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so, maxy is running ok, other than the stalling at start up and code p0443 she'll get me where i need to go. i have an 07 sonata se with 90,000 miles on her and the engine went low on oil ( 3 quarts ) and i started having a rod-knock last wensday and now the engine is toast. found a shop called christian brothers, big chain garage, super nice and clean front waiting area, told me 4,500.00 for a used engine with 64,000 on it ( it's a v6 3.3 ) and they offer a 24,000 2 year warranty with that as well as all new fluids with bg oil treatment, trans drain and fill, all new gaskets, new plugs. i really want to do this, but my old man said i should look for a newer car with a warranty and either lease or finace it. i'm torn, the trans still feels solid, it was my brothers car and he passed away 4 and a half years ago and i just spent 2,500 on body work and paint last june after being hit by a truck. i got it for 2,500 back in april 2015 and i'm into the car all said and done ( body is perfect, no rust ) if you add this 4,500 for right around 10,000. would you buy another car or take a chance with a used block and pray nothing else breaks. just did a new y-pipe, thermostat, upper rad hose, and plugs. thanks
Last edited by max ride 41; 08-14-2019 at 12:19 AM.
Bluebook value of the car is not worth $4500 even with so few miles. Retail with a running motor it's worth $2000-$3000 at most. Trade in with a running motor it's only worth $1500 on the high end. It's not a wise investment to put $4500+into a car worth 1/3 that cost after the work. That said, what is the car worth to you as far as a daily driver, and where do you draw the line at money pit? The bottom line is anything you put into this car now is going down the drain. If it was me I'd just junk it, as not running it's going to be more headache to try to trade it in.
As @MadMax07SL said that $4500 is double what the car is worth, which is a bad idea if you plan to sell it in the next year or so, or if you end up in an accident totaling the car and you only get $2000-3000 for it. That said, if you're willing to drive this car into the ground then maybe the $4500 is ok.
The question I would go with is: Is there a $4000 car that you would like better than this one (let's assume someone would take the old one off your hands for $500). If so buy that instead.
From what I know, Hyundai's have interference engines. So, if your timing belt goes, you could be double screwed. I just couldn't put that kind of money into a Hyundai. I wouldn't lease, either.
As @MadMax07SL said that $4500 is double what the car is worth, which is a bad idea if you plan to sell it in the next year or so, or if you end up in an accident totaling the car and you only get $2000-3000 for it. That said, if you're willing to drive this car into the ground then maybe the $4500 is ok.
The question I would go with is: Is there a $4000 car that you would like better than this one (let's assume someone would take the old one off your hands for $500). If so buy that instead.
nope, i looked for the last week. nothing worth buying under 10,000. i did find a chevy impala ltz with 102,000 on it for 6,900.00 2008, 1 year warranty. and the dealer is offering me 500.00 on my trade, what do you think about that car? pretty clean 1 owner car, but the car resided in ocean city nj for the last few years, may have rust that i can't see.
Last edited by max ride 41; 08-14-2019 at 06:36 PM.
Have you shopped around? Christian brothers is a fancy shop and charge quite a bit. If you can find someone to do it for 2000-3000, I'd say go for it if you plan to drive it for 5ish years if not more. Thing is some newer cars are not built well and these late 90 nissans were built well before Renault took over in 2001. Nissan is crap nowadays compared to what they used to be. Look at all the recent recalls that have been happening.
