Figure like this...
$400 5177 kit
$120 High Flow Walbro Fuel Pump
$70 Autometer Fuel pressure gauge
$230 Apexi electronic EGT Gauge (Autometer is much less $$)
$40 Window switch
$50 A/F Gauge
$20 Autometer Gauge Pod
$120 NOS Bottle Heater
$100 for misc items like jets, wire etc..

if i go more than 70 shot, i need a new fuel pump. Dry is reccommended by most because of the long intake runners and arent meant to move gas so there would be an unequal distribution of gas/nitrous which could cause problems. What if i went to a 100 shot?
reccommended kits are the NOS(5123) and zex, NX only comes in wet. I have to get colder plugs or gap them more.
A window switch is very needed and does not come with the kits and costs around 40 dollars. I have 115K so i should do a compression test to see if i can even get Nitrous, if the car runs fine, shouldnt i be ok? can i negate any of that list? ie Bottle heater, reccomended for track use, and the misc. items and the fuel pump if i stay low. How cheaply can i start out? I want to try and stay around 600 dollars.

I did a search, arent you proud?

 

You also might want a JWT ECU upgrade with nos parameters programed in.

 

i thought that it was not reccomended that you get the chip also, so that is why i ask if the one you refer to is different.

 

Well for now if you wanted to cut out some costs then plenty of people who start with a 50 shot dont need the gauges or pods or the upgraded pump. That will save you almost 200 right there.

SuDZ

 

Good list. That's basically everything that I'm doing.

I'd stick with the Autometer EGT, 'cause you really don't need the Apexi one. Also you don't HAVE to have both an EGT and A/F guage...they are basically telling your the same thing. Stick with an EGT.

 

is that really safe, or would i want to invest in those a few weeks down the road?

 

Get the guages. You're not going to stick with a 50 shot...and even if you did, don't you want to know if something goes wrong ASAP?

Sudz is right, you don't need them, but I think they'll be worth the money.

 

i hear wet, and i hear dry. mostly i hear dry but thats because most people have that. Is wet better EVER at ANY TIME for our cars? That would clear up a lot.

A bottle heater just keeps the NO2 in the bottle an equal temperature correct? How important is this, what are the side effects of not using.

 

Wet can be more powerful, but is more expensive.

They are both safe if you do it correctly.

If you don't use a heater, you will loose power if the bottle cools. Not bad, just not the best possiable performance.

 

if you have a 5 speed then keep some money saved for when you need a new clutch.

 

i have been thinking about that... how hard is a clutch install. wanna keep my "ive done everything to my car myslef" streak alive.

 

Is NO2 and the need for a new clutch usually that close togther? I mean you can get by on your stock one for a while right?

SuDZ

 

www.motorvate.ca

With the right tools and time, its not un-doable for a novice. I would get the help of someone who's done it before though.

 

It was just a siggestion since he was looking to save a few bucks. But really like it was said most people are only content with a 50 shot for so long. Then they look for bigger setups.

SuDZ

 

With a smaller shot, yes. A 100(+) shot will wear a stock clutch very quickly. It may last a few weeks, few months, or just a few minutes.

 

yah, i am trying... anybody? i am fairly mechanically inclined, and after seeing the last work a mechanic did to my car, i wont do that again.

 

And what has the luck been with aftermarket ones compared to the same 100 shot abuse?

SuDZ

 

ZEX is only a dry system NOT wet, as stated earlier. I know because I have it installed on my 81 280zx.

Jason92se

 

you are right, i corrected it.

 

Forget the EGT and A/F ratio gauge. Get a nitrous pressure gauge.

 

The ACT clutch can hold more power than our cars will ever make.

 

You really think that's a good idea?

He won't know if he starts getting too lean...and then...boom.

 

Someone said the EGT and the FP guages do basically the same thing, so one would suffice, NOS pressure guage, that measures from within the bottle... would i need this, or doesnt the bottle already have a built in safety device to prevent explosion. I guess what i am saying is how are the NOS pressure guage and the other 2 related?

I am not really trying to do this cheaply, but moreover in a one step at a time.

It looks like my first step is going to be the NOS 5123(?) and a window and an EGT gauge.

Next step is new fuel pump, bump to 70 shot and all appropriate gauges, and a bottle heater.

Final step...

does all this sound appropriate?

 

FP and EGT guages aren't really the same thing. EGT measures the temperature of your exhaust, while FP measures your fuel pressure. While its true that your EGT's will rise if your FP becomes too low, that's not the only reason.

