Hi Guys,i have a 96 max thats in great cond with only 112k miles that has an issue it does consistently like clockwork i was hoping someone has seen or dealt with before that DOESN'T GIVE ANY CHECK ENGINE LITE/CODES EITHER.

I would think it's an issue with a sensor / elec switch issue of some kind

OK,whats happening is when i start the motor when its cold/sitting overnight it starts right up seeming to run normal but when i try to put it into gear after an approx 30sec-1min warm up the motor stalls out right off the bat like to turned the ign key off no matter if i put it into rev,neutral or drive (maybe issue with neutral safety sw or motor temp sensor?) this consistently happens every time i fire up the car/motor when its stone cold from sitting overnight.

But if i let the motor warm up a min of 2.5-3mins it will go right into rev/neutral/drive with no problem and the car motor/trans all run/shift fine for rest of the day.

And it wont do that again till the car/motor sits overnight and is stone cold again.

One other thing to add to this is that once in a while when starting the motor in morning when stone cold it will fire up for for like 1sec and stall out. Then when i refire it a 2nd time i have to give it a little throttle to get it to approx 1500-1800rpm for a couple secs and then when i let off the throttle it will drop back down to it's normal 950-1k rpm cold idle and again the motor runs fine after.

But you still have to wait 2.5-3mins to warm up motor a bit before going onto gear or it will stall out.

So maybe i have 2 diff un-connected issues going on at same time with one issue making the motor stall when going into gear until motor warms up 2.5-3mins and a 2nd issue being something (bad TPS or dirty/bad IAC) making me have to add throttle once in a while when starting cold and then it will idle & run fine after that.

And again,the check engine light doesn't come so no error codes.

So what do you think?

Thanks.....Scott

 

... Maf ...

 

It could also be the engine coolant temperature sensor reporting a warmer temperature than it truly is, resulting in a too lean fuel mix.

If you connect an OBD code reader that will show more than just the error codes, read the reported temperature before you start the engine. Just connect the code reader and turn the ignition switch to ON.

 

This only works with Android devices, but it's pretty cheap!



You can get a free app that will give you a lot of the OBD-II data available while the car is running. I used Torque Lite.

Oh and here's one that works for IOS (I haven't used it myself):

A reviewer for the scanner recommended the OBD Fusion for $9.99 from the IOS App Store for real time data.

 

Back in the olden days, this would be a symtom of choke trouble. Basicly, the engine needs a rich mixture to run at low temperatures. In other words, more gas in the air mixture until the car warms up.

I'm the olden days, the choke did that. If i recall correctly, in our cars, the iacv does that for us. You probably need to clean it.

 

From my experience, Ive seem this happen twice in my life. One being a thermostat leaking into the alt, causing some wierd electrical issue. The car would run fine in neautral, However me putting it into gear, and i guess from the load it would kill the car. That was 3 years ago. This past 6 months, It started again, when cold. Would randomly shut off when going into drive. I Finally got around to scanning the car, via the nis-2 adapter.. 2 weeks later the trans took a ****. Code was for excessive line pressure... Ide suggest having your trans checked out.. Just to rule that out.. if the trans fluid is like cold molasses in the morning it just wont pump or run the car correctly until the fluid is warm or thinned out.

 

+1 for Engine Cooling Temp Sensor (ECTS) as a place to start before spending more money. It's a low cost part at $18.61 for an Intermotor brand. Depending on location, OEM might cost less.

I've been running this part in the 99 and 98 model.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....316803&jsn=383

For a diagnostic tool, I use Nissan Data Scan I for Android (Google Play) with the CZP Interface Consult USB Cable - Datascan, Nistune, ConZult, ECUTALK, etc.

 

i had this happen to my 1999 maxima I was going crazy for 6 months until one of the nycmaximas members told me That it was the Torque converter but I changed the tranny also he said the tranny gets damaged also

 

FOLLOWUP!

As was suggested i went for a new MAF on Ebay for $20,ordered it & got it today.

Installed it and there was no more stalling going into rev/Neutral/Drive.

It seems as though the issue is fixed but still have to drive it for a few days to ensure it doesnt act up again.

If that didnt work out i was going to then try out a new temp sender but hopefully the new MAF sensor did the trick

So thanks a lot to everyone here that took their time to help me out.

Scott