Hey everybody,

I have some questions about Dynamat type applications in cars. I have found (through the .org) a really good substitute for Dynamat called "Peel and Seal". It's cheap as dirt compared to Dynamat, but it looks to do the same thing. I will find out soon. Anyway, my question is really sortof multi-faceted. Do you think that if I removed all of the door panels and lined the inside of them with this application, do you think I would notice not only an improvement in the way my system sounds, but in the level of road noise as well? I'm curious, but I want to know if anyone has tried this before I commit my time/money/door panels. I will of course be lining the trunk for my sub as well.

 

If you spent more than $2000 on you system, I'd say it's a worth while investment if you value Lexus-like isolation. I'm not sure you'll get that, but it will make it better.

-vq

 

Not to hijack the parent post, but how difficult is it to put this stuff on? Is there a method to it, or do you just stick it on.

 

I haven't actually done it yet. I just went and bought the stuff today on my lunch break. Basically its a peel and stick type application. There is a paper backing that you peel off to reveal an adhesive. You stick that side on your door/trunk, whatever, and the side that shows is aluminum, just like Dynamat. Whether it works the same is yet to be seen, but at the price if it does it will be WELL worth the time/money/labor. You can take a look at the website for the product I purchased here:

http://www.mfmbp.com/peelseal/index.htm

Of course our application is nowhere near what the product was designed for, but who cares? It will work!

 

One more thing...When putting this stuff on, should you put on multiple layers, or is one layer usually good enough?

 

peel and seal is good stuff, it sticks pretty well and the smell goes away after a while. Dynamat Xtreme is the best stuff, but for the price you can't go wrong with what you've got. Make sure you overlap when you lay it down, clean the surfaces, the most difference you'll hear is in the trunk lid and deck lid. The deck lid is a serious pain, but worth it if you have rattles there. Take your time, I used a little heat just because I had my gfs mega hair dryer on hand and it does make it stickier, but it will form nicely in rounded corners. If you need to, lay it down, check your sound, then do some more. Multiple layers will help as well, but no need to go overboard, you're eliminating rattles, not quieting the car that much

 

Awesome! Thanks for your advice! Yeah, I have a LOT of problems with rear deck lid/trunk lid rattles. I hope this will eliminate a lot of that.

 

OMG! I just unwrapped a roll of this stuff!! P-U!!! This stuff STINKS to high heaven!!! Does Dynamat smell that bad??? Now I know why the primary use for this stuff is roofing! Oh well, the thickness is better than I had thought, and I'm sure it will do wonders in the trunk. I'm not so sure I want to put it in the cabin now, though. That stuff is gonna give me a headache installing it, I just know it. HAHA.

 

What did you expect a rose garden?

Wait unti you heat it!

I really didn't notice the smell that much but my Accord friend said it stunk for 1-2 days. Well worth the stink!

Oh, I just did one layer. It was a pretty big job and I don't think that putting another layer would have made that much of a difference. Then again, I guess I'm lazy.

 

It's tar based I think so it takes a while to cure and you will still smell it a little months later when it heats up, but it'll be much better. Dynamat is more butyl based so it smells almost not at all, but is mad more coin.

You'll like the results, if not the odor. If it's mostly in the trunk, it's better. Once you do the doors, if at all, then you get that nice "smells like azz" taste in your mouth.

 

but I used 'brown bread' (do a search..me too lazy right now) which is MUCH cheaper than Dynamat, LOTS cheaper and NO SMELL.

I did the doors, rear seat floor pan area as well as the trunk floor and measured (if I recall) just over a 1 dB reduction in road noise with a hand-held decibel meter...

 

I installed Dynamat Xtream last week and what a diffrence I got. I love it and Im happy I payed for it. You pay for what you get they say. THis stuff doesnt have an oder at all, and my subs are playing great and I have no ratteling at all.

Check out page 3 of my webpage for pics

 

I'm glad you got rid of your rattles with no sound. However, if it cost you $200 to do that, I'd say putting up with a slight smell for a few days is worth it if I only have to spend $40. In general I would agree with the expression you get what you pay for, but in this case paying $200 for something you can get for $40 that does the same job (per other people on the board) is pretty crazy to me. I guess I will see for myself when it's all done.

 

LMAO!

 

Trust me its not going to do anything compared to Dynamat Xtreme

 

So many problems with that post I don't even know where to begin...

1.) You don't know what you're talking about. You have no objective experience with both products. Yeah, I'm gonna "Trust you"...

