VI installation complete
Thread Starter
Donating Maxima.org Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 500
From: Boise, ID
VI installation complete
It's done. No skinned knuckles. I'm happy.
Last Friday I installed the VI but did not have the rpm switch to complete the installation. I recieved the rpm switch this past monday and completed the wiring and the vacuum reservoir installation last night.
When everything was completed and double-checked I cranked the transformed beast to life. Nothing happened. I checked out the install and the vacuum canister hoses are collapsed from suction. I used standard hose instead of automotive pressurized hose. With a quick trip into town for pressurized hose and a few quick snips and zip ties I was ready to try again.
On the second start the actuator arm pulls the valves open as soon as there is enough vacuum stored in the reservoir and stays open. ****. When I turned my max off the actuator arm released and the VI valves close. I had the Dawes Devices solenoid installed and thought that I was experiencing the same problem IanS ran into.
After the calming effect that several beers have on me I came to the conclusion that either the Dawes Devices solenoid does not work for this application or it is being told to stay on. I started my max up again and waited for the actuator arm to open the valves. Then I went to the rely and disconnected the "switched" ground and the actuator arm closed. I disconnected and connected the "switched" ground several times and the actuator would open and close accordingly. Problem identified.
I changed the setting on the rpm switch from "coil per cylinder" to "6 cylinder". I chose to wire my rpm switch from the tach where IanS wired his RPM switch from the coil. To test the VI, I set the RPM switch to 2k rpm. I started my max once again and the actuator arm did not activate instantly. Then I revved the engine to 2k rpm and a magical thing happened. It worked! The actuator would open at 2k rpm and then close below 2k rpm.
My max now pulls strongly from 5k rpm on up. The best way for me to describe the effect of the VI is the power feels linear all the way to redline. No dips just constant pull.
Dyno is tomorrow afternoon.
Last Friday I installed the VI but did not have the rpm switch to complete the installation. I recieved the rpm switch this past monday and completed the wiring and the vacuum reservoir installation last night.
When everything was completed and double-checked I cranked the transformed beast to life. Nothing happened. I checked out the install and the vacuum canister hoses are collapsed from suction. I used standard hose instead of automotive pressurized hose. With a quick trip into town for pressurized hose and a few quick snips and zip ties I was ready to try again.
On the second start the actuator arm pulls the valves open as soon as there is enough vacuum stored in the reservoir and stays open. ****. When I turned my max off the actuator arm released and the VI valves close. I had the Dawes Devices solenoid installed and thought that I was experiencing the same problem IanS ran into.
After the calming effect that several beers have on me I came to the conclusion that either the Dawes Devices solenoid does not work for this application or it is being told to stay on. I started my max up again and waited for the actuator arm to open the valves. Then I went to the rely and disconnected the "switched" ground and the actuator arm closed. I disconnected and connected the "switched" ground several times and the actuator would open and close accordingly. Problem identified.
I changed the setting on the rpm switch from "coil per cylinder" to "6 cylinder". I chose to wire my rpm switch from the tach where IanS wired his RPM switch from the coil. To test the VI, I set the RPM switch to 2k rpm. I started my max once again and the actuator arm did not activate instantly. Then I revved the engine to 2k rpm and a magical thing happened. It worked! The actuator would open at 2k rpm and then close below 2k rpm.
My max now pulls strongly from 5k rpm on up. The best way for me to describe the effect of the VI is the power feels linear all the way to redline. No dips just constant pull.
Dyno is tomorrow afternoon.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,530
Re: VI installation complete
Originally posted by speedtrip
It's done. No skinned knuckles. I'm happy.
Last Friday I installed the VI but did not have the rpm switch to complete the installation. I recieved the rpm switch this past monday and completed the wiring and the vacuum reservoir installation last night.
When everything was completed and double-checked I cranked the transformed beast to life. Nothing happened. I checked out the install and the vacuum canister hoses are collapsed from suction. I used standard hose instead of automotive pressurized hose. With a quick trip into town for pressurized hose and a few quick snips and zip ties I was ready to try again.
