In the process of swapping stock tweeters w/polk 3500's.. Install questions!
#1
In the process of swapping stock tweeters w/polk 3500's.. Install questions!
Which wire is pos and which is neg on the stock wires connecting to the tweeter? Ones black and ones white.
I'm assuming that the black is the ground, however in TimW's pictures he appears to have the black wire connected to the red stripped wire for the polk tweeter which is the postive.
I'm assuming that the black is the ground, however in TimW's pictures he appears to have the black wire connected to the red stripped wire for the polk tweeter which is the postive.
#3
Originally posted by IceY2K1
IIRC white is positive and black is negative, but the passenger side isn't the same colors. Just go with the same pin/terminal as the drivers.
IIRC white is positive and black is negative, but the passenger side isn't the same colors. Just go with the same pin/terminal as the drivers.
#4
Originally posted by UCF_94lude
So the wire that runs through the little built-in capacitor on the stock tweeter is always going to be the positive and the wire that doesnt is the negative correct?
So the wire that runs through the little built-in capacitor on the stock tweeter is always going to be the positive and the wire that doesnt is the negative correct?
Sounds correct, but I don't remembe for sure. I'll double check tonight if I remember and it's not too late.
#6
Originally posted by HerBlue2kSE
Where did you get your tweets? I missed them on Ebay and cannot find them now.
Thanks!
Travis
Where did you get your tweets? I missed them on Ebay and cannot find them now.
Thanks!
Travis
http://www.carstereotime.com/polk/ex3500.html
#9
Originally posted by HerBlue2kSE
Thanks! I think this is a must have mod of the Max!
Thanks! I think this is a must have mod of the Max!
Must have mod??? Components are a must have mod... changing out just the tweets is, IMO, a waist of time.
#10
Originally posted by iLLin-2k1
Must have mod??? Components are a must have mod... changing out just the tweets is, IMO, a waist of time.
Must have mod??? Components are a must have mod... changing out just the tweets is, IMO, a waist of time.
Plus, who said we were just changing out the tweets?
#13
Originally posted by iLLin-2k1
Must have mod??? Components are a must have mod... changing out just the tweets is, IMO, a waist of time.
Must have mod??? Components are a must have mod... changing out just the tweets is, IMO, a waist of time.
#14
Originally posted by TimW
and you tried this or just assuming? unless youre tone deaf, doing just one side and hearing the difference is amazing.
and you tried this or just assuming? unless youre tone deaf, doing just one side and hearing the difference is amazing.
I'm assuming the stockers were so bad that I couldn't even notice the sound stage, but with the Polks I could.
Plus, I turned down the "treble" setting and the doors seemed to like it better, while the tweets stayed nice and bright. I think the Polk crossover is able to cut out unwanted frequencies better, so I send less treble, ie more mid/bass to the doors. At least the fronts.
#15
Originally posted by ZAJOBA
Is Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 component system good choice ?
are they gonna fit ?
linky
Is Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 component system good choice ?
are they gonna fit ?
linky
I'm at work right now and ebay is filtered through the firewall... Depends on how much you want to spend? But I would definitely get a component "set" for the front. Not just buying tweeters and then some coaxials for the front doors. Do it right and get a 6.5" component set for your fronts and then put the coaxials in the back. But if you do it right you will spend more money cause then you will need a 4/ch amp for your speakers. (Front components/rear coaxials) But I guess other people's opinion in doing it right would consist of locating the tweets in kick panels.... Good luck with wutever you do!
#16
Originally posted by TimW
and you tried this or just assuming? unless youre tone deaf, doing just one side and hearing the difference is amazing.
and you tried this or just assuming? unless youre tone deaf, doing just one side and hearing the difference is amazing.
The white wire passed through the small capacitor on the OEM tweets, so that would definetely be the positive correct?
#17
Originally posted by UCF_94lude
Tim, do you remember when you did the tweeter swap if you used the white stock wire being the positive and the black the negative? Kinda hard to tell from the pics.
The white wire passed through the small capacitor on the OEM tweets, so that would definetely be the positive correct?
Tim, do you remember when you did the tweeter swap if you used the white stock wire being the positive and the black the negative? Kinda hard to tell from the pics.
The white wire passed through the small capacitor on the OEM tweets, so that would definetely be the positive correct?
On the drivers' side, the white is positive and the black is negative, if the cap is on the white then it confirms that's the pos terminal. As long as you hook up pos/neg from the car to the crossover correctly, I don't think it matters really which terminal you choose on the tweet. However, I'd just go with what the Polk instructions say just incase.
#18
Sorry, I dont remember, but the old cap will be on the (+) wire.
yeah, I did turn down the highs too. Or fade one notch to back. Either worked fine. I didnt have a problem from L-R tho.
iLLin, of course replacing the door speakers with components will sound better, thats not in question.
its basically $65 for probably 50%-75% improvement in the Bose without buying a PAC for $55 and amp for no less than 100 and separates for what? $150-300? Sure, even doing all that is worth every penny.. not in question.. but if you only want to drop a small amount of money, you just cant beat this mod for value and return on your small 'investment'.
yeah, I did turn down the highs too. Or fade one notch to back. Either worked fine. I didnt have a problem from L-R tho.
iLLin, of course replacing the door speakers with components will sound better, thats not in question.
its basically $65 for probably 50%-75% improvement in the Bose without buying a PAC for $55 and amp for no less than 100 and separates for what? $150-300? Sure, even doing all that is worth every penny.. not in question.. but if you only want to drop a small amount of money, you just cant beat this mod for value and return on your small 'investment'.
#19
Originally posted by TimW
Sorry, I dont remember, but the old cap will be on the (+) wire.
yeah, I did turn down the highs too. Or fade one notch to back. Either worked fine. I didnt have a problem from L-R tho.
iLLin, of course replacing the door speakers with components will sound better, thats in question.
its basically $65 for probably 50%-75% improvement in the Bose without buying a PAC for $55 and amp for no less than 100 and separates for what? $150-300? Sure, even doing all that is worth every penny.. not in question.. but if you only want to drop a small amount of money, you just cant beat this mod for value and return on your small 'investment'.
Sorry, I dont remember, but the old cap will be on the (+) wire.
yeah, I did turn down the highs too. Or fade one notch to back. Either worked fine. I didnt have a problem from L-R tho.
iLLin, of course replacing the door speakers with components will sound better, thats in question.
its basically $65 for probably 50%-75% improvement in the Bose without buying a PAC for $55 and amp for no less than 100 and separates for what? $150-300? Sure, even doing all that is worth every penny.. not in question.. but if you only want to drop a small amount of money, you just cant beat this mod for value and return on your small 'investment'.
FYI...my Bose settings Treble +5 Bass +3 Fader +1 (to the back)
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