I really think you'll need them both.

Yes, NOS bottles have a saftey device built in. The NOS pressure guage is more so you know when you are at a good pressure for spraying...which is controled by the bottle temperature.

 

The two must have gauges are nitrous pressure and fuel pressure. Normal nitrous pressure and normal fuel pressure = a happy motor.

Too high nitrous = lean.
Too low fuel pressure = lean.

 

Thats what I thought but was just double checking.

SuDZ

 

Hey guys , im finally back on the .org, im srue you all missed me , hehe . anyways . I want to get nos soon also , how big of a shot can i safely go with a dry kit ? i have around 700 to spend. in priority order, what should i do? i want to eventually have 100 shot of nitrous running.

 

Proper bottle operating pressure is between 800-1200 psi. The bottle heater helps maintain proper bottle pressure of at least 800 psi. The heater is thermostatically controlled, but you need a gauge to ensure the pressure remains in the working pressure range. Pressure too low? Turn on the bottle heater. Pressure high enough? Turn off the bottle heater. Make sure you wire the heater so that when the car ignition is OFF, the bottle heater does *not* receive power!

The fuel pressure gauge and the EGT gauge both help you diagnose if your car is running lean under N2O boost. These gauges are fairly important, so I'd put both of them in a pod on your A-pillar so you can easily monitor them. If something looks bad, get your foot out of the "go" pedal NOW!

The A/F meter you mention will only provide a light show, as it is pretty much useless. It uses a stock O2 sensor to "read" the A/F ratio. Unfortunately, the stock O2 sensor is not accurate enough nor fast enough to provide a decent reading. In fact, you would have to spend hundreds of dollars on an accurate gauge equipped with its own broadband sensor to get a useful indication of the A/F ratio. I think the GReddy A/F meter runs about $350, for example... but the sky is the limit when it comes to electronic gauges.

FYI, I think about the safest N2O install you can get includes an ECU and a nitrous control module from Jim Wolf Technologies. It's a 65-HP dry shot regulated by the ECU/NCM. Good luck.

 

over 100 shot you've reached the limit of the stock injectors.

6th paragraph
http://www.seas.ucla.edu/~cheston/nosxplained.html

 

362ft-lbs
http://www.advancedclutch.com/v3/app...ail.asp?ID=776

see sig

 

what clutch are you using ?

 

what is the biggest shot i can run in a dry kit ? is a 75-80 safe ?

 

thomas has the ACT clutch..

you don't really need a NOS pressure gauge if you have a bottle heater.. if you can't spray no more.. it means that hte bottle is empty...

 

you can run 100 shot dry. What do you mean by safe? Everything is safe as long as you don't watch too much of the F&F and think that N2O is like that.

 

For tuning purposes it is best to have FP, EGT, and a Nitrous pressure guage. Why? When You know roughly how much psi of fuel you need to be running for a given shot, say 85psi for a 100 shot, you can verify you are at the correct psi. But lets say your EGT's are only reading 780c (rich) at the end of the 1/4mile, so you reduce your fuel pressure to 82psi and get it up to 820c by the end of the 1/4 mile.
How is fuel pressure raised in a dry kit? By nitrous pressure! If you don't have correct nitrous pressure (950psi ideal) then you are not going to get the correct fuel pressure, and you are not going to flow the correct amount of nitrous. A .047 jet at 950psi= 100 shot, a .047 jet at 1200psi= almost 120 shot! If you don't have an EGT, you are going to cook your motor!

If you have a 4th gen Max, get a dry kit. Can you use a wet kit? Yes, but it is not reccommended for cars with long intake runners, the Maxima has long intake runners.

Any shot is safe with the proper upgrades.

To run a 100 shot takes time. You NEED to start out with a 50 shot and learn the basics of N20 before going higher. What may produce a little bit of detonation with a 50 shot will DESTROY your motor on a 100 shot.

DOn't be greedy, take your time and enjoy NOS...

 

Gauges are not to make any "kit" better or worse. The gauges are used for monitoring the car during use of said "kit". If you want to run 50 or 150 shot, has nothing to do with the gauges. Personally, I would not run anything over 50 w/o the gauges for the simple reason that some damage can be prevented or minimized if you monitor your gauges correctly and religiously, but that's just me. If you want to run all the juice in the world w/o having the advantage of knowing or having at least an idea of what else is going on, then more power to you.