Violator

As far as the O2 sensor related wiring there's no wire leading into either 3P or 7L on my car, so that just left me to tap the IGNSW wire into the power wire under the hood for O2 sensor. I can't say I really understand what was being said but it seems like redundant wiring unless your car uses those fuses and for some reason it needs power

I'll be off work in 2hours to finish the rest up

User1

I meant EVAP harness extension in the previous post, not EGR.

Violator

Now i'm stuck troubleshooting connecting to Nissan Data scan to reprogram the key/nats so I can fire it up. won't even connect to ECU talk. It's the KKL VAG-COM type cable. Uninstalled drivers, tried installing ones online, and the ones that came on CD. tried switching com ports rebooted computer no luck. Relays are clicking when I turn the key to try and connect

EC-736 shows the diagram for the data link connector being surprisingly simple and I'll go over it in the morning before returning back to PC troubleshooting. I also have a leak on the lower oil pan right in the corner, I think I was low on RTV and now i regret not waiting to go to the store. easy to remedy I just hate gasket scraping.

User1

I had to play with FTDI drivers a bit when I installed mine. As far as your OBD port splicing, I haven't a clue.

What OS are you using?

Violator

Windows 10. Did you get the blazt cable? I had ftdi drivers from when I messed around with nistune and a concept z consult cable and I remember that being a pain which is why I tried messing around with the drivers so much

For wiring you just jumper the power and ground over from the old connector to the new. The wiring diagram on EC-736 shows apart from ground and power theres just the 2 wires that go to the ECU. Should be easy to remedy the problem if it's wiring

User1

You'll get it. I'll be online all night.

Violator

Fixed some wiring errors but in the process I think I shorted the ECU I'm not getting 12v out of the Kline anymore. I'll grab an auto ECU at the yard and reflash it when it comes to that point.

Got a "new" cable on the way from concept z but now realizing the drivers on the site are just ch340 and it's probably gonna be the same cable I've got. Someone also reviewed on Amazon for the cable I got that theirs worked with NDS 2.

I've turned to EC 156 for the 03 ECU power diagram and it looks like CRTN (current return) may be for more than just the ignition coil signal, which I now realize I had wired to the wrong slot on the ECM relay. I also realized from 157 that I never bolted down the two little grounds by the fuel rail.

The O2 sensor and ignsw #43 for the ECM are actually wired up to 15A fuse 31 the original O2 power for the 98, the chart lists it as fuse 34 which was the original ignsw power. Not that it should actually matter unless I blow the fuse and it needs to be a 20A, it's good info.

User1

Glad you're getting it sorted out. Wish I could help more with the wiring. I think if you keep playing with your drivers you will solve your connection issue. An FTDI chip is a two dollar piece of hardware. Not much to them. I primarily use Linux, and so I installed dual-boot win10 on the laptop just for NDSII and did have issue for a few with the drivers. Not sure I remember how I fixed it but if you keep at it I'm sure you'll find your solution. I believe I just installed them manually from the source, here: https://www.ftdichip.com/FTDrivers.htm after getting tired of effing around.

Violator

My cable isnt FTDI it's got the CH340 chipset. And the only "official" place selling NDSii cables is concept z, and I'm sure it will be the same exact cable I already have bc the drivers are for a ch340 cable. Seems most cables now are being made with the cheaper ch340 chip. I couldn't get to the junkyard today before they were gonna stop letting ppl in so I'm gonna get up early in the morning to go. An auto ECU should work but I won't have reverse lights until I reflash it. Been over the wiring a dozen times and everything checks out i will probably just clean it all up and insulate the wires so I don't risk shorting out another ECM

User1

This is the package I bought:

https://www.obdinnovations.com/obd2-...tware-package/

I'm not an electrical engineer by any means, and I haven't done any research on the OBDII subject, but I suspect a cheap cable can be found (Ebay) given your hardware requirements are met for our specific application (Nissan up to 2007 with 16pin?).

Slamrod

iTrader: (11)

NDS2 seems to always be a total b*tch to get to connect. Any time I use it, I have to mess with the com ports, etc etc. What works for me is to make sure my COM ports are correct, and then connect using OBD2 tab. Try this a couple of times, after a few it will connect if your settings are right. Once you get OBD2 to connect, try connecting ECM. For some reason, I can *never* get the ECM to connect to NDS2 unless I connect the OBD2 first. Its annoying how finicky it can be but in the end its totally worth the trouble.

User1

Conversely, I have never had an issue connecting. I use it frequently. I'd wager the culprit being incorrect drivers and settings for most connection issues.

