I'm looking for opinions on doing my own 90,000 mile service on my 96 Maxima. I've always done my own tune ups on cars like brakes, filters, fluid change etc but I've never taken my Maxima in to the dealer for servicing. I looked over the dealers checklist for the 90,000 mile service and there's alot of inspecting and checking for $349, and a few replacement of items. I'm looking into changing the filters and antifreeze and spark plugs myself. Should I spend the $349 to have the dealer do their thing for that piece of mind of having an "expert" give it a thourough going over, or just replace myself what needs replacing and worry about fixing things only when they break. Two concerns are that I've not had the timing belt replaced yet, and have not had the transmission serviced, (I've got 96,500 miles on the car) Also if I do it myself, how big of pain is getting to the spark plugs. So far, I haven't been able to find them, are they hidden beneath the intake manifold?

Thanks for your suggestions.
Van

 

Plugs are easy to change. I thought Nissan recommended every 60,000 miles changing them since they're platinum tipped. Theoretically, you never need to change them unless gapping or contamintaion of the plugs occur. You'd be suprised at what little the delaership does inspect/check. Check your hoses/belts yourself, check your fluid if an auto tranny, if manual fogedaboutit. Timing belt? I thought the car had a timing chain? I'd say same your $ and buy some stock in Nissan in the foreign markets

 

Van,

Don't let those dealers charge you full price if you do some of the work already. If you do the fluids and parts replacements yourself, that's a bulk of the labor.

When it was time for my 60K, I played this game with my local dealer when I asked him how much is it for each maintenance item. (Of course, it would cost more item by item) But I nipped away at the list weekend by weekend until I realized I did everything! hehe

I would recommend that you replace what is recommended rather than "fixing things only when they break". These things have a tendency to give up on you when you need them the most. hehe

If you're concerned about having an expert look things over (I was too) just tell the dealer which systems (as required by the 90K) to inspect. An inspection will cost waay less...I think he quoted me $30-$50. Better yet, take it to a mechanic (non-Nissan dealer) and see what price you can get.

The spark plugs on my 96 were easy to get to except one.
Until I realized that removing the EGR valve (I believe it is) held by two bolts made even that last one a "non-event".

Good luck and have fun!

-Victor
http://vbxmaxima.8m.com

 

This job is easier than it might appear at first glance.

1) Remove front bank rocker cover ornament.
2) Disconnect six ignition coil harness connectors. Three are found under
the ornament. Three more are found nestled among the plenum runners, in
plain view, closer to the windshield than the three which were hidden under
the ornament.
3) Loosen ignition coil fixing bolts and pull out six coils from the intake
manifold connectors.
4) Use a spark plug socket, a long extension, and a ratchet handle to remove
the spark plugs.
5) I recommend using a tiny dab of anti-sieze compound on the threads of the
new spark plugs. I've had good luck with Bosch platinum spark plugs.
This recommendation is controversial. Some other contributors to this
newsgroup insist that the original equipment brand is preferable.
6) Tighten the new plugs to 14 - 22 foot-pounds.

 

Quote:

Originally posted by Van
... ... if I do it myself, how big of pain is getting to the spark plugs. So far, I haven't been able to find them, are they hidden beneath the intake manifold?

The factory maintenance schedule calls for spark plugs to be replaced at 60K and again at 120K miles. Maybe you don't need new ones now, at 90K.

 

I haven't changed the plugs at all yet. Does the car come stock with plantinum tipped plugs? The reason I think they may need replacing is because often in the morning when the car is cold it misses pretty badly for a couple minutes. I suppose the rotor and distributor contacts could be suspect as well. I will also inspect them as part of my tuneup.

By the way thanks to everyone their helpful and informative responses.

Van

 

Timing belt...
Your Maxima has a timing chain, not a belt. The chain has no scheduled replacement interval. It should be replaced only if it becomes loose and noisy. This rarely happens.

Transmission...
If your Maxima has automatic transmission you should replace the Automatic Transmission Fluid. Replacing the ATF is not required by Nissan but it is cheap insurance. If you pay a shop to do this, make sure they use the Magic Sucker Pump which will replace all of the old fluid. Expect to pay about US$80. If you do an ordinary drain-and-refill in your driveway, you cannot get all of the used fluid out. That is okay, if you perform that drain-and-refill with every-other engine oil change. This is not a big deal if you've already got the car up on jackstands and already have your hands dirty. This D-I-Y option is inexpensive and your transmission will always be running on almost-new fluid.

