You can change the fulcrum point by loosening the nut on the back of the fork. Do not remove the fork, simply twist the rod that goes into the firewall.

When you do this the spring raises itself to a different point. Under the stock clutch height, the spring is under load and when you press you are feeling the pressure of the spring get tighter and tighter. When you lower the clutch height (fulcrum point) then you reduce the intial load on the spring. Now when you press the clutch there is some play in the beginning but it tightens up in the end. To put the clutch under load from the spring, the spring will have to be moved (I am currently working on that).

Are there any side effects from doing this. No (besides the sloppy clutch). The clutch will not burn up any faster. Adjusting the fulcrum point for the clutch pedal WILL NOT affect the clutch plate inside the tranny. The rod that goes into the firewall is not moved or relocated by this adjustment.

After playing with the adjustment, I found that moving the clutch back till it just touches the tip of the cruise control sensor is the ideal location for the pedal. This is right before the spring becomes unloaded and makes for a sloppy feel.

I need someone to host my video. Once the vid is posted I will detail everything I did. 30.9MB mpeg2. PM me for hosting the video. I can give you the link to download it

 

John, Maxima is a Cable style Clutch not Hydrolic. Reducing the distance (Position 2) will reduce the distance the throwout bearing is able to push the pressure plate causing the disc not to get far enough from the flywheel.

The short clutch feel is good b/c the disc is closter to the flywheel, Side Effect to this is a faster burning clutch.

Oh yeah, eventually when the clutch starts to burn down, the syncros on the tranny are next when it'll be very hard to shift from gear to gear.

 

I wanna hear more on this subject. seems interesting but if it indeed does make for a faster wearing clutch then I dont see a need to do it. I assume it will work on a 6th gen?

 

There seems to be alot of different way to do this, and I'm a bit confused........are they all the same with same result? Or is one way better than the other?

 

I'm also waiting for a final consensus on this...

 

The Maxima clutch is hydraulic.

This mod only changes the pedal position. Nothing else.

The clutch will be in the same position as it was stock.

Do not do this mod if you drive your 6spd by pressing the clutch all the way to the floor. You will find that all that extra space behind the engagement point will be gone.

 

John I don't know about your car, But the last time I looked under my hood, The arm on the transmission was Cable type not Slave Cylinder/Hydrolic type. If you are reffereing to the Clutch master cylinder under the hood, thats for the Clutch Pedal, not the whole clutch system. The piece that makes the clutch work is cable driven not Hydrolic. Only the Clutch Master Cylinder is Hydrolic.

Now, Reducing the Pedal Travel is not a good thing, The burning of clutch is not while sitting idle, but its while shifting. The pedal travel is now 1 - 1 1/2 inch shorter not allowing the Throwout bearing to push the pressure plate far enough to properly Disengage the Disc from the Flywheel (Causing the Clutch Burning Smell)

Like I said, There's a reason why the free play is on the pedal. (Floor Mats, Shorter legs, not wanna press clutch Pedal all the way)

 

This will give you guys an Idea of what's going on here.

 

Maxima Clutch Looks somthing like the top Picture.

1) Fork Presses on the Throwout Bearing
2) Throwout Bearing presses on the Pressure Plate
3) Pressure plate springs press and the plate is pulled away from Clutch Disc
4) Disc is Free now and you are able to shift.

Making the free play shorter, Shortens the Distance the throwout bearing can push against the Pressure plate Causing you to eventually burn your clutch out since the Disc can't get far enough from the Flywheel and Pressure plate During Shifts.

 

I have to agree with Pioneer on this one. The maxima clutch is a cable type system. Doesn't matter if the pedal system is hydraulic or not.
Your pedal is pulling on a cable which in turn pushes a fork that pulls the clutch plate away from the flywheel. That's how it's disengaging. The clutch pedal is getting shorter and the engagement point is shorter because the clutch plate IS being pushed closer to the flywheel to reduce the travel.
It may not be fully engaged, but still close enough to the point where heat doesn't dissipate enough.
Think about this, if it's not getting closer where did all that freeplay you had before go?