Pick who you decide to choose...Avg car costs in America is $6000-8500+ a year, this is newer cars... So if cars paid off, cheap insurance and repair last you 5 years for 2000-3000, you got your money worth. Yes, it is a risk, if you get into an accident next week after the repair... Ya it's a total loss, but again...It's still on the road after 2 decades right? When you buy another used car, its a risk too and may need maintenance based on previous care of it. It's all risk....
also how did this happen? you seem to care about your cars? why did this "newer" car burn so much at a low mileage?
it was actually owned by my sister in-law who had a valve cover leak and had parked it for over a year and didn't drive it. got it in 2015 with 51,000 and with what i thought was a valve tap at start up, but might have been an obstruction of the oil that gradually got worse and led to the oil burning up. plus, she changed it to synthetic for some reason a few years ago and i think that possibly made it worse. i'm against the wall on this as i know that this car isn't worth the money but i know the history of the vehicle and i really don't want a car payment. and a 2 year 24,000 warranty on the engine isn't bad. trans felt fine when this started, but i know what a replacement one would cost. o, and josh, i've spent hours looking at cars on the internet and driving around to dealers and comparing. what they're asking for some of these cars is ridiculous, just seems like all they want to do is put you up the river with payments and the warranty's aren't even offered unless you get a certified pre-owned, otherwise you pay through the teeth for one.
Last edited by max ride 41; 08-15-2019 at 03:56 AM.
Now if your car was rusting away, body was in horrible shape and had super high mileage.. Then yah it may be time to scrape it. But I know you like yours and is in great shape. It's only up to you if you want to keep this car or not. You will probably never find another one condition wise again if you decide to get rid of it.
Besides, there are many cool cars out there too! Look at some 240sx. Many people are getting into them and have similar engines. The 97 body lines are my favorites!! Plan to get one soon but again I love the 4th gen maxima too.
Engines do not cost that much. Get a buddy with the know how and some beers and swap it out. Id do this vs having to get a new car honestly. But to each their own. Those Sonatas are pretty good cars either way. And you have some sentimental value being it was your deceased brothers cars. I do understand that completely. I Have swapped 3 engines me and my buddy in the past. Its a good time for learning.
so, i found another shop to do the job for 2,700.00, had the car since last Wednesday and said it would be ready by this Wednesday. we,ll see, got a 20,000 mile 1 and a half year warranty and a 76,000 used motor to go in. crossing my fingers that this guy isn't a f-up and does the job right. trust me, if it has one little issue, he'll be keeping it and getting me a loaner/rental car. thank god i have the maxima as a back up, will be keeping her probably forever as i've already had her 14 and a half years and she has outlasted my stanza and my chevy.
Last edited by max ride 41; 08-27-2019 at 01:31 AM.
Fair price for putting an engine in with the warranty and a 76k mile engine. Can't wait to see what happens. Are they replacing the seals as well? Rear main seals, valve covers, any new hoses? Etc...might as well do it while it's out. New fluids? Clean up the engine bay?
Fair price for putting an engine in with the warranty and a 76k mile engine. Can't wait to see what happens. Are they replacing the seals as well? Rear main seals, valve covers, any new hoses? Etc...might as well do it while it's out. New fluids? Clean up the engine bay?
rear main seals i doubt, everything else, yes, and then some. all new fluids, oem only!!! it's supposed to be done tomorrow or thursday, i will have to wait until friday because i'll be working all day thursday if it's not ready tomorrow.
should be getting it back tomorrow morning, i hope this guy listened to me when i said "oem fluids only" edit: he did do oem fluids as i requested, waiting for him to pick me up to get the car, wish me luck!!
Last edited by max ride 41; 08-29-2019 at 07:58 AM.
so, got the sonata back yesterday morningish, he was recharging the ac as a thank you. drove off and the 1st thing i noticed was the idle was a little low, no biggie. then, i drive him to work and let it sit for a few hours and proceeded to start and wammo!!!! timing chain rattle after starting and it quieted down after 3-4 seconds and drove home nice and quiet. sigh, same rattle i had with the original motor and is apparently common with the v6 3.3's. dammit, i called the garage back and he's looking into doing the chain to it which would be sweet. buuuut, i'm not holding my breath as that's a 13 hour job and unless he can get the money back from the yard where the block came from i'm not sure what he'll do, but that's what the warranty's for. car seems to be running good otherwise.
