im going with a dry ZEX kit. i know i have to get the walbro fuel pump to run a dry show , but with it , will i need a new Fuel pressure regulator ? or will my stocker be ok ? thanks

 

Which kit are you getting? What jet are you using? BTW, depending on how crazy you go, you may not need a new pump. Walbro makes a great pump, but may not be needed right away.

 

im gonna start out with a 55-65 shot. then later ill up it to 75-80. Im not going to be using the juice all the time, its basically just going to be there for if i need it. For racing Mustang Cobras and such.

 

You don't need a new fuel pump to run a 65 shot. You may not "need" it up to an 80 shot, if your pump is working good. You may have to have it @80 and above if your pump is not up to snuff. As for an adjustable regulator, once you get the pump you should get a better regulator as well because of the tuning capabilities. What you should really do is either ask someone who has N2O or do the research about what is really necessary and what is smoke and mirrors. There are a lot of people here running N2O who would be willing to help you out. That's what I did before buying and installing mine.

 

Thanks, ive been asking around on here for a long time now (this is like my 9th name due to problems with e mail addresses) and on PA-maximas.com . Thanks for the help. Im still researching and finding out better things to do , and also finding out what i dont need. I heard the Purge kit is just a waste of money, so thats out. But im probably still gonna go with a remote bottle opener, just for convenience. Fuel presure and Nitrous presure are 2 guages im definitely gonna go with. ill probably go A/F with the fuel pressure just to make it look nice (Single guage pod isnt my favorite look), since the Nitrous presure guage goes on the bottle (im fairly sure, but could have been mislead ?)

 

FP is good, A/F is not so good. The gauge is not as accurate and to be accurate requires a lot of extra stuff. Go with an EGT gauge for your second one. It's easier to install and tells you the same thing. Be careful where you order the gauges from because there are parts that sometimes do not come in the "gauge kit" that you need. The N2O pressure gauge goes inline with the bottle and stays out back.

 

gotcha . Ill do the EGT instead of the A/F ... another question
could i use a ZEX bottle heater on a NOS bottle ? if the bottles are the same size and all. what difference does it really make ?

 

Yes you can use the heater on any brand of bottle. I thought you were getting a ZEX kit? With a NOS bottle? Be sure and get the heater with a thermostat or auto shut off, I've read about people leaving the heater on and going poof.

 

i was gonna get zex , but i heard the install is dificult, but i have a good price on a bottle heater ($30) by zex , and a pressure guage by zex (around 35 i think).

 

That's an awesome price for a heater. Are you sure it comes as a kit and not just the heat element? Make sure you have the whole thing. If you opt to go with NOS, get the 5124 kit. That's the one I have and it comes complete (you're still going to have to do some HomeDepot runs for some custom engineering parts) and it's not that difficult to install. My suggestion is get a couple of helpers, block out an entire day (preferably early start to use good light), and take your time in installing everything neat and tidy; and you'll be glad you did when you don't have to go back and diagnose problems.

 

yeah , i plan on having a few people to do it with me. the heater was an entire heater , it was used , but since its just a heater , how used can it be ?

 

If you really want the Walborro pump, go to www.autoperformanceengineering.com they have the best price. $118 shipped.

 

thanks

do you guys know a good place to get a 300z clutch disc other than nissan by any chance ? After my clutch dies (which would probably be pretty soon im assuming) im gonna go the ACT Presure plate and 300z disc. which throw out bearing should i use , stock > or get an ACT , or what ?

 

Get a fuel pressure gauge first and see if your stock fuel pump can handle the added fuel requirements for whatever nitrous shot you are running. Don't automatically assume that your stock pump can handle the smaller shots. I started off with a 50shot and my stock pump (80K miles) couldn't go above 50psi (general guideline for 50shot is around 60psi), let alone hold the pressure steadily. (I've since installed a Walbro and have no probs.) On the other hand, other people's stock pumps were just fine for the smaller shots. It all depends on the condition of your stock pump....

 

mine has 61k on it, and i just got it (used obviously). its spotless.. are you saying i should get the F/P guage before getting any of the nitrous stuff ?

 

How do you know it's in great condition? Mine worked PERFECTLY off-the-bottle but it couldn't even handle the 50shot. Get the fuel pressure gauge when you get your nitrous stuff. Even if your stock fuel pump can handle it, there may be a time when one of the vacuum lines may accidentally pop off and then you'd be spraying nitrous running way lean and that's BAD.

 

What I did was installed my gauges BEFORE doing the N2O to see what "normal" readings were. After the N2O, I compared the readings and now know how my car is running on and off the juice. Personally, my car is running a on the rich side, but I'm leaving it there for now since it safeguards me on the engine side but leaves me a little short on the HP side. For now, I'll sacrifice the HP for a little safety. I'm going to fine tune mine, once I have a chance to run it at the track a few times as is, then tune.

 

i think im probably going to instal the guages first now too , since they are basically very easy to instal it seems , from what people tell me. Im going to set up the EGT, and the Fuel pressure.