 

Do you actually press your clutch pedal all the way to the floor everytime you shift?

I also meant to say the clutch pedal is hydraulic not the clutch. Sorry for not clarifying earlier. Either way none of that comes into play here. If I bend the clutch pedal arm to a position that is better, is that going to make the clutch burn up to? If so how?

Show me a cable that connects to the clutch pedal arm. Pictures are necessary.

 

The extra space on the clutch travel that is being removed by this mod is there for a reason. It is there to prevent the typical lazy driver from burning out the clutch because they don't get the pedal all the way to the floor.
For those who are more deliberate about their driving, that extra space only increases shift time.
This is a safe mod as long as you are someone who cares about how they drive.
I did this same thing to my previous car (toyota supra) and put 40k on the clutch afterwards before selling the car at 130K with the original clutch still in place.

 

This is easy, Let me put it to you this way.

For Example

The distance between the Flywheel and Pressure plate is 2inches
The Clutch Pedal In Factory Location Moves that Full 2 INches down in Transmision

Now YOu hack that 1 inch of free play out of the picture..
Now when you press the clutch, insted of moving 2 inches down in the transmission, its moving 1 inch, And since its not moving far enough, While you shift, its not fully releasing the Clutch Disc from Flywheel/plate b/c its not going far enough.

Oh yeah, I don't press My Clutch Pedal all the way, but now that you have hacked the Free Play in your clutch, I bet you are having to press the clutch more then you did before.

 

If you look at the pictures above, they are from a ToYoTa SUPRA (7M-GE) (7M_GTE)

 

One more thing. Your Hand Brake (E-Brake). That has some free play too, Image driving around with your hand brake just 1 link up and tell me how long the pads last in the back.

 

None of that matters. The area of pedal movement that is removed by this mod is behind the engagement point. Nothing is done under hood and the rod that connects to the clutch pedal arm remains in the same position.

My clutch engages and disengages exactly how it did before except the pedal is farther down to the carpet. That's it. Nothing in the tranny has changed.

Before I even posted anything, I tested this by setting the pedal adjustment to the lowest possible setting. I started the car with clutch pressed in. Put in reverse with no hand brake or foot brake. The car did not move at all. Now the clutch did engage much quicker coming off the floor but I totally expected that. Is this mod safe - absolutely. Does it affect the tranny, clutch plate, throw out bearing, flywheel, engine, clutch life, etc., no.

And if you don't believe any of this, experiment yourself.

BTW, the clutch pedal at the lowest possible setting caused the pedal to feel very sloppy. The intial stroke down was to easy, almost floppy. It would be very easy to ride around and burn up the clutch because the weight of the clutch pedal would keep the clutch partially engaged.

 

I doubt that travel is there for lazy drivers. That's why they have automatics. For lazy drivers, or people who don't care about manuals, or other reasons not to want a manual.
That travel is there so you don't damage your clutch.

 

So if your theory is correct, i should be able to adjust the pedal all the way to the floor and give it a total of 2 inch of travel (space necessary for the clutch to engage). Then when as soon as i release the pedal, the clutch is fully engaged; like a 6puck disk on a supra. And still enough room for shifting and such?
If your theory is correct, then that should work because the pedal travel has nothing to do with the rest of the clutch system.

 

John I don't think you can make this call safely. Automakers put free play in all Manual transmissions. I Wonder Why

And its not for the lazy driver who rests their foor on the clutch. Thats why you have a Dead Pedal...

 

I don't press the clutch more now than I did before. Why? Because I always pressed the clutch all the way when shifting. That's why I like the shorter travel.
Is there a difference between my short travel + full depress and your long travel + partial depress? I doubt it. Perhaps I'm wrong. Maybe I'll be buying a new clutch in 10k. But I don't think that will be the case.

 

The area of pedal movement that is removed by this mod is BEHIND the engagement point.