2.) "...it's not going to do anything compared to Dynamat Xtreme." Okay..It's material to deaden sound...Both are asphalt based materials. What does Dynamat Xtreme do that mine wont?? Does yours wash your car for you or something? LOL "do anything..."

3.) You paid $200.00 for "DYNAMAT XTREME" Of course you are going to defend your purchase when someone comes on here and says they can do the same thing for $40. OBVIOUSLY yours must be superior, despite the several other people that have posted success stories with the "inferior" product. I guess as long as you keep telling yourself that yours is better, it will be. In your mind anyway. In the end, I won't have any rattles and neither will you. I will have spent $40, you $200. If my stuff smells, it will be in the trunk regardless, and others have posted that the smell will go away. I think I've made my point.

 

Why are you so anti Peel and Seal Blazin 2k Max. Dont be bitter because you spent $200+ and Mr College Guy spent $40 for the same ****.

 

Im with you on this one bro. I'm going to pick up some of this stuff today. Make sure you keep us posted on how the install go's and some pics too if you would.

 

Will do! I'm gonna try and do it this weekend. I will let everyone know.

 

Pretty smart for a college guy...must be a grad student!

Yea, I don't agree that it will do nothing. It improved the quality of my sound (and my friend's Accord) dramatically. However, you will get a lot more force into the cabin (less wasted on the trunk) so make sure you address the rear deck. Again, for that I would look at egg crates.

Funny, in my friend's Accord his rear deck didn't rattle at all. Once we Peal&Sealed his trunk it started to rattle. The bass must have been 2x as loud as it was before at the same volume!

 

I have some peel and seal and some fat mat extreme in my car. I'll tell ya, the peel and seal stuck better, the fat mat is coming up in places. It made a real difference in my setup. With the 2 subs in the wheel well I was rattling everything and now it's even more quiet on the outside. Well worth the cost, smelled like poo, but that's all but gone. You'll like the change, and if not, no worries, you didn't pay 200 bones for it!

 

LOL exactly! I'm very excited. Everyone that has used peel and seal has had nothing but good things to say about it, other than the temporary stank. Did you do just your trunk, or did you do your doors too? What did you do about the rear deck?

 

Dude, that's AWESOME! I'm hoping it will make all the bass seem tighter too. less boomy. So as a general rule of thumb, should you just lift the carpet out and cover every inch of metal underneath, as well as the entire trunk lid? As far as the rear deck goes, why can't I just use more peel and seal instead of egg crate? I would think the egg crate would absorb some of the bass. I sent you an email by the way SPTA97.

 

No e-mail yet, but here goes:

Overall the bass seemed MUCH tighter and less boomy. I would take all the carpet out (including the side walls) and keep a mental note of how high it goes up on the walls so you don't have any of the peal & seal exposed. Try and get as much covered as you can (keep a good pair of scisors with some Afta (grease and goo remover) and a cloth handy to clean them out when they get gummed up from the asphalt. Just try and trim around the holes for the clips and what not.

I little trick I learned is take some of the backing (the "peal") and use it as a template to get the sections to fit nicely. From what I have read (and experianced) it's not critical to get every square inch but you want to cover as much as possible.

I did my trunk lid and still got a vibration from the outside so I shoved the egg crates in there which helped a lot. I still have a slight rattle from the outside but I was able to cure about 95% of the inside rattle. If you do the trunk lid make sure you measure up the carpet cover so you don't have any exposed when you're done.

As far as the rear deck, the reason I didn't use the peal&seal is because I was afraid to melt my tint with the heat gun. Also, it is a very crapmed area to work in and the egg crates worked awesome. My rear deck is now sitting about 1/2" higher than it was but you can't tell it's not supposed to be that way. I only used the front clips and left the ones on the rear deck out with the "B" pillars actually holding it down. Now that I think about it, you can probably get away with not using a heat gun on the rear deck (flat surface, no chance of it falling).

If you remove the Bose sub (which was the BEST thing I ever did) it will create a nice bass port in the rear deck. My bass is out of control so I really didn't care if the egg crates soaked up some of it!

Oh, another thing to remember is that these types of materials are meant to minimize resonation of the metal materials. If you have mechanical sound (2 pieces physically hitting each other during low bass) you will have to stop that (ie: egg crates).

 

Awesome. Thanks for the thoughtful reply. I will remember everything you said when I actually do it this weekend. Thanks again!