Violator

I lucked out and got a manual ECM at the yard today, after switching it out with the other power to the k line with the ignition on was restored. I'm testing battery voltage between both power and grounds for the data link connector as well as the k line, still no dice even with the new concept z cable OR MY HYPER TOUGH scanner from Walmart. I haven't had the throttle control motor relay hooked up or the cluster, but I really don't see the relevance ESPECIALLY with the correct voltage between the powers/Kline and grounds

Im in the middle of removing the lower oil pan to redo the RTV.

User1

Use too much RTV? You sound like someone I know.... (me) At least you're only redoing the lower pan. I removed and redid upper AND lower. PIA

You have a a driver issue, I'd put money on it. Also, would it help to connect everything electrical then try again? Not sure if having stuff unplugged would cause an issue.

Violator

I doubt it's drivers, the hyper tough is a standalone OBD2 scanner. Something's off in the power supply for the ECU even though the wires for the data link (OBD2) connector have power including the K-line which is directly from the ECU meaning the ECU is supplying voltage to it, so part of my ECU is receiving power but not all of it? The FSM just points to EC-156 if having trouble connecting and I've been over it all, everything's connected. Starting to think it's a grounding issue, I thought if + from multimeter to +12v and - to ground tests as the correct 12v, then the ground is doing its job but maybe that's not the case. Or perhaps the ECU doesn't like the grounding on the battery itself?


As for the oil pan I looked at it a few days ago and it seemed to certainly be coming from the corner under the oil cooler, but then tonight it seemed like there was oil right under the oil cooler. I'll probably just pick up a new o-ring for the cooler tomorrow. I think I was running out of RTV at the time and not sure I used enough or followed the "hand tighten" first method. Oh well I got some ultra black to replace the ultra grey I used

User1

Hope you get the wiring figured out. That's really something I would have to be present for to be of any help, especially since you are splicing together a Frankenharness. I understand with the RTV now, your engine has fluids and is leaking. I replaced my oil cooler gasket as well but when my engine was out.

I had a bit of my own electrical issue tonight on the way to work. I keep my OBD dongle in the port 24/7 so I can immediately scan while driving if I need to. Car surged a bit at 65mph a few times. Pulled over, turn off, restart car, no issues kept driving. Threw a pending P0340 bank 1 cam sensor code. Pulled into a 7/11 to get soda right before my work destination and smelled a slight hint of something burning. Thought nothing of it and drove the last 10 minutes to work with no issue. Had 10 minutes more to think about it, thought to check bank one cam sensor and harness. Pulled in to work, popped the hood, immediate waft of burning plastic, shined flashlight between engine and firewall and lo and behold my cam sensor harness was laying across the manifold flange melting. Suspended it higher up and got it off the manifold. Should be able to get home without an issue and make a new harness tomorrow as it's the dark blue plug and the only sensor on it is the cam sensor.

Moral of the story as it relates to you is secure your wiring! With your retrofit you must have many more loose cables.

Violator

Actually it's just an 03 engine harness, then in the car I've got the data link, electric gas pedal, and NATs connectors along with the 3 connectors that plug into the engine harness. Then there's just about 20 wires that need to be manually connected. The only additional wiring under the hood is the connector for the fusebox since that remains 4th gen and the harness is 5.5gen, but for that I did it up with some heat shrink tubing to insulate the connections

Violator

Found my problem. Every wire off the ECM relay is getting .8v instead of battery voltage with the ignition turned on. Power comes from battery>fuse 57 (eng cont) under the hood>and out the other end of the ECM relay(EC-117 for 98). Visually inspected fuse, replaced relay(clicked before when turning the key and clicks now), no change. I'll be changing the fuse even though it looked good and then start tracing from the battery to the relay

I overlooked it bc my Kline has been getting battery voltage to begin with and I didn't wanna ruin my tidied up and heatshrinked wiring just to test wires I wouldn't of suspected this kinda issue with. Still think it's odd the Kline had 12v, think components in the ECU charged up enough to supply it, or that it was being powered from some other source like the IGNSW?

User1

You're gonna know this thing inside and out soon! So when is first start?

Violator

I was an amateur with FSMs and wiring diagrams when I first started this project now I know the EC and EL sections like the back of my hand

Oil pan is done but I didn't realize there's a 24 hour cure time so I'll be tracking down the ECM relay issue and waiting until before I go to work tomorrow to fire it up. I'll hook up the rest of the exhaust before then but hold off on getting the wheels on in case there's an issue with the flywheel/timing ring

User1

See ya tomorrow!

Violator

EDIT: I had previously unsoldered the start signal to ECM for more wiggle room with the m161 connector. Fixed, then I got codes p0335 p0340 p0345 and after looking at the diagram again I realized I had the signal and power wires for the cams switched. Now I've realized my fuel pump isn't even pressurizing the line and I'm troubleshooting that

My self shutoff wire between the relay and connector where its spliced over to the 03 harness was broken. It's the negative coil for the relay, so it was stopping the relay from activating and providing power to the other side of the relay for VB (ECM main power supply) and CRTN(ignition coil wire/current return). My ECCS/ECM relay is actually a brown dpst relay like on the 99, driver door sticker mfr date is 09/98. 98 relay on the other hand is just a spst relay

User1

Nice! Is purring like a kitten yet?

Violator

It's just been one thing after another. Spent forever trying to troubleshoot the fuel pump, theres a test for the relay in the FSM but I tried every relay in the car and they all failed that test, obviously that couldn't be right so I just went ahead and put in my wallbro pump. Still no dice. Finally I thought it had to be NATs but then all of a sudden I couldn't connect anymore. So I start plugging in all the blue relays back into the passenger side and on the last one for the AC, gas shot up in the air??? all over my throttle body bc I had the line disconnected. The sound of the wallbro priming up when I turn the key is like sweet thunder

The cams/crank codes seem to still be present. Need to go over everything again or I might just get nisformance inverters and ditch the Homebrew idea.

EDIT: apparently the CPS, TPS, and IGNSW all go to the ECM and then the AC/Relay. Imagine that. 1999 EC-24. Furthermore I don't have the AC Relay - coil wire hooked up bc my ac lines aren't hooked up

User1

Getting close! No need to plug in the compressor. It's a big job, what you're doing. Victory is near!

Violator

The compressor might not be necessary but the AC Relay is and the - coil of a relay is what completes the circuit and activates the relay which I didn't have wired up, now when I turn the key I get another relay click.

I caved and ordered nisformance inverters. A lot more durability and I just don't want the extra down time troubleshooting or trying to find a more suitable inverters

User1

Not a bad idea. I'm running them too. They were only like, $60 a piece last time I checked. So probably a few days shipping, think you'll have everything else squared away and ready to start by the time they show up?

Violator

That I know of I've done everything to be able to start it.

I'm ready to put my ****in head through a wall over nats though. I've been doing the escape lock mode procedure and trying to reprogram the key and the fuel pump still seems to be disabled AGAIN since last night. I'm gonna try and cop a new immobilizer unit. I've got 2 4th gen keys and a brand new OEM key listed for the 02/03 as well as other years and that's what I was using to program last night. I got other **** to worry about I don't need this bull****

User1

I feel your pain. I'd rather wire up a race car from scratch than trace down electrical issues. Wish I could help more, but you're way past anything I've experienced with my swap. You said you've been reprogramming the key, does that mean you sorted out your NDSII connection problem?

Violator

Broken ssoff wire wasn't giving the signal to activate the relay for the ECM. The wire was native to the car and I just had to connect it to my engine harness. somehow I musta broke it bc there wasn't continuity between each side. cut myself a new piece of wire and walaah

User1

Oh that's right. My bad. Well just keep ticking the boxes! I'm rooting for ya! I want your reaction to the first ride!

Violator

It's so nice to hear the fuel pump again. The brown power wire from fuse 17 broke??? Ran a new wire, voltage was back. Reprogrammed nats to the same new key I got and walaah. Fuel pump kicked on.

These wires are being silly, like c'mon I barely touched you

I did discover the rear coilpacks #1 and #3 were switched yesterday, coincidentally I read a warning from someone about it yesterday in the 5.7 swap Facebook group. The engine shakes much more violently when trying to start now

User1

Stop breaking wires!

User1

Makes no difference which cylinder the coil packs are on.

Violator

Not the coil packs themselves, but the connectors were switched. And this wire spontaneously combust led unless my foot caught the relay I didn't tuck back where it belongs and dragged it hard enough to break the wire

User1

Harness connectors, gotcha. Yeah those tend to be important

Violator

Update nisformance inverters on, cam codes gone. P0335 crank code still present. Voltage is there, I'm gonna assume it's the signal plate. I'd like to use AC current or a "demagnetizer" to "randomize the domains" aka demagnetize the signal plate

User1

You have all these codes without it running? New $40 dollar crank sensor took care of my P0335 code I had at first start. AutoZone. Still on my list to replace with OEM.

Violator

Yeah engine tries turning over ECU is looking for a signal within certain parameters and obviously without the inverters on the cams it was way outside of those parameters and for the crank it's the same thing if some of the teeth are magnetized the magnetic crank sensor isn't getting a good signal from the plate. What i got this car after it hadn't ran in two years because it "needed a new ECU/tune to fix the A/F ratio" (actually just vacuum leaks out the ***) and a missing crank sensor. Redid all the rubber hosing and then after spending a day trying to get it to fire up I realized there wasn't a crank sensor. Fired right up when I put one in

User1

Gotcha. So at this point, you are 100% ready to run but the signal wheel is giving you problems and therefore won't allow the engine to run?