Got Guages..? please post.
#2
I got electrical gauges so I wouldn't have to run fluid lines up to them inside the passenger compartment. That would not have been safe. I suppose mechanical gauges are best for inside the engine bay. I got a fuel pressure gauge and an exhaust gas temperature gauge for my N2O set-up. What gauges you get depends on your specific application. I would not go cheap if I were you. If you're going to get a decent benefit from having them, get good gauges to begin with. And, that dual gauge pod from Autometer looks cool, too...
#3
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i just ordered that dual pod.
so with mechanical your saying id need to run lines for fuel pressure to the inside of my car, or am i stupid here?
Im Thinking Trans temp and Fuel Pressure.
Air/Fuel guages. Dont i need the air/fuel mixture thingy under my hood too, so mixtures cAN be made.
THANK YOU PLEASE POST. help!
so with mechanical your saying id need to run lines for fuel pressure to the inside of my car, or am i stupid here?
Im Thinking Trans temp and Fuel Pressure.
Air/Fuel guages. Dont i need the air/fuel mixture thingy under my hood too, so mixtures cAN be made.
THANK YOU PLEASE POST. help!
#4
If you get mechanical gauges, you've got to run fluid lines to them. They're for engine compartments, not passenger compartments! Do folks use mechanical gauges inside their passenger compartments? Yes, but there are folks out there who earn nominations for the Annual Darwin Awards every day! If you're going to buy CHEAP gauges, you're better off without them altogether, IMHO.
Electrical gauges allow you to isolate fluids by running only thin electrical wires to your gauges. These are what you want! They're more expensive, but they are designed for the specific application you are considering.
If you're going to get an A/F meter, think twice. To get accurate readings, you need a top-line gauge that uses its own broad-band O2 sensor. Top-line gauges run $400 or more. The cheap ones that use your OEM O2 sensor are not accurate. They are pitifully slow, and they typically swing wildly back and forth between a full-lean and full-rich condition as your ECU wrestles to maintain the proper air/fuel mix with changing throttle positions. As you might guess, the cheap A/F meters afford no margin of safety should a dangerously lean condition develop. Your engine would probably blow a cork before the cheap A/F meter would clearly indicate a lean condition to you.
On the other hand, if all you want is a light show, a cheap A/F meter is definitely the way to go...
Electrical gauges allow you to isolate fluids by running only thin electrical wires to your gauges. These are what you want! They're more expensive, but they are designed for the specific application you are considering.
If you're going to get an A/F meter, think twice. To get accurate readings, you need a top-line gauge that uses its own broad-band O2 sensor. Top-line gauges run $400 or more. The cheap ones that use your OEM O2 sensor are not accurate. They are pitifully slow, and they typically swing wildly back and forth between a full-lean and full-rich condition as your ECU wrestles to maintain the proper air/fuel mix with changing throttle positions. As you might guess, the cheap A/F meters afford no margin of safety should a dangerously lean condition develop. Your engine would probably blow a cork before the cheap A/F meter would clearly indicate a lean condition to you.
On the other hand, if all you want is a light show, a cheap A/F meter is definitely the way to go...
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