This is the area that none of us use (unless you are the type that pushes the clutch pedal to the floor everytime you shift).

 

You call it Behind Engagement Point, The Term Is Free Play and its important to a Clutch system other wise Nissan, Toyota, Honda , etc etc won't put it there.

You want a faster feel, get a ***** Disc type cluch, Its Either On Or Off, NO Sissy play and No Adjustment Required.

This method is a disaster for the clutch waiting to take place.

 

Do you use the free play (press the clutch all the way to the carpet) to shift? And if it is so important, why doesn't any of us with manual trannies push their pedal to the floor?

No one knows why Nissan put such a wide range of motion for the clutch pedal arm. Maybe they wanted to take out the REAL sporty feel. They have removed other performance options: lowered top end power, speed limiter, 6500 rpm redline, twisted a$$ y-pipe, big restrictive precats, etc...

Your Supra doesn't have any free play.

 

I shift where the gear goes in and out smoothl

Its not just Nissan doing it to rob you of power. The picture on 2nd page is from Toyota Clutch

Supra does have free play, But it also has a racing clutch.

 

A manufacturer will not purposely limit a car unless it's financially stupid, or uncomfortable to the driver, potentially harmfull to the vehicle, or just plain stupid. Y pipe is noisy, cats is to pass emission so that WE can have maximas for sale in the states (ULEV or something), redline to prevent damage to the engine and besides as dynos show the power seem to start dropping once you get there), top end is limited by gearing (shorter gears so that the engine is constantly on it's torque curve; that affects also top end), speed limiter (well that's just smart).
You asked for one person who fully presses their clutch when they shift. I do. All the time. And my foot never leaves the carpet. Doesn't mean i don't know how to drive, u've seen me race the car.
But you may be right, i'll just trust your analogy on this and just watch how you and others who've done it come out. Great find if you're right.

 

If I depress my clutch ALL THE WAY...EVERY TIME, will this help???

 

Mine is stock again. F this.....not worth it.

 

lol.

 

Give em a few weeks/months, they'll be sharing the same feelings.

Its not worth a new clutch just so you can shift a little faster, If the factory is not fast enough, Just Power Shift that Saam B1tch. No Pedal needed for that

 

Andy you adjusted the wrong thing. You adjusted the cruise control sensor which is just like holding your foot on the clutch. The nut that should have been adjusted is behind the fork. Once that nut is loosened the splined rod can be twisted to move the pedal in or out. Do not adjust the clutch pedal arm to low or else the spring will loose it initial load and the clutch will be partially engaged all the time.

 

I also always push the clutch in all the away. I adjust the seat so I can do it and be comfortable. I also know I can't do this because my wife is to short to be able to always push the pedal in all the way every time.

 

From technosquare...

REV limiter modification
We found that with the ECU upgrade, more power can be gained with a higher rev limiter. A 7100 RPM (stock 6600 RPM) rev limit is set to take advantage of top end horsepower, while still providing a safe protection for the motor.

Speed Limiter Removal
The speed limiter is removed.

Ignition Timing Map Adjusted
There wasn’t much room for improvement at the bottom end since the ECU retards a lot of timing by using a feed back system in stock trim. So, we have added more timing at the mid range - high end to take additional advantage of higher-octane gasoline. This aids in improving torque from 3000 rpm and up.

Fuel Map Adjusted
Stock fuel was set to detune the top end horsepower. We discovered that the car runs extremely rich after 5000 rpm. Air to Fuel ratio (A/F) of 10.5 was found right before the stock rev limiter kicks in. Cleary, Nissan was trying to detune the power output at higher rpm to discourage the driver from hitting the rev limiter. For the performance enthusiasts, however, this is unsatisfactory, so we set the A/F to 12.5 all the way to redline to provide adequate power gain while still maintaining a safe margin.

