles and stopped again.
When the car is cold in the morning it lasts longer.
Let me know what to do.
I do not have a code of light.
Thank you

 

I think it's time you look at my suggestions.

 

Could a bad torque converter solenoid cause this "stalling"?
I had an olds build Back in the 90's the cars solenoid was causing this. Basically as it heated up it would stall out. Then if it cooled down it would start Back up.

 

HI!! The wizard !!
I changed the sensors ECTS and FRP
the problem continues
Thank you