FINALLY after a year of the motor running like crap i had it done. The part cost me $130 from NISSAN +$70 labor for the install of the KS and for the cleaning of my Idle Air Control Motor. Having that cleaned out i no longer have a cloud of smoke after a cold start up in the morning and also my car doesnt stall out. The KS took my friends mechanic about 15min to swap it WITHOUT pulling the manifold off
I did notice a difference on acceleration and at idle with the new KS installed, but its nothing huge like people hipe it all up to be. It just cleans up the motors perfromance a bit.

Figured id share my good news with you guys.

lata,
Ant

 

Did you watch him replace the KS? What tools did he use? Is this a "small hands" job?

 

i wasnt there when he did it, but my biy had his done by him too and sai he used a flashlight and some weird ratchet to get in there.
Ant

 

Do a search, it's easy to replace. Swivel head socket and small hands.

 

I dunno about "it's easy to replace"....it aint!!!
Tried today...no sh*t you need small hands!!!

Went and bought a swivel head socket -- wish me luck...update tomorrow.

FLO_BOY

 

i bought three different "swivel" head socket wrenches, and a flex head socket. none of them worked at the right length/angle. it was actually harder to do it with that. I just used a regular socket wrench (standard length...about 10" long?). I had this really huge screw driver in my toolbox, its about 1.5 feet long. Had the SW sitting on the bolt down there, and used the huge screw driver to prop it against a sturdy metal piece down there (where the green colored harness is attached to), and wedged against that, and it worked. nothing else worked...good luck

 

Good idea, I'll give that a try. I tried the swivel with extension, but that didn't help one bit.

 

the real question is...
what type of rims are those and where can we see more pics of your car? Love the make over, looks dope.

 

hey guys, I had a question to you guys that have have the knock sensor problem, for i have been cursed with that dam code in my engine light, but i had acouple concerns about some noises. just wanted to see if its related to this.

Did you guys notice a knocking in the engine while its ideling? by the way, I also hear a temporary kocking sound at the beggining of acceleration of the first two to three gears when I was getting some sample runs off a light before i got purchase the y-pipe.

 

so you used the screw driver to hold the socket?

 

I occasionally get a slight tapping but I usually dismiss it as bad gas since it's so rare. My k/s is fine. I would assume it's possible the tapping could be caused by a bad knock sensor; since the purpose of the k/s is too eliminate knock and your's is throwing a code. DO you get other codes other than the k/s? Is it possible your engine oil is low and you're hearing valve tapping? EGR valve? Sorry, this probably wasn't much help at all.

 

So I take it these are the symptoms of a bad knock sensors? I don't have them yet I am debating replacing it after I have that so many '95-'96s have bad ones. My car runs fine though.
-Cyrus

 

I think he was referring to the dirty IACV that was causing the cloud of smoke?

 

I wish i had a digi cam so I could take step-by-step pictures. it all depends on whether or not you have the right tools...here is my brief process:
1.) stand in front of the car (not to the sides), and rest the SW on the 12mm bolt
2.) take a HUGE screw driver, or something else that is thin yet strong...and hold up the handle of the SW with your other hand so it is parallel with the floor
3.) using the screw driver between the stable metal piece and the handle of the SW, push towards the windshield of the car, slowly but steadily, making sure the handle of the SW remains PARALLEL with the floor, and the nut will break loose almost immediately. Oh, and make sure the SW is clicked perfectly so that there is enough distance for the handle to move...its tight down there! Now, I am not sure what other model years may have down in there with regard to this "stable metal piece" i am talking about. It looks to be a metal platform which supports a green colored harness connecting post...some models may not have it. be sure to check for the stability of anything that you may use to wedge another metal object against. good luck

 

Thanks for the explanation. Did you manage to thread the new KS by hand and then tighten it with the SW?

 

I did...u definitely need small hands...mine BARELY fit...

 

KS do not eliminate knocks. KS detects knock and sents voltage signal to the ECU. The ECU then retards the timing accordingly. The voltage to the ECU from the knock sensor is from 2.0V - 3.0V. If the ECU sees any voltage outside of this range (faulty KS), it throws a code into the memory.

 

yeah forgot to mention that part. my hands are not small...they are quite wide at the knuckles, but i managed to squeeze them in there. do it when the engine is cold obviously, its damn hot down there otherwise. only got a minor scrape...after hand tightening, i tried my best to tighten with the socket wrench...i figure when its warm out again i will check it again to see that its tight.

 

i replaced my ns friday and i took me about 5min once i figured out what tools to use. i used a long swivel socket and a telescopic magnet(machanical finger) it was pretty easy after that. car runs alot better now, after the install i ran a diagnostic on the car and found out that i need an o2 sensor. i will replace it next week. later

 

Yeah yer car looked like it was running fine Friday! Nice re-meeting you hehe.

 

yeah i was finally able to get on it without anymore hesitations from the engine.

And yes nice to re-meet you too

Ant

 

those rims look almost like the ones the galants come with this year or last year...are they it? they look better than the galant but they have a similiarity im guessing..how much did u get the front lip for??

 

I had just replaced my knock sensor (along with 6 new NGK-Platinum plugs) a couple of weeks ago, and I absolutely couldn't "feel" any difference in performance. I have been running the car with a bad knock sensor for almost a year for that it was highly too expensive, plus the labor to put it in. I was told that this was common in the 4th generation Maximas, and that it wouldn't "hurt" the car any. Replacing it myself was fairly easy. I just took the air filter assembly off and used a long,long socket extension with a 3/8 universal joint on the end. The wrench is easier to turn if you take out the air filter. Upon taking the old sensor out, mine was cracked. I have no idea how this may have happened, but it must have shortened its life. For all you guys replacing this sensor, be ready to get your hands scratched up. It's very sharp under that manifold. GOOD LUCK!

 

Whcih part on yours was actually cracked? The plastic casing or the actual metal inside?

SuDZ

 

why would i buy rims from off a Galant?? and i have the FULL Stillen kit btw

Ant

 

nah i didnt say u got the rims off a galant...im saying the galants rims look almost like that, or atleast as far as i thought...not sure..anyways who cares, they look hot on ur car...and my bad i didnt notice the full kit from that angle, the front is more visible...where in NYC do u live?

 

i live out in Suffolk County. And yes the kit is barely noticable at a quick glance. I need to talk to my photographer j/k Joe

Ant

 

the pic was good, but i had to chop it down for it to fit in the sig.. there were a few good ones.. maybe its hard to see cause its not painted yet?