I wish SOMEONE in WA State owned an SC'ed Max...their help would make things SOOO much easier.

But as far as I know, I will be the only (known on the org) SC'ed Max in WA State.....

Plus I only have a 6-8 hour time window each day to work on the car, and have 4 days total. Is that going to be enough for a V1 install?

I would like to hook up the Fuel Lines, T-Rex, FMU, and Hobbs Switch this weekend, ahead of time to make things go smoother when I install the S/C.

I saw someone mention that they did not connect the electrical on these components until the S/C was in, though they did the same as me, and installed it a week or two early....why? They talked of it like it was something they needed to do....(keep it disconnected)

Is there anything else I could do ahead of time to save time during the install days? Install Tranny Cooler? Power Steering lines?

Second, why does the relay have 4 positives going into it? (Hobbs/Fuel Pump relay).....How does a relay work with all positives? I see how to hook it up, and I know it would work, just don't know why! ---> www.cyberhub.net/sc/electrical.jpg

Also, anyone willing to give phone support with a 1-800 number??
Someone (ptatohead?) offered awhile ago, and I forgot who.

Thanks!
IanS

 

I can help ya...but I don't have an 800#

 

delio..aka "SC man *****" have a 24/7 1900 tech support on sc installs.

 

If I was makin cream on it life would be good...real good.

 

 

I am the one that did every little thing while the supercharger was at Vortech. I rerouted the power steering lines with the bent aluminum tube in front of the Radiator. I also hooked up the FMU but did not connect the power to the FMU. Also route the electrical wires and just when you install your blower connect the power to the FMU. I also moved the Fuse box back. That right there, that put me 3.5 hours ahead of schedule and yes I was driving the car around.
I hope that helps and puts you ahead as well.

 

Ian, its too bad I'm not closer to you so you can look at my setup. It can't be that much different than a V1, could it? Would any closeup pictures be of help to you or do you need to see it in person?

 

Ian, like we talked about, you can call me while I'm at work anytime you'd like (1-800-964-4274 x3161) but I have to admit, I may not be the biggest help with a V1. Del is definately your man for V1. And Jamie is the man to talk to about doing things ahead of time. But, in my personal opinion, I would not rush it. Don't put a time restraint on it. It's not worth it, this is too important. I would do things in order and take your time. But that's just me. Try looking at my V2 install instructions. There is quite a bit of overlap with the V1 and V2 so it my help you. Anyway, feel free to call, I'll try my best. I could even call Del for you and then call you back. Good luck.

 

My problem is that i have to have my car for work, and I have alloted (taking time off) June 12th-16th to do this.

I don't have my own garage, and the guy who is loaning me his garage goes on vacation on Sunday, the 17th. My ride to that guys house works at a dance club Wed-Saturday, and has to be home by 8pm, and won't wake up until noon or so. So I have from 1pm-7pm (alloting for travel time) each day to work on it....

unless someone from the NW can hang out after my ride leaves, help out, and give me a ride home.

So i will be doing the FMU and everything else I can this weekend, ahead of time to save time later.

JAY25 - Why didn't you just hook the electrical up in the first place? If i don't hook it up, will the fuel just pass straight through the turned off Auxilary Pump?

Thanks!
IanS

 

Yeah hook up the FMU you will still be able to use your car, just like I said do not hook up the wires to the FMU to give it power. As a matter of fact route all your wires as well and just use electrical tape and place them somewhere safe until you install your blower and then all you have to do is hook up the wires to the positive and negative terminals of the FMU and you can mark it prior to you installing it and thats one less thing you have to worry about. Yes your car will still get fuel so dont worry, car will be drivable with no power FMU. I hope I put you 2-4.5 hours ahead of schedule and that was my goal and I hope is yours

 

Anything to be as far ahead of schedule as possible. Thanks man.

Any other things I can do this weekend to get ahead of schedule?

It would be awesome to get all the things done this weekend with the exception of actually installing the SC...

Power Steering hose?

I figure I can't do the Coolant relocation with the Pop-Charger currently in the way?

IanS

 

The coolant relocation no I dont think you can do that one, because of the bracket. Also when you do hook the electrical part to the FMU it has a little postive and minus symbol. Just thought I let you know that.

Dont forget the Fuse box you have to scoot it back some.

 

Just read the instructions over. See what you can do. I think you have some shaving to do, correct? The alternator? The thermostat hose? The cooling fan? And yes, do the power steering hoses. You can also relocate the fuse box. Just read, I'm sure there are things. Good luck.

