mods going forward
11-20-2003, 10:03 PM
#1
mods going forward
okay all.. heres where the org pays off.. everyones .02 :P
You can read from my sig what I have done.. and here is what I am doing next...
1. Install Triple Guage Pillar
2. Buy Autometer Cobalt Series Guages (EGT, Vac/Boost, FP)
3. Suspension (Coilovers or Really good struts) (still undecided)
4. J&S Ultra Safeguard
5. Boost (Still contemplating S/C or Turbo.. still have time)
What else besides these should I get?
Basically N/A except better suspension I am done from what i can tell..
but I am sure there is some good (serious) mods out there that I have forgotten..
So please help with my mod list.
Thanks
You can read from my sig what I have done.. and here is what I am doing next...
1. Install Triple Guage Pillar
2. Buy Autometer Cobalt Series Guages (EGT, Vac/Boost, FP)
3. Suspension (Coilovers or Really good struts) (still undecided)
4. J&S Ultra Safeguard
5. Boost (Still contemplating S/C or Turbo.. still have time)
What else besides these should I get?
Basically N/A except better suspension I am done from what i can tell..
but I am sure there is some good (serious) mods out there that I have forgotten..
So please help with my mod list.
Thanks
12-04-2003, 04:05 PM
#5
Wheels and tires
Something to tune your setup (Greddy E Manage, SAFC, etc.)
If you dont have access to dyno tuning, a wideband O2.
Fuel Pump
Adjustable FPR
Prolly want to do something about the brakes, they will warp anyway
Something to tune your setup (Greddy E Manage, SAFC, etc.)
If you dont have access to dyno tuning, a wideband O2.
Fuel Pump
Adjustable FPR
Prolly want to do something about the brakes, they will warp anyway
12-04-2003, 04:21 PM
#6
I'd put off the J&S Safeguard and go with an Aquamist alcohol/water injection setup. Or a BlehmCo BBK(http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=264963) if you get rims.
You really don't need the J&S unless you're pushing 12-15+psi and by then, you'd need to beef up the internals anyways.
You really don't need the J&S unless you're pushing 12-15+psi and by then, you'd need to beef up the internals anyways.
12-04-2003, 08:45 PM
#8
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
I'd put off the J&S Safeguard and go with an Aquamist alcohol/water injection setup. Or a BlehmCo BBK(http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=264963) if you get rims.
You really don't need the J&S unless you're pushing 12-15+psi and by then, you'd need to beef up the internals anyways.
You really don't need the J&S unless you're pushing 12-15+psi and by then, you'd need to beef up the internals anyways.
12-04-2003, 08:45 PM
#9
Originally Posted by CBass69187
Wheels and tires
Something to tune your setup (Greddy E Manage, SAFC, etc.)
If you dont have access to dyno tuning, a wideband O2.
Fuel Pump
Adjustable FPR
Prolly want to do something about the brakes, