Colonel

I have automatic climate control. There no longer seems to be any variation. I have like 1 degree of variation. I suspected issues earlier with the A/C part now the heat does the same thing.

At display 60 degrees, it blows cold. At 61 it blows so hot I have to turn it off. With the AC at 78 it was blowing ice cold and at 79 it gave up and blew hot. It did not do this previously as I did have a range of hot-->cold.

Also anybody else notice this? When your automatic climate is off (no display) and then you just hit the mode button, it comes on and blow more than when it does off? Plus you can adjust the temp (as much as I can anyway) with out fan icon coming on... Is this a "feature" or a glitch?

Thanks for info.

releasedtruth

Not an answer, but a thank Jeebus that I didn't get the climate control. I've had it in my last 2 cars, but I noticed the same thing. I like having 4 settings and a slider for temp, then I get just what I want. But yes, I've seen it in the Max and other cars. Something in the sensor just loses sensitivity, not sure why

TimW

iTrader: (6)

Have access to a FSM?

There is a diagnostic mode you can access (no scantool needed). Its a lengthy procedure, but it will check the sensors, motors and most importantly the 'auto amp' and potentio temp control. Basically they process the input of the sensors and feed that to the brain of the auto climate control. Get this, over its own mini LAN. Anywho... I think you could self diag it with the FSM there. Its like 5-6 pages, but easy to follow.


The sensors are easy to check, they are just resistors and you can see what they are reading based on temp with a multitestor. There is a chart in the FSM.

Colonel

Why yes I do...I will read up on it and give it a whirl. Thanks Tim!

Colonel

92drexel

I think your problem may be normal. I'm assuming that 60 degrees and 79 degrees are the lowest and highest settings on your auto climate control?

I think 60 degrees blows cold no matter what and 79 degrees blows hot no matter what. So if its 32 degrees outside and you want cold air blowing on you (for instance to keep you awake and alert if you're driving late at night). Then turning your control to 60 degrees would be equivalent to the "COLD" setting on a non-auto climate control car.

Likewise, suppose your car is running a little hot on a 100 degree day while your stuck in traffic and you want to "vent" some of this heat away from your engine. Then turning the climate control to the highest setting would blow hot air (even if the outside temp is blistering hot).

If this is a design thing, then Nissan should probably change the 60 setting to read "Max Cold" and the 79 setting to read "Max Hot".

Also, hitting the "Mode" button is a vent feature. That is, air will only blow in when the car is moving. The amount of air blowing in depends on how fast you're driving. That's my guess anyway.

TimW

iTrader: (6)

How odd, mine is 65 and 85. but you are correct, the max and min will cool or heat regardless, its in the manual.

Colonel

When I am at 60, it blows cold (not just cool) air. When I adjust to 61 it blows hot (and I mean boil your face off hot).

I do understand that the AC/Heat will blow with the intensity to get the CABIN that temp. But when this was occuring, the out side temp, was 65 and car had been moving for quite awhile.

Previous to this issue it was a gradual change in "temp feel" between the numbers. Now its just like its COLD or HOT...no in between.

92drexel

Hmmmm, weird. I would get it checked out. Esp since the outside temp was only 65. I'm curious...when you punch your AMB button, does it give you an unusually low or high reading? Maybe one of your thermocouples is bad.

Tim: My auto climate control ranges from 65 - 85 too (y2k). I think Nissan changed this in 2001 or 2002.

Colonel

I had time this weekend to perform the diags on the climate control AMP. It was actually cool. It showed a failure on the interior temp sensor. It showed it as either close or open fault. Mine in particular is a close fault failure.

If you want to do it, its easy and only takes about 5 minutes to diag the whole system. This thing checks, displays, sensors, motors, and door sensors. Shows fault codes and has the break down as step 13 and 14. I like it. My FSM has already paid for itself...he he.

TimW

iTrader: (6)

I feel kinda bad, someone had a problem with theirs a few weeks ago and I looked at the overview and said it was too complicated to explain.. I totally missed that diag proc at the time.

Colonel

Well on first read it looks complicated...but sitting down and reading it without doing it made it much easier. I will say 1 thing. It is over explained. The first part in each step explains what it does and THEN it goes step by step on how to do it. Once I figured that out, it was cake.

Anyone that does this, make sure to heed the doing it in sunlight warning. It will give you a false error on the sunload sensor and trip a 25 error light.

DAVEB

iTrader: (133)

Might wanna PM mdeal. I know he had a similar problem & I think he said the incar sensor turned out to be the prob- I't been a few months, so I could be wrong. At any rate, he did semm very knowledgeable about the system.

Colonel

First of all....SUPER PROPS to Falhaber Nissan in Cincinnat for SUPERIOR service. I have been complaining about the service of Kings for months and dreaded this issue. Falhaber has a Nissan service award (wow does such a thing exist?) and they lived up to expectation.

I told them about the fault code and he said he really needed the "paper" from the consult to order the part. He suggested I just drop by and they will run the "paper" real quick to get the part on order. Mind you he has about a three day backlog on service because the earliest I could get my car in for replacement seatbelt is Thursday. And I called noon last Friday.

Well, about an hour later the car is returned to me, no charge, but with some suspicion. A connector was "bent" and caused the fault code. It was diagnosed as human error. Which I could believe if I knew where the sensor was (seeing as the morons at Kings replaced stuff and where in areas they should not have been). But the tech went on break as soon as my car was delivered so I will find out Thursday (seatbelt replacement). I want to know which part was bad as I have a large "I am angry letter" for Kings management.

Plus if I get a "how was service" I want to show Nissan they do have some competent dealerships out there. I finally found one!

So it is still up in the air as to if the sensor plug was damaged or some "other" plug was damaged.

TimW

iTrader: (6)

feels good huh? imagine if every visit was like that. imagine....

sup with your s.belt?

Colonel

Tell ya what Tim..it was my first time...and I LIKE it. he he

Sensor failed in the seat belt so it set off the airbag sensor. Have to replace the entire assembly. Of course frost is the only color SB that they did not have and had to order it.

Think bringin in donuts would be to cheesy (I have to drop it off and leave it for the SB replacement on Thurs morning)? I am just so happy that NONE of my interior parts were damaged! [does the happy dance]

mdeal

iTrader: (2)

My problem ended up being a loose connection of the harness going into the LAN (all sensor wires go into a LAN before going into the climate control unit) and I am pretty sure it never was a sensor, after replacing a few. Problem free for the past 2~3 months after pretty regular "episodes".

Which connector was "bent"? On the in-vehicle sensor?

By the way, I would get different open and closed readings (in diag mode) if I did not perform the test in direct sunlight or in the late evening just before dark. The sunload sensor would mess everything up, since direct sunlight is one of the determining factors in calculating how much air to blow, and it ultimately had some effect on the diag test.

Colonel

Dunno as the tech left and I did not get an answer. Where is the in vehicle sensor? I should know Thursday which "connector" was bent.

I did the test with and w/o sun to see what would be different. With sun, just threw a 22 code. W/O sun threw a 22 and a 25. Also in the temp section inside temp reading was a -22

mdeal

iTrader: (2)

I believe the -22 means sensor not plugged in. I removed my dash sensor and did the diag procedure and it gave the same temp reading, IIRC, as I was experimenting.

The in-vehicle sensor is to the right of the steering wheel below the gauge cluster. It's behind those little vent holes.

There is another in-vehicle sensor down near the fan and junk but I never took the glove box out to find it (problem got fixed before researching that one). I forget the name of the sensor but it is inside the vehicle.

Colonel

Hmmm, that might be the one. As there were greasy fingerprints everywhere by the dash. Which is no biggie to me, cause it all cleans off. Its when damage happens that fuels me.

MarkF

I have a similar problem on my 01 AE. I can no longer leave the temp at 71*. I get cold air blowing at any temp unless it is the max 85* (consistent with the above posts).

Based on the posts I'm assuming it is one or both of the interior sensors, but I'd love to run the diagnostic. Can anyone scan and e-mail it to me?

I'm going to search for the sensors tonight to see if they are unplugged or something is obviously wrong. I read one is to right of the steering column and the other is below the glove box by the blower. I should also mention that my blower is making tons of noise, it was already replaced about 1.5 years ago and now the replacement is crapping out. Probably not related but I figured I'd mention it.

PressureDrop

I'm having this same issue in my wife's car. The auto system has ALWAYS been flawless but now it seems to stick or have little difference in the output air based on the setting. What is this 'FSM' ? Anyone in Atlanta have one and wanna help me out? I guess we'll prolly have to take this thing in to the dealer unless someone has a better suggestion.

-Zac-

m00se

I've had the fan blower motor replaced twice under warranty on my 2kse. The first time the service writer tried to tell me tissue or something must have fallen behind the glove box. Of course there was no way for that to have happened. The second time around I only had to mention that the noise had returned and they replaced without question. Both of these went out within a year of each other. I've since traded the car but wonder if I would have had to fight with them again had it gone out a third time now that the initial warranty was over.

Just hoping I won't have this issue with the '04 but not holding my breath.