Hi Guys, need some help.
I just installed slotted dimpled roters, Goodrich ss lines, and stillen pads with Motul synthetic fluid.
The brake is soft, i dont think the front brakes are grabbing well and the brakes are pulsating in the front. I bleed the brakes by having my fried step on the brake until fluid comes out of the valve. As soon as it comes out I tighted the valve. I also did the correct order rr,rl,fl,fr. What could the problem be? air in the system perhaps? What's the correct procedure to bleed system?
Please help!!

Thanks

 

I actually ask to "pump" the pedal several times, then step & hold and only then I loosen valve to bleed fluid. I let pedal almost reach the floor and tighten valve. Only then he is allowed to relax . Good check if you have air in lines: "pump" pedal while engine is OFF - it should feel firmer with each "pump" to the almost brick level. If it stays soft - bleed your brakes. I took my calipers couple times off and that air wasn't coming out from the first/single pump.

 

ahh ok, I was bleeding the valve simultanously when the pedal was pressed. I will try bleeding while brake is pressed in the morning. Thanks Max_5gen!!

 

Get a bleed kit so you can see when the bubbles stop coming from the bleed valve. They cost about 6$.

 

ok still no luck, just tried to bleed them again. I used a clear tube and
bleed them until I did not see any bubbles come out of the valve. how much should I bleed them? and how much fluid should I need to use?

one more question, do I need to disconnect the abs actuater? if so where and how?

Thanks

 

I think, half the bottle (150-200 grams) should be enough for fronts. Don't forget to keep brake fluid level at brake fluid reservoir, otherwise you'll have to do it again. I've never disconnected ABS actuator.

 

I think I am ok with the brake pressure and bleeding now.
Problem #2
I am getting heavy break hop or pulsing in the front. What could it be
now?

 

just got done trying to figure out what the heavy pulsing might be with my buddy who helped me with the install, and it may be that we did not put any shims on the back of the pads when putting on the new stillen pads. Could that be the cause? Did anybody else use or not use the shims on the back of thier pads?

Any help is greatly appreciated guys!

Thanks

 

I don't think that shims or lack thereof can cause any brake pulsation. I've read somewhere that another name for them is "heat shields" and it makes sense actually - they increase heat resistance keeping caliper piston away from direct contact with hot pad and your brake fluid - from boiling. If you assembled everything right it shouldn't pulsate unless, of course you happen to get bad rotors. If you still have stock rotors around you can try to put them back to check if it makes any difference. This assumes that you have put the rest of the things back the way they were before.

 

oh boy!! I think you might be right about the bad rotors even though they are brand new. When I had the car jaked, I spun the wheel and I could hear an intermitting scraping or grabbing sound from the pads. Well when I get out of work I will swap back to the old rotors see what happens.

thanks!

 

Maybe you can check for rust on the mating surface between the hub and the rotor. My brake pulsation went away after I used a steel brush to clean the surface really well. Also, rotor indexing may help.

 

did you bed the brakes after installing the pads? the pulsation may be coming from that. if you didn't bed the brakes than pad material can be worn off unevenly and create a kind of snowball effect on your rotors.

 

This sux!
I just replaced one of the rotors back with the oem and everything is fine now. Brand new rotor and its severely warped. I got them as a gift from the group deal a few months ago from race concepts, I dont even think I could return it since its been so long and I have no reciept.
Now I need one new rotor, any recomendations?