On the second start the actuator arm pulls the valves open as soon as there is enough vacuum stored in the reservoir and stays open. ****. When I turned my max off the actuator arm released and the VI valves close. I had the Dawes Devices solenoid installed and thought that I was experiencing the same problem IanS ran into.
After the calming effect that several beers have on me I came to the conclusion that either the Dawes Devices solenoid does not work for this application or it is being told to stay on. I started my max up again and waited for the actuator arm to open the valves. Then I went to the rely and disconnected the "switched" ground and the actuator arm closed. I disconnected and connected the "switched" ground several times and the actuator would open and close accordingly. Problem identified.
I changed the setting on the rpm switch from "coil per cylinder" to "6 cylinder". I chose to wire my rpm switch from the tach where IanS wired his RPM switch from the coil. I started my max once again and the actuator did not activate instantly. Then I revved the engine to 2k rpm which is where I set the RPM switch to activate. Then a magical thing happened. It worked! The actuator would open at 2k rpm and then close below 2k rpm.
My max now pulls strongly from 5k rpm on up. The best way for me to describe the effect of the VI is the power feels linear all the way to redline. No dips just constant pull.
Dyno is tomorrow afternoon.
It's done. No skinned knuckles. I'm happy.
Last Friday I installed the VI but did not have the rpm switch to complete the installation. I recieved the rpm switch this past monday and completed the wiring and the vacuum reservoir installation last night.
When everything was completed and double-checked I cranked the transformed beast to life. Nothing happened. I checked out the install and the vacuum canister hoses are collapsed from suction. I used standard hose instead of automotive pressurized hose. With a quick trip into town for pressurized hose and a few quick snips and zip ties I was ready to try again.
On the second start the actuator arm pulls the valves open as soon as there is enough vacuum stored in the reservoir and stays open. ****. When I turned my max off the actuator arm released and the VI valves close. I had the Dawes Devices solenoid installed and thought that I was experiencing the same problem IanS ran into.
After the calming effect that several beers have on me I came to the conclusion that either the Dawes Devices solenoid does not work for this application or it is being told to stay on. I started my max up again and waited for the actuator arm to open the valves. Then I went to the rely and disconnected the "switched" ground and the actuator arm closed. I disconnected and connected the "switched" ground several times and the actuator would open and close accordingly. Problem identified.
I changed the setting on the rpm switch from "coil per cylinder" to "6 cylinder". I chose to wire my rpm switch from the tach where IanS wired his RPM switch from the coil. I started my max once again and the actuator did not activate instantly. Then I revved the engine to 2k rpm which is where I set the RPM switch to activate. Then a magical thing happened. It worked! The actuator would open at 2k rpm and then close below 2k rpm.
My max now pulls strongly from 5k rpm on up. The best way for me to describe the effect of the VI is the power feels linear all the way to redline. No dips just constant pull.
Dyno is tomorrow afternoon.
SuDZ
Thread Starter
Donating Maxima.org Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 500
From: Boise, ID
Originally posted by njmaxseltd
I thought they were supposed to open up at around 4500 - 5K RPM's?
I thought they were supposed to open up at around 4500 - 5K RPM's?
I have the rpm switch set at 5k rpm for use.
Originally posted by MardiGrasMax
When you dyno do multiple pulls with the VI set at different points, ie 4500, 5000, 5500rpms, so you can see what is optimum.
When you dyno do multiple pulls with the VI set at different points, ie 4500, 5000, 5500rpms, so you can see what is optimum.
. That would allow for 3 pulls: 1 Off, 1 On, 1 On at whatever rpm the torque curves cross at. Ian did several pulls and even with his "experimental" VI opening rpms his optimum open rpm was the same as where the torque curves crossed.Can't wait to see they dyno and glad you got everything working speedtrip.
-hype
Thread Starter
Donating Maxima.org Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 500
From: Boise, ID
Originally posted by 1MAX2NV
Which RPM switch did you get?
Which RPM switch did you get?
It cost $50 and is easy to setup.
Dawes...
