the safety interlock(i think thats what it called, the thing that makes sure ur in park in an auto b4 it'll start), is causing a lot of problems for me, today is like the 10th time it failed to start for me. But unlike the other times i couldn't get it to work, it took my pop to call a mechanic he knew and a couple hours to get it just right so it would start...how much would i be lookin at to replace it or get it fixed or is it a DIY install or fix? any expert opinions appreciated thanks.

 

Car should also start when you are in neutral. Next time make sure when you are in park, that your car is in park. Before you turn off the car next time and you think you are in park, let off the brake and see if the car rolls backwards...if it does, your transmission says "park" but you are really still in reverse.

 

I am having a similar problem. Right now, if I am on a level surface 9 times out of 10 it will not start and I have to gently bump the Auto selector forward and then it starts. I priced having the dealer change out the solenoid that is causing the problem, and it is going to run me about $120 for parts and labor (~$30 parts/rest labor). As far as how easy it is to change for a DIY, according to other posts it can be done, but is not an easy job. For $120 it is worth it to me to have the dealer do it.

 

The Park/Neutral Position switch is mounted on the outside of the transaxle housing. It is on the side of the housing which is closest to the radiator. Adjustment or replacement may be done by the home mechanic. See the Haynes manual, page 7B-7 for adjustment and replacement instructions.

 

A faulty Inhibitor Relay could cause this kind of intermittent no-crank complaint.

The Inhibitor Relay is connected to the clutch safety switch (5-speed) or the Park/Neutral Position switch (automatic). The purpose of this circuitry is to prevent the car from cranking if the car might lurch into motion unexpectedly. Here's some information about locating and testing the Inhibitor Relay.

1) Raise the hood.

2) Just in front of the battery you should see a black plastic relay box. This is relay box #2. There is a good photo of it in the Haynes manual on page 12-4.

3) Snap off the relay box cover. This can be done with your fingers.

4) There are two rows of relay sockets, four in each row. Your relay box may have some blank sockets, depending on which options are installed. Look at the row of relays closest to the battery. The second from left socket should have a blue relay installed, and that is the Inhibitor Relay.

You may test it several ways.
a) Exchange it with a known-good relay. All blue-case relays with four terminals are the same.
b) Follow the relay test procedure shown in the Haynes manual on pages 12-4 and 12-5.
c) Substitute a short jumper for the relay, placing the jumper in socket positions 3 and 5. WARNING! With this jumper installed the no-crank safety interlock is disabled. Your car will crank and start in any shift position. Work safely!