you guys aren't going to believe this. i went looking for a dipstick to check the oil, AND THERE WASN'T ONE!!! i looked at my old motor and remembered that it should be in the front where they usually are, and i couldn't find it. so, this guy informs me that he is going to do the timing chain, so i asked him where the hell it was. of course he beat around the question and said to drop it off to which i said, what am i going to drive? no response, so i said i need back no later than tuesday morning cause the max is going in the body shop wensday. fuking unbelievable
I just saw you complaining about this one in the other thread, Did you get this all sorted out or where there more issues?
please, this asswipe so truly f'ed up the engine install that i had to take it to 2 different shops to get it sorted out. i had a p0018 code, which was cam and timing, replaced both cam sensors, code and c/e light wouldn't go away so i found an actual honest dealer to fix the issue. ( let's hope) which was a wire harness and an ocv solenoid that were making sonny run rough, they replaced it after screwing up on the time to do the job, but the service guy was cool and said "i set the price, i'm not going to charge for the extra time" otherwise i could've paid upwards of 850.00-900.00 for the work and parts. when the tech who was doing the work started tearing apart the engine to get to the solenoid, he said there was about 8 to 10 screws missing off the engine and said that there just enough to hold the engine together. not surprised, these people at the dealership nicely put them all back at no charge because of all the problems i told them i had. road tested the car and drove it for several miles to cycle the engine as well as giving me a new car for 2 days while they finished it up. they said the c/e light was gone and sonny was running smooth again with no hiccups. best dealership i have ever been to, piazza hyundai of west chester pa., best experience i have ever had at a dealership, ever. i still have to get it inspected, and the front axles both have to get done, otherwise she's back to running like before, my final bill was under 500.00 and i know these guys did me right, the tech and service manager were straight with me and took care of my car, i hope she runs for another 5 years, was my brothers car and he's not around anymore so i'm glad i got it mostly sorted out.
great to hear you got it worked out again, was that sketchy engine shop a first experience? was there anything in hindsight that could have warned you from that place?
great to hear you got it worked out again, was that sketchy engine shop a first experience? was there anything in hindsight that could have warned you from that place?
yeah, it was in norristown to begin with, number 2 it was a crappy looking little garage that i should've avoided like the plague. got it back today and she ran great on the highway, but still has a timing issue which was a lot better ( or so i thought ) until i got almost all the way home and then the f'ing c/e light came back on. stopped in a parking lot and pulled out the scanner, same code, p0018. cleared the code and started the car 2,3 times and so far, no c/e light. but i'm sure it's tensioners, or chained hopped a tooth or is streched or just a pos engine that was $hit to begin with. fuking so sick of this $hit i could puke, don't know the mileage, the a$$hole won't work on the car, answer his phone, respond to texts, he's a total piece of $hit that needs his head caved in with a crowbar.
Did they at least have a warranty on the work? If they replaced the engine and it's not running properly. It is their job to do it right. If they're refusing to, that can be considered fraud.. They're refusing to because it is a lot of labor involved, and that can cost the shop money. But that's their fault by not doing it right the first time to avoid that from happening. Now If it was some kind of sketchy low end shop that did the work that provides no warranty...you might be out of luck on that.
So going back to my first post, I was right, you should have just traded it in... {/ducks the crowbar swing and runs out of the building}
lol, yeah, yeah, i'll admit it was a mistake but they weren't offering me jack for the car and i spent a lot on body work and paint and i called hyundai of america and started a case because of what all that's happened with my first engine and now this one. i also ran into a kid that his uncle is a long time tech for hyundai, and now works at guess where? same place i just had my car at, life works in mysterious ways sometimes. maybe i can get this guy to do the timing chains and tensioners for a great price, and hyundai pays me to get it done, and then maybe the water fountains will start oozing out ipa's.........
Last edited by max ride 41; 10-18-2019 at 12:52 AM.