Damn dude. You had me scared. Glad the Dawes Devices solenoid worked. I'm surprised you guys tested the system after putting it all together instead of testing it piecemeal.
I first tested that the vacuum reservoir was indeed storing/pulling manifold vacuum. Then connected the Dawes Solenoid and using the battery terminals, tested to see if it would pull the actuator and release appropriately. I think you should test the RPM switch separately too...
I first tested that the vacuum reservoir was indeed storing/pulling manifold vacuum. Then connected the Dawes Solenoid and using the battery terminals, tested to see if it would pull the actuator and release appropriately. I think you should test the RPM switch separately too...
Just for notes, Ian used a Nissan oem vaccuum switch from a Pulsar. They are very common on Nissans in general. Ie. I have 2-3 on my VE for my varible intake and other vaccuum sourced switches. Used was $2.50
Originally posted by xHypex
That's a bunch of dynoes for guessing. I thought it was discussed to be best to dyno with the VI on and Off and switch where the torque curves crossed . That would allow for 3 pulls: 1 Off, 1 On, 1 On at whatever rpm the torque curves cross at. Ian did several pulls and even with his "experimental" VI opening rpms his optimum open rpm was the same as where the torque curves crossed.
Can't wait to see they dyno and glad you got everything working speedtrip.
-hype
That's a bunch of dynoes for guessing. I thought it was discussed to be best to dyno with the VI on and Off and switch where the torque curves crossed
. That would allow for 3 pulls: 1 Off, 1 On, 1 On at whatever rpm the torque curves cross at. Ian did several pulls and even with his "experimental" VI opening rpms his optimum open rpm was the same as where the torque curves crossed.Can't wait to see they dyno and glad you got everything working speedtrip.
-hype
If you go anywhere below 5000, your hp drops off quickly for a second when the flaps open and never really recovers before redline. I'm pretty sure it's a pressure thing.
Above 5000, it doesn't seem to kick in in time to work properly, and you get similar results.
5000 is the optimum point.
IanS
Originally posted by Jeff92se
Just for notes, Ian used a Nissan oem vaccuum switch from a Pulsar. They are very common on Nissans in general. Ie. I have 2-3 on my VE for my varible intake and other vaccuum sourced switches. Used was $2.50
Just for notes, Ian used a Nissan oem vaccuum switch from a Pulsar. They are very common on Nissans in general. Ie. I have 2-3 on my VE for my varible intake and other vaccuum sourced switches. Used was $2.50
-hype
Originally posted by xHypex
That's a bunch of dynoes for guessing. I thought it was discussed to be best to dyno with the VI on and Off and switch where the torque curves crossed . That would allow for 3 pulls: 1 Off, 1 On, 1 On at whatever rpm the torque curves cross at. Ian did several pulls and even with his "experimental" VI opening rpms his optimum open rpm was the same as where the torque curves crossed.
Can't wait to see they dyno and glad you got everything working speedtrip.
-hype
That's a bunch of dynoes for guessing. I thought it was discussed to be best to dyno with the VI on and Off and switch where the torque curves crossed
. That would allow for 3 pulls: 1 Off, 1 On, 1 On at whatever rpm the torque curves cross at. Ian did several pulls and even with his "experimental" VI opening rpms his optimum open rpm was the same as where the torque curves crossed.Can't wait to see they dyno and glad you got everything working speedtrip.
-hype
IanS
Originally posted by xHypex
Didn't he use a Dawes MAP/BARO switch first without success? I had planned to get one, but took it off my list when Ian mentioned that he couldn't get it to work. I believe an alternative MAP/BARO switch may still be found at a Napa, but have yet to find one.
-hype
Didn't he use a Dawes MAP/BARO switch first without success? I had planned to get one, but took it off my list when Ian mentioned that he couldn't get it to work. I believe an alternative MAP/BARO switch may still be found at a Napa, but have yet to find one.
-hype
I already corrected myself on that.
But since my $2.50 on works exactly the same, i haven't bothered putting the DawesDevices one on...anyone want to buy it with their VI?
IanS
Originally posted by iansw
And in what way is my VI "experimental" It's the same one from the same place that Speedtrip has. He bought his from me!