 

I have the Cartech Adjustable FMU. Anyone have the instrucitons on how it is adjusted?

I htought the FMU was mechanical, not electrical...are you tlaking about the inline pump?

IanS

 

I am under the impression you have the Vortech FMU and that one is electrical. Besides the point you should be able to still install it.

 

Don't touch the Cartech FMU since Loren probably left it untouched.

The big hex screw in the middle is for the base fuel pressure. The little **** on the side is for flow rate. Yes, you can hook this up since it's mechanical.

As Matt suggested in the other post (General forum - EGT gauge), don't play with the FMU until you're on a dyno that can monitor your A/F ratio.

Good luck!

 

Unfortunately, my friend already played with the dial on the FMU while looking at it.

When you say "On the side" is it literally on the side, or on top, off to the side? I don't see anything actually on the side!

IanS

 

Doh!

Im assuming you have this one:


Do you see the thing on the right? That adjusts the flow rate.

If you have the older version (it's a big clunky thing), then it should be on top.

 

Is this the old one?

IanS

 

I have Saturday off now Ian, so I may be able to stop by for a little while to help out...

 

You mean tomorrow or Saturday the 16th of June?

Or both!?

IanS

 

Looking closer:



This is the 20005 Model....says so on the bottom.

IanS

 

You have the older version.

You see that silver thing at the top of your picture? That adjusts the base fuel pressure. The gold thing adjusts the flow rate when boost kicks in.

If you friend played with the gold thing, be careful when boosting.

 

I meant next saturday...

 

Yes, but which part of the gold thing is adjustable?

Both the "hose" part sticking out of the side, and the top part of the gold thing turn. (see blue arrows)

Also, what hoses go on what specific part of the FMU? I'm assuming that the cut off hose on there is vacuum? If so, what is the gold hose connector on the top left (in pic) for? (see red circle)

On the bottom is fuel, I at least get that..heh.

IanS

 

Sorry. The blue arrow closest to the fuel pressure adjuster is the flow rate adjuster (when boost kicks in).

You hook up a vacuum line to the red circle. The black hose thingy bleeds out the boost to obtain your desired fuel pressure (leave that alone).

 

Next few questions:

3.25" Pulley = 1 or 2 step colder plugs?
Copper, or is Platinum necessary?
What are the Part Numbers?

Tranny Cooler = Hayden the best brand?
If so, what store carries them? I tried Action AutoParts and Schucks already. NAPA?

Is there a better Tranny Cooler for a comparable price?
What size should I get? (The small, medium, or heavy one?)
Will it fit in front of the radiator? (What is the placement?)

Tranny Oil (for VB Mod)
I just replaced my tranny fluid with Redline Synthetic a few months ago.
Is it OK to drain the fluid into a drain container and just reuse when done? At $10.00 a bottle, I'm trying to save some cash.

Thanks!
IanS

 

1 step colder is recommended. I ran with stock heat range plugs for the longest time on 3.25

Copper if you plan on changing them often like Matt. A bunch of us run platinum. Don't know the part number off the top of my head, but you'll find it if you use the search feature.

Hayden is not necessarily the best. Do you have a PepBoys in your area?

Check this out if you decide to get new tranny fluid:

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by iansw
[B]Next few questions:

3.25" Pulley = 1 or 2 step colder plugs?
Copper, or is Platinum necessary?
What are the Part Numbers?


In my case with the 3.25 pulley I had to go with 2 step colder plugs EGT was reading pretty high above or close to 800 degrees celsius. I just bought some cheap NGK copper plugs, part number BKR7E. Since I am leaving soon I packed up the platinum 1 step colder NGKs I can try to see if I can unpack them tomorrow if they are not at the bottom of the pile. But since your auto I dont think you ll hit 10PSI so you might just need to go 1 step colder.


I cant help you with the Auto Tranny cooler, since I dont have an Auto youll need to ask Cumalot I believe he has one on his car.

Also did you install the FMU and what else have you done?

 

Hmmm...

Would there be any disadvantage to going 2 step colder instead of 1 step when I'm at, say, 9PSI? Wouldn't it be safer to go 2-step anyway? WOuld there be a large hp loss ofr a danger I'm not aware of??

FMU, power steering lines, and fusebox move will be happening tomorrow. I spent today shopping for supplies and going down the list of what I need one by one.