 

Your '96 Maxima doesn't have a distributor! No distributor cap, no rotor, no spark plug wires. 4Gen and 5Gen Maximas use coil-on-plug ignition.

 

Speaking of spark plugs...does anyone know if we can use the plugs from the 5th gen in our cars? They're supposed to be good for 100k miles.

 

Hey Daniel:

What kind of Bosch plugs did you used? I really don't want to spend 9 bucks a plug. I just looking the next best plug available.

Thanks
MaxJoey

 

I used the inexpensive Bosch platinums. I bought them when they were on sale, and paid less than $2 apiece.

I should repeat the warning given by some Nissan owners, who say that OEM plugs are the only kind to use. I'm willing to experiment, but some fellows aren't. If one brand of plug gives disappointing results I'm willing to pull them out and try something else.

Experimentation goes beyond spark plugs. Some Nissan owners insist that only OEM brake pads will be silent. However, I've had good results with brand-name aftermarket pads such as Raybestos.

 

ok this were 6 bux a piece all i got to say now is i scratch 2nd gear in my auto O S**t they good get them these have 4 thing at end instead of one dont have to be gapped put anti seize on treads

 

Hey Daniel

Let me start of by Thanking you for your instruction and recommendation. I just changed my spark plugs by using the bosch platinum (not the +4. I als tighten the two silver wire that moves (it gives the car gas when you pull on it, don't know the technical name.) Here is the change i noticed.

1- The car starts better
2- The car doesn't have that lag when you press on gas
3- The car idles at 700-800 when park (Is this normal? Prior to the change the car idles around 500.

Thanks Again.
MaxJoey

 

Those stranded steel wires are called throttle control cables. The one nearest the throttle body is connected to the gas pedal. The other one is connected to the cruise control. It's good to adjust them so there is a tiny amount of free play.


The factory service manual gives these specifications for idle speed...

5-speed . . . . . . . . . . . . 625 +/- 50
Automatic, in Neutral . . . . 700 +/- 50

 

Hey Daniel:

Thanks for the info. I neglect to put antiseize spray on the the spark plugs. Should I take them out and spray it with antiseize spray. My friend that has been doing spark plug changes has been doing this for the past 10 years told me not to.

 

Hey Daniel:

Thanks for the info. I neglect to put antiseize spray on the the spark plugs. Should I take them out and spray it with antiseize spray? My friend that has been doing spark plug changes for 10 years told me not to.
.

MaxJoey
Thanks

 

The anti-sieze is desirabe but not essential. No need to pull the plugs just to apply it. The anti-sieze products I use are a silvery paste, not a spray. Perhaps you have found a different kind of anti-sieze.

You didn't say what kind of cars your friend has serviced. Older models with cast iron cylinder heads don't need anti-sieze. Newer models, including 4Gen Maximas, have aluminum cylinder heads. Anti-sieze is beneficial with aluminum heads.

Here are two links which describe 4Gen Maxima plug changes. Both mention the use of anti-sieze.
http://integra.vtec.net/geeser/megamax/60k_service.html
http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/sparkplug.html

 

I've got a question out of curiosity, and because I'm often dropping screws around the engine when I'm trying to remove them. What happens if you drop a screw down the hole where the spark plug goes, while the spark plug is not in? Do you actually have to tear then engine apart to retrieve the screw to keep from ruining your engine. I would imagine so. I suspect that this has happened before but I was extra careful when doing my plug change, but was curious what would happen to the engine if you did drop one in.

Van

 

use a magnet...

 

Kenneth gave a good answer. You can retrieve a lost screw with a magnet on a flexible stalk if you are lucky and if the screw is steel.

This question touches on the subject of good work habits. It's advisable to have each new plug ready for installation before you remove the installed plug. Old plug out, new plug in, no delay and no risk. Any time you are doing a major repair and have engine orifices exposed, it is a good idea to stuff them with clean rags to prevent accidental "drop-ins".