IanS
And in what way is my VI "experimental" It's the same one from the same place that Speedtrip has. He bought his from me!
IanS
I didn't mean anything derragatory towards your setup 
-hype
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,362
Originally posted by 95maxrider
can somebody explain why you wouldn't have it open earlier, at say, 2500 rpm? if it allows more air in, why wouldn't we have it open the whole time, instead of only for about 1500?
can somebody explain why you wouldn't have it open earlier, at say, 2500 rpm? if it allows more air in, why wouldn't we have it open the whole time, instead of only for about 1500?
Originally posted by 95maxrider
can somebody explain why you wouldn't have it open earlier, at say, 2500 rpm? if it allows more air in, why wouldn't we have it open the whole time, instead of only for about 1500?
can somebody explain why you wouldn't have it open earlier, at say, 2500 rpm? if it allows more air in, why wouldn't we have it open the whole time, instead of only for about 1500?
Originally posted by maximus75
It doen't allow more are in. It changes the length of the intake runners. At low RPMs there is less velocity of the incoming air therefore a longer runner creates some turbulace to help the air enter the plenum. Kinda like when people say you need some backpressure in your exhaust system. It works the same way by changing the velocity of the incoming air. At high rpms the cylinder speeds are much higher causing low pressure in combustion chamber thus moving the incoming air at a much more steady velocity so a very short run to the manifold would be more efficient. This is why these intakes would benifit a N/A vehicle much more than a S/C or turbo'ed car. On those engines the air is already being forced in. The intake manifold won't really help.
It doen't allow more are in. It changes the length of the intake runners. At low RPMs there is less velocity of the incoming air therefore a longer runner creates some turbulace to help the air enter the plenum. Kinda like when people say you need some backpressure in your exhaust system. It works the same way by changing the velocity of the incoming air. At high rpms the cylinder speeds are much higher causing low pressure in combustion chamber thus moving the incoming air at a much more steady velocity so a very short run to the manifold would be more efficient. This is why these intakes would benifit a N/A vehicle much more than a S/C or turbo'ed car. On those engines the air is already being forced in. The intake manifold won't really help.
IanS
I saw that post however it contadicts the whole theory behind the Variable part. I think the design of the intake alone is what yeilded those gains, not the fact that it causes variation in runner length however I could be wrong. I'm just going by what I was taught when these things first came out.
Thread Starter
Donating Maxima.org Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 500
From: Boise, ID
Originally posted by Soon2BMaxed
i hope this dyno goes well!
i hope this dyno goes well!
It will be interesting to find out if there is any change below 5k rpm between the two manifolds. I think that I felt a change around 3k. The US and VI runners are shaped slightly different. We will see.
Originally posted by maximus75
It doen't allow more are in. It changes the length of the intake runners. At low RPMs there is less velocity of the incoming air therefore a longer runner creates some turbulace to help the air enter the plenum. Kinda like when people say you need some backpressure in your exhaust system. It works the same way by changing the velocity of the incoming air. At high rpms the cylinder speeds are much higher causing low pressure in combustion chamber thus moving the incoming air at a much more steady velocity so a very short run to the manifold would be more efficient. This is why these intakes would benifit a N/A vehicle much more than a S/C or turbo'ed car. On those engines the air is already being forced in. The intake manifold won't really help.
It doen't allow more are in. It changes the length of the intake runners. At low RPMs there is less velocity of the incoming air therefore a longer runner creates some turbulace to help the air enter the plenum. Kinda like when people say you need some backpressure in your exhaust system. It works the same way by changing the velocity of the incoming air. At high rpms the cylinder speeds are much higher causing low pressure in combustion chamber thus moving the incoming air at a much more steady velocity so a very short run to the manifold would be more efficient. This is why these intakes would benifit a N/A vehicle much more than a S/C or turbo'ed car. On those engines the air is already being forced in. The intake manifold won't really help.