And why does my sig pic show up in my older posts, but not my new ones?!

IanS

 

Ian, go to B&G, they have good prices on tranny coolers. Let me know, I may be able to get a discount if I tell them it's for a customers car (abuse of management privlege )

 

I bought the B&M Supercooler #70255 Plate and Fin type as the northwest weather isn't as brutal as SoCal and other mid-southern states.

 

Kevin at one time was running 9PSI he should give you your answer. 1 step colder should be good enough, if not pay close attention to your EGT gauge if you do get one.

 

platinum NGK 1 step colder Plug number is # PFR6G,

the copper 2 step colder part # BRR7E get those at NAPA for $1.89 a piece. The one step colder copper plug number is BKR6E-11, get those at NAPA thats the cheapest place to get copper plugs.

 

Interesting..here in WA, NAPA is by far the most expensive place to go. But they have cheaper plugs?

Courtesy sells them for $1.88, but shipping is another $10.

I'll check it out.

I still need to know whether or not to use 1 or 2 step colder, however....

IanS

 

Depending on which ones you want I can pick the copper one for you, assuming that the 1 step colder are the same price or if not cheaper, Ill ship them to you for less then $10 with the Napa receipt, more like $3-$4 for shipping. Let me know so if they dont have them in stock I can have them order them with out paying for them.

 

Well, let me check if the local NAPA has the same pricing first.

I still need to figure out if I need the 1 or 2 step colder first also!

 

3.25" Pulley = 1 or 2 step colder plugs?
Copper, or is Platinum necessary?
What are the Part Numbers?

**** I wouldn't think you should need anything beyond one-step colder.
You should use platinum wether you're supercharged or not.
Part number = NGK PFR6B-11








Tranny Cooler = Hayden the best brand?
If so, what store carries them? I tried Action AutoParts and Schucks already. NAPA? Is there a better Tranny Cooler for a comparable price?
What size should I get? (The small, medium, or heavy one?)
Will it fit in front of the radiator? (What is the placement?)

**** I wouldn't say it's the best but I will say you won't need anything better. Get the Hayden #1404 (almost always incorrectly called the #404 around here ??). Best price I found is $32:
http://www.dcflags.com/

Yes, in front of the radiator:
https://maxima.org/shoptalk/sub_modi...er/index.shtml









Tranny Oil (for VB Mod)
I just replaced my tranny fluid with Redline Synthetic a few months ago.
Is it OK to drain the fluid into a drain container and just reuse when done? At $10.00 a bottle, I'm trying to save some cash.

**** Regarding the cooler or the VB mod? With the cooler, two drops come out, litterally. With the VB mod, yes you need to drain and fill. I've never heard of anyone re-using drained fluid/oil but I imagine you could if it is not old. Use a clean pan and don't let any dust or any debris get in the fluid while it is out of the car.

Thanks!

**** You're welcome. Hope I helped.

IanS

 

Yes you did! Thanks!

We replaced the Power Steering lines yesterday, and had planned to do the Fuel, but I can't figure out where to tap into for the fuel lines! Besides, the PS lines took 4 hours, but we weren't trying that hard to go for any speed records. (lots of breaks and looking around at other parts of the car and just BS'ing about the future install).

For fuel, I see the in port connects to the fuel rail on the rear side of the engine and the return line comes out at the front side, correct?

But where to tap into? Also, my Pop-Charger gets in the way of the FMU, and since this FMU is taller than the Vortech, it does not fit in the recomended place anyway, so I need to figure all that out.

Do I tap into the hard steel lines or just the rubber lines going to/from the hard lines?

Also, I was looking and can't see how to remove the idler pulley to get started on the SC Install. there's NO space in there!

And I still have to shave my alternator, install the guages, etc, etc....

This is going to suck! But it will be worth it, I hope!
IanS

 

Like I said before, read my V2 write-up!!! There is a lot of overlap that could be of use to you. Yes the fuel lines are tricky! It is a jungle and very easy to get confused. I had a difficult time just writing about it! But anyway, read my write-up for step #30:

http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...=181995&page=7




And regarding the idler pulley, once again, read my write-up (that's why I spent the countless hours writing it!). See steps #9/#10:

http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...=181995&page=5

The 1996 Factory Service manual has a great diagram (MA-10). See my Apppendix:

http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...181995&page=15

(Same as Chilton's 1-21)


Good luck Ian. Feel free to ask any more questions.

-Josh