Did they at least have a warranty on the work? If they replaced the engine and it's not running properly. It is their job to do it right. If they're refusing to, that can be considered fraud.. They're refusing to because it is a lot of labor involved, and that can cost the shop money. But that's their fault by not doing it right the first time to avoid that from happening. Now If it was some kind of sketchy low end shop that did the work that provides no warranty...you might be out of luck on that.
would anybody mind if i slapped captain obvious here in the head? not even gonna respond to this one josh, you must not have read the thread from the start.......
not really, looking at buying another car depending on what hyundai says.would love to keep the sonata being as that it was my late brother jay's car. i'll keep you guys posted.
so, update. i picked up a 2017 hyundai elantra se with 19,885 miles on her. got her for 14,500 paid for out the door. certified pre-owned which means i get 6 years 60,000 on electrical and maintenance and 100,000 on power train. cars a little tight fit for me, but i'll get used to it. pic
To note, that certified warranty only covers you from the day the car went into service at 5/60,000 plus 10/100,000. So if the car went into service say Feb 2017, you only have just over 2 years left on the primary warranty, and just over 7 years on power-train. If she went into service late 2016 you may already be under 2 years remaining. Who told you it was 6 BTW? The Hyundai certified in reality is only an extension of the powertrain, since if you bought it used, the primary warranty would still be there regardless, but the PT is not transferable unless Certified.
To note, that certified warranty only covers you from the day the car went into service at 5/60,000 plus 10/100,000. So if the car went into service say Feb 2017, you only have just over 2 years left on the primary warranty, and just over 7 years on power-train. If she went into service late 2016 you may already be under 2 years remaining. Who told you it was 6 BTW? The Hyundai certified in reality is only an extension of the powertrain, since if you bought it used, the primary warranty would still be there regardless, but the PT is not transferable unless Certified.
it is certified pre-owned as stated. went into service 5/2016, so 40,000 miles left or the remaining 2 and a half years as you stated. i have the remaining balance of the 100,000, which is 80,000, or 6 and a half years. i'm fine with as i'll probably trade up to another sonata in 2022. maybe.... ps, also, the warranty is better than most used cars i looked at where you have to pay 1,100.00 a year plus tax which my sister did plus gap insurance of an additional 40.00 a month. f that.
Last edited by max ride 41; 11-07-2019 at 07:20 PM.
Norristown corner garage oh my !! sorry to hear of your temporary lack of judgement ! lol , water under the bridge now, and oh wow ! so you moved on ?? good luck with it ! not my fave blue, nothing compares to the blue color on your max!
08-14-2019, 12:08 AM
) and i started having a rod-knock last wensday and now the engine is toast. found a shop called christian brothers, big chain garage, super nice and clean front waiting area, told me 4,500.00 for a used engine with 64,000 on it ( it's a v6 3.3 ) and they offer a 24,000 2 year warranty with that as well as all new fluids with bg oil treatment, trans drain and fill, all new gaskets, new plugs. i really want to do this, but my old man said i should look for a newer car with a warranty and either lease or finace it. i'm torn, the trans still feels solid, it was my brothers car and he passed away 4 and a half years ago and i just spent 2,500 on body work and paint last june after being hit by a truck. i got it for 2,500 back in april 2015 and i'm into the car all said and done ( body is perfect, no rust ) if you add this 4,500 for right around 10,000. would you buy another car or take a chance with a used block and pray nothing else breaks. just did a new y-pipe, thermostat, upper rad hose, and plugs. thanks
stopped in a parking lot and pulled out the scanner, same code, p0018. cleared the code and started the car 2,3 times and so far, no c/e light. but i'm sure it's tensioners, or chained hopped a tooth or is streched or just a pos engine that was $hit to begin with. fuking so sick of this $hit i could puke, don't know the mileage, the a$$hole won't work on the car, answer his phone, respond to texts, he's a total piece of $hit that needs his head caved in with a crowbar. 