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,470
good job on the intake. I thinking about getting one as well. Is this something anyone can install or do u have to know what ur doing. Could u give me a caprison of what it is like to install, diffuculty wise(ex: installing shocks and springs, or like installing y pipe.) thanks for the info.
oh yeah one more thing how much did it cost u in the end.
oh yeah one more thing how much did it cost u in the end.
Originally posted by Mad Dhan
good job on the intake. I thinking about getting one as well. Is this something anyone can install or do u have to know what ur doing. Could u give me a caprison of what it is like to install, diffuculty wise(ex: installing shocks and springs, or like installing y pipe.) thanks for the info.
oh yeah one more thing how much did it cost u in the end.
good job on the intake. I thinking about getting one as well. Is this something anyone can install or do u have to know what ur doing. Could u give me a caprison of what it is like to install, diffuculty wise(ex: installing shocks and springs, or like installing y pipe.) thanks for the info.
oh yeah one more thing how much did it cost u in the end.
Basically this is an intake manifold R&R. If you've never done it before the estimated time is ~4 hours or so. You also need to know how to do wiring for this mod.
-hype
Donating Maxima.org Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 387
yea i am interested on exactly how much this whole project cost... i have $1k coming in june when i graduate and this might be something nice to do... if not this a zex kit i think... can't afford a turbo or supercharger like i want
The cost is approximately $600-700 depending on who you buy the VI from. The VI itself is 500-600, and the extra parts needed (MAP/BARO switch, rpm switch, vacuum canister, etc.) will run you almost $100.
-hype
-hype
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,470
Originally posted by xHypex
http://www.vanillaice.com/webmasters/hype/mrc/mevi.htm
Basically this is an intake manifold R&R. If you've never done it before the estimated time is ~4 hours or so. You also need to know how to do wiring for this mod.
-hype
http://www.vanillaice.com/webmasters/hype/mrc/mevi.htm
Basically this is an intake manifold R&R. If you've never done it before the estimated time is ~4 hours or so. You also need to know how to do wiring for this mod.
-hype
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,530
Originally posted by Mad Dhan
wow, not bad at all, i can wire stuff no prob, its the actual installing of the intake im worried about.
wow, not bad at all, i can wire stuff no prob, its the actual installing of the intake im worried about.
SuDZ
Originally posted by xHypex
http://www.vanillaice.com/webmasters/hype/mrc/mevi.htm
Basically this is an intake manifold R&R. If you've never done it before the estimated time is ~4 hours or so. You also need to know how to do wiring for this mod.
-hype
http://www.vanillaice.com/webmasters/hype/mrc/mevi.htm
Basically this is an intake manifold R&R. If you've never done it before the estimated time is ~4 hours or so. You also need to know how to do wiring for this mod.
-hype
Can I copy that site to my website?
Thanks!
IanS
Originally posted by iansw
Wow, I didn't realize you used all my data and made a site.
Can I copy that site to my website?
Thanks!
IanS
Wow, I didn't realize you used all my data and made a site.
Can I copy that site to my website?
Thanks!
IanS
The more we all work together the more it helps everyone. If you learn anything additional send it my way and I'll be sure to do the same.-hype
Originally posted by xHypex
The cost is approximately $600-700 depending on who you buy the VI from. The VI itself is 500-600, and the extra parts needed (MAP/BARO switch, rpm switch, vacuum canister, etc.) will run you almost $100.
-hype
The cost is approximately $600-700 depending on who you buy the VI from. The VI itself is 500-600, and the extra parts needed (MAP/BARO switch, rpm switch, vacuum canister, etc.) will run you almost $100.
-hype
As a matter of fact, to be competetive, I can go as low as $540, depending on where I'm shipping to. If I go any lower, I lose money out of pocket, so that's the best I can do.
I will also try and throw in the solenoid myself, depending on how many I can find at the local junkyard. It'll be a week or two before I have time to go look, however.
All bolts will also be included in my kit.
IanS
Originally posted by trinity000
i know iansw is in seattle and i am in RI so that is a bit far lol but where is cranman?
i know iansw is in seattle and i am in RI so that is a bit far lol but where is cranman?
. That way there's no double shipping cost.-hype