Drive By Wire Adjustment
Throught our testing we found, the drive by wire system was program to never fully open (throttle flap) when you smash the accelerator pedal. In fact, it actually closes the closer you get to the rev limiter, by as much as 20%. This restricts air into the motor and causes HP and Torque numbers to go down. We have remapped this setup so when you go wide open throttle, the throttle flap fully opens and STAYS OPEN, increasing HP and Torque.

Adding to above modifications, a few other adjustments were made to other maps to enhance the feedback function which improves power, torque and drivability. The resulting achievement is a remarkable improvement in driving feel, which is more than what numbers alone can tell you. We are very satisfied with the results and are proud to release our TECHNOS ECU for this tuning-challenged ECU.

 

All of the Above may be true b/c you are just reprogramming Electronics. The Effect it has on the mechanicals of the motor.

Going past Rev Limiter = Broken Valve springs, bent valves, Piston slapping bottom of head so on so forth..

Speed Limiter = Some cars are electronically Limited, Some are Drag Limited.

Rest of the stuff about fly by wire = Have a Spare 6spd ECU by your side before you start reprogramming that factory one.

How did we get from clutches to engine?

 

...........

 

ok just curious...once the cruise contol is adjusted it's just like having the foot on the clutch all the time. but that part is just safety, so as soon as you actually press the clutch, you go right to the engagment/disengagment point, and dont have to waste time going through the safety part......

am i wrong?

-IgS

 

You don't adjust the cruise control sensor to stop the peddle early. You adjust the cruise control sensor so that it's button is just depressed when the clutch is all the way out and reaches it's stopping point.
Riding the clutch is bad. It greatly increases the chance of slippage and WILL wear your clutch out faster.
We can't seem to agree as to the possible damage of shortening the clutch travel. However, I think everyone here would agree that having the clutch partially depressed all the time is a BAD thing.

 

so say if i put it back to stock and depress it just a tiny bit say by 1/2 an inch from its stock postiton (not modified position)...and not reaching the part where the clucth disengages from the flywheel that's a bad thing?


-IgS

 

Yes, because you are still applying preasure to clutch master cylinder. This is not enough pressure dissengage the clutch, but under full load, it will likely result in slippage. That equals greater heat, power loss, and shortened clutch life.
With the mod that started this monster thread, you are still allowing the clutch master cylinder to push all the way back out. Because of the shortened starting position, it doesn't push out quite as to exactly the same point, hence the need to move the sensor. The sensor should not stop the clutch peddle movement.

 

ewww, im gonna go put it back to stock as soon as i get off work

thx

 

I was gonna let this thread die, but you've changed the subject a bit.

Tell me something, why did Nissan set redline at 6500 (rev limiter at 6700) on all the applications of the VQ35 engines? The Altima, maxima, FX35, Murano, 350Z? If it weren't going to be dangerous, why did Nissan limit it even on the 350Z?
The dyno graphs already show that power drops up there, according to technosquare because the engine is set to run rich, but even though it's dropping the longer you hold a gear the more you pull. Even though torque is low, rpm is rising. Now Nissan is trying to make the 350z a fast car and put it up against some fierce competition, and all manufacturers would love to crush their competition, so why hasn't nissan made the 350z rev higher?
One other thing to consider, by allowing you to rev higher when you shift to the next gear you will not spend enough time in the engine's sweet spot, so when you shift to the next gear you may potentially be slower.
There is NO way in hel% that technosquare knows the vq35 more than Nissan who themselves made the engine what it is. Technosquare is in the business to sell products. They don't care if you start popping valves and springs like popcorn 10k miles later. They won't test their setup on a car for months before they release it. They'll set it up, and make sure that on a dyno it can show some advantages, but some of those advantages can be losses in the near future.
Nissan engineers have created some of THE best engines in the world (RB26DET, VQ35DE, SR20DET, VK56DE) just to name a few, so i'm sure there is a reason why they set a limit on this engine at 6500rpm in my opinion.

Just be smart dude, i love these conversations but I will not reply to this thread again. PEACE