 

Be sure and take your time when installing. The gauges and connections are not brain surgery to do, but if you do a sloppy job, eventually they will malfunction. When I installed my EGT, I took the gauge parts and went to my local muffler shop. I told the guy to weld the "base adapter" (i think that's what it's called) of the probe to the pipe. He did and charged me like $20. I just drove home and let it cool down a bit, stuck the probe in, tightened it up and ran my stuff to the gauge. I didn't go out and find a tap or anything like that because it was much easier to let the muffler shop weld it on the pipe (all they did was cut a small hole with the torch and weld the base piece thing on top of that). Now on the FP gauge, get ready for some engineering. You will have to go and buy a "T", cut the fuel line right past the fuel filter and adapt the "sender" that comes with the gauge to make it work correctly. Be sure and not make sloppy connections here because this is going to be out in the open (relatively) after it's all said and done. I loomed all my electrical stuff so it would look cleaner. If you need any help, let me know, It's still very fresh in my mind.

 

Thanks a lot , ill be sure to ask if i have any problems . I think i might try and get some people to help me on the install , so im sure that a few of us can get it right .

 

I'm going with electrical Ultra-Lite gauges from Autometer: An FP gauge and an EGT gauge in a dual pod on the A-pillar, and a N2O pressure gauge in my center console with the N2O system switches. Question: Where is the optimal install location for the EGT probe? Please advise soonest! Thank you.

 

Bullseye , where are you getting your guages from ? and where in your center console are you gonna mount the others ? im gonna put my NOS pressure in my cig lighter since i wont need to look at it all to often.

 

I ordered my gauges from Summit Racing. Are you familiar with them? They seem to be a substantial company with a HUGE catalog. I ordered them yesterday, and I expect to receive them all tomorrow via FedEx, except for the N2O pressure gauge, which will not be available until later this month. (I paid an additional $9 for FedEx delivery.)

I'm putting the EGT gauge and the fuel pressure gauge in the dual pod on the A-pillar. That's probably going to be the easy part.

I plan to mount a panel inside my console (under the lid) to hold the N2O gauge, flanked by the bottle warmer switch, remote bottle control switch, nitrous system arming switch, and the purge button. I have no precise idea how I'm going to do it at this writing, but an idea is starting to gel: Maybe a 1/8" thick piece of aluminum sheet metal or 1/4" clear acrylic, drilled and cut to order, secured in place with brackets and SS screws...?

 

That might be a real pain. Don't foget you need to run the nitrous line to the gauge...and there is not much room behind the lighter.

Erik

 

yeah , i forgot about that. Maybe ill put it somewhere else.

 

Just a thought, but have you guys thought about putting the switches where your little change holders are in front of the center armrest? Erik brings up a good point, remember when mounting anything that there is always going to be either wires or worse (thick lines) behind it. So you have to allow enough room for that. I mounted all three of my switches in the change holders. I took them out (they pop out individually) and drilled a small hole in the middle; making it slightly bigger and bigger until my switches fit very snug and didn't even need the tightening nuts to stay firmly in place. I mounted three switches that way. They are out of the way and within easy reach. The hard part was running the cable to the underside of the console. I took out the back seat and ran the cable under the carpet and pulled up the console slightly to run everything thru. Just a thought.

 

From what I've read, there are two main schools of thought on this subject (but search to be sure). One place is in the front cylinder bank manifold in front of the #5 cylinder which tends to run the leanest. The second is right after both manifolds meet, just before the catalytic conv. Personally, that's what I opted to do since for me it was a lot easier to mount there and I felt the readings would be about as accurate as the latter. I took mine to a muffler shop and had them "blow" a small hole on the pipe (instead of tapping which i felt would probably eventually work itself loose or even worse, I wouldn't be able to tap straight and then be left with a hole I couldn't use) and then weld the "base" of the probe mount to the pipe right on top of the hole. I then drove home and finished the install myself.

 

Hey bullseye, that's exactly how I have my nitrous switches set up right now. Nitrous gauge, key switch for system activation, remote bottle opener toggle switch, bottle heater switch, and a corded push button switch. Everything's there, but it's a mess - wires hanging everywhere, etc..hehe I have yet to build some sort of mount/bracket for them, perhaps we can share some ideas?

 

i have heated seats, so i can only use one of the little change holders .... any other ideas ?

 

ic...well, I have seen pics (some even on the .org) of people actually drilling and mounting them on the console itself. Personally, I would probably opt to go with the mounting inside the center armrest, or If you want them to be seen, you could mount them on the overhead light above the rear view mirror. That mounting is going to be a lot trickier because you will have to run wires all the way around the window frame and if you don't tuck them good it will look like crap. Do you not have any empty spots to either side of the steering wheel? I had 2 before putting on my glow gauges. I think if I'm not mistaken that there are 2 or 3 empty spots on the dash to either side of the wheel that you could use for the switches. One final idea, I have seen on ebay a three switch "console" (3 switches side by side on the same holder), but even with that you still have to find a place to mount. It would possibly be cleaner having all three next to each other. Just a thought.

 

Good info guys I have decided to change my install now after reading all the above. I have a Walbro and Sard FPR to install with the 5124 kit but first thing I am going to do is install the Fuel Pressure Gauge just to see what the stock pressure is and go from there. Good to know you starting point for real vs just reading about it ie 38-43 idle vs WOT. I have presently about 7 jets and want to eventually go up to a 100 shot but want to do it slowly and monitor the results of each step. I like the engine so far in one piece and want to keep it that way. I also have a UDP, CAI and going to put on the Budget F Pipe and catback as soon as they are available, supposedly in a couple of weeks acording to Jeff. I think this is gonna be fun.

 

I know there is at least one empty spot on the right side of my steering wheel. Maybe i will Run the arming switch to the little slot , and the bottle opener into the empty spot on the right side of the wheel

 

Well I got the NOS kit 5124, I am running the 60 shot with no problem. I have the a/f ratio meter and no im wishing i didnt cause an egt would have been much better i think, the a/f responds really slowly even after putting in new O2 sensors. Well I got a WOT switch mouted to my throttle body show when i arm it its all fun and games till i hit WOT. I also have a NOS pressure gauge in my gauge pods its oly fer looks mostly I dont need to know how much pressure that much. Anyways I have my arm switch right under the gauge cluster next to the steering wheel and my bottle heater switch is right next to my shifter, I have an 96 gxe automagic. But other than that i didnt have any need for the upgraded fuel pump at the 60 and even when i dynoed the 70 shot it held up fine and i am gonna get it though cause I plan on boosting the car and im gonna need more fuel then. But all these other ideas are really good

 

Did you also get colder plugs? I'm running a .042 nitrous jet (80shot) & .034 bypass jet. Don't think I'm ever gonna go to a 100shot though. On the bottle I'm getting 82 psi which is a little rich for an 80shot but I'd rather play it safe...Yeah, an in-car fuel pressure gauge is a MUST-HAVE-ITEM for nitrous.

 

Your getting 82 psi with a .034! My FP went to over 100psi on the same setup! I had to use a .076 to get my FP under control...


As far as switches go, I have a GXE with No options, so I just used the blank switch panels on the dash to mount my switches...

 

I want to mount the N2O pressure gauge and the 4 switches inside my center console on a panel. The panel can be a stiff piece of acrylic, aluminum, or stainless steel sheeting secured with screws & silicone sealant to cut/fitted pieces of square extruded aluminum mounted around the inside perimeter of the console, also with screws and silicone sealant. The screws would provide a semi-permanent install, and the silicone sealant would help to prevent squeaks and rattles.

I would use hole saws to cut appropriate sized holes for the gauge and each switch. The gauge would be put in front, and centered in the panel. The switches would follow in a straight line toward the back of the console in this order: bottle heater, remote bottle control, arming switch, and purge button.

 

See, now you done went and started talking chinese... Where in the world can I find out what number jet I have? I bought my nitrous kit from someone on the org who bought it but never installed it. So, it was a "new" kit, but he had opened the box to fiddle with it. Either way, I have no clue what jet came in the kit. According to the seller it's the 80 shot. My seat of the pants dyno says it's not, but not sure. Also, what is a bypass jet? I'm a little confused, I have the 5124 and am running Autometer Phantom EGT and FP. According to my FP, under normal (off boost) it reads about 38 to about 48psi @WOT; under boost it jumps to about 60-65 psi @WOT. My EGT reads 400 to 600 deg. F under normal driving, up to 800-850 @WOT; under boost-closer to 1000 deg. F at most. I don't hold the juice on for very long, so I have no idea if goes up any higher. I believe this tells me I'm on the rich side of the equation, but that's where I'd rather be for now (while I'm still tweaking). I guess all this to ask someone to please tell me how I can figure out the jet size and what a bypass jet is.

 

Hey, what's wrong with talking Chinese? I understand what I'm saying

In a new 5124 kit, there are 4 jets included - .032, .034, .036, & .042 (the size is etched into each jet - you may have to hold it up to a light and tilt it at a certain angle to read it, though).

Your kit is installed and you don't know what a bypass jet is? Are you sure you have a dry kit? The bypass jet is the one that goes into the vacuum tee fitting.

Go find out which size nitrous jet you are using and you can start tuning your fuel pressure from there...

 

I'm positive mine is 5124 but as stated before, when I installed mine, there were several things missing (i.e. clear instructions). So I installed most of my system by downloaded instructions and pics. Some of the parts that I had in my kit, like the jet (which there was only one) was already put "together". The bypass jet was also already "installed" onto the part when it arrived. I have a leftover jet and I'll read it.

 

Just take apart the pressure tee and intake spray nozzle. It's not that hard. You should definitely know what size jets you have in both.