I performed a search "AGX adjustment" back 6 months...couldn't find an answer...

Question: Concerning the front struts, how many here have the side adjustable units, and how many have the top adjustable? I just received mine this weekend and noticed this...I seem to have the top adjustable units. Are there pros and cons for each?

Thanks
AL

 

The front struts are a 4-position screwdriver adjustment throught the top of the shock rod under the hood.

The rear struts are an 8-position adjustment dial turned by hand on the side of the strut body. You kinda have to do some yoga to get to them + have a mirror but it's not too bad. The rear dial-thingies seem cool at first but I'd rather ave the adjustment through the shock rod in the back.... more protected. You could still get to the rod too with a razor blade to the trunk lining.

That's the deal...

-RMB

 

Just curious, what are you settings? It seems that most here use 2 in the fron, 4 in the back.

Thanks again,
AL

 

Usually 2 in front and 4 in back. I've tried the 4/8 and like it for really smooth/highspeed interstate driving but that's only 10% of my trips. 2/4 is great around town and crappy roads..

1/1 Too soft and tends to bottom on bigger hits.(But I didn't trim my bumpstops either)


-RMB

 

3/4 for me. im going to check my rear again. 3 is good for a sporty front ride, 2 is good.

question: i dont have my instructions. do you guys turn it clockwise all the time, or can you go counter to turn it back wards? and if you go from 4 to 1, can you jus click once, or go backwards?

thanks

 

I go both ways.....

errrr... I mean... you can turn it either way. Just make sure the front ones pop back up completely and the rear ones make that audible "click".

-RMB

 

Ditto for me:

3 front, 4 rear works well w/ my Apex springs.

 

Did you struts come with the AGX sticker applied. For some reason, and I found this to be odd, my stickers were included, but not applied to the body of the strut. For a moment, i thought that perhaps these weren't the genuine KYB AGXs.

 

Mine came loose too. But they're genuine. I've stuck mine to my ****.

You can stick em to your windows too like a lot of the ricers. That way the thief thinking about what car to steal will have a laundry list of mods to choose from...

-RMB

 

GOOD CALL, you dont want to look like a mini parts store. dont let people know what you have, and they wont want to take it.
my stickers came on my strut body..hm strange stuff

 

My stickers came separately so you're not alone. I've run lots of different combinations, but I usually leave it on 2/4 like others. I adjust from 1 up to 8 or 8 down to 1, but I'd be interested to know if you can click from 8 directly to 1. I sent KYB an email and never got a response
-hype

 

My stickers were separate. Personally, it's not the best looking sticker imho, so mine went out w/ the trash.

I always get a special kick out of people who put stereo component stickers on the outside of their vehicles. I mean, "Hellooooooo. . .anybody home, McFly?"

You might as well leave a crowbar on the ground next to your parked car with a note saying "nobody's looking."

It's one thing to steal the whole car to chop, (as one would have to for suspension parts) but entirely another to steal parts (like audio gear) off the car & leave it parked there. Different class of criminal, altogether - the lower level ****-a-roaches don't need any extra encouragement.

 

Agreed...

 

...on the springs? The OE Nissan wrap, Radio Shack helix wire wrap, DIY-helix-cut rubber tubing, or Home Depot wire wrap? Just trying to get a feel for what's working best out there.

Thanks
AL

 

I used the clear viynl tubing from Home Depot and I get no noise from the springs coils rubbing against each other. However, I get a do get a "popping" noise that I believe is an incorrectly seated strut




http://bba01.bus.utexas.edu/Matthew.Quon/max/bg.htm
-hype

 

I used the Radio Shack special...

No problems...

 

actually..i dont have isolation sleeves. funny but i have no problem- and i wont jinx myself. its doin fine for about 2 months.

haha someone said ANYONE HOME MCFLY- that was funny, thanks for the laugh. later people

 

Ok I did the KYB-AGX install with some Intrax springs. When I hit bumps I get a vibration noise on some bumps but not on others. Whats the deal?

 

Front:
I used 5/8" Inside Diameter clear PVC tubing from Home Depot:
(Bottom coil & second coil from the top - where they contact)

Rear:
I used 1/2" Inside Diameter clear PVC tubing from Home Depot:
(On bottom coil) & clear spiral wire wrap on the top 4 coils

Result:
Zero spring-related noise, to date.

Note:
If NE1 decides to use the PVC, soak the cut tube sections in a bucket/sink of hot water just b-4 you go to put them on & spray silicone lubricant inside the tube to get it to slide easily over the spring. It's cake, that way.

 

So let me get this straight.

I need to coat my springs with PVC tubing to have a quiet ride? damn, I don't want to take my car apart AGAIN just to have a quiet suspension. I wish I would've known this stuff last week.

What kind of PVC tubing do I use and how much do I need? What size (Gauge)?

 

-many people have fine results using the spriral wire wrap alone - I just chose to do mine w/ the PVC because it's solid (no gaps) and less likely to get crunched around and deformed on the front springs.

Refer to what I called the tubing in my first post @ Home Depot & that will get you what you need. If you do it the way I did, you should buy about 4' of the 5/8" (ID) tubing & about 3' of the 1/2" (ID) tubing. I also used 1 package (2 pc.) of the spiral wire wrap for the top of the rear springs.

 

because when I hit a bump I get a noise from my suspension. I guess this is the reason why? Spring on metal with nothing to buffer it?

 

I did what KWheelzSB suggested with the PVC tubing on H&R springs. Works great. This should last a lot longer than wire wrap as well. It'll be interesting to see how long it does last.

Also the H&R's I think are a tiny bit smaller diameter wire so you don't need to soak the tubing in hot water or anthing. Just spray silicone on both the spring and inside the tube and slip that bad boy on. Don't bother with the nylon zip-tie to pull the tubing on, just get a good grip.

I didn't wrap the rears at all and have a tiny bit of metal/spring noise on sharp bumps but nothing noticeable enough to warrant ripping everything apart again. The fronts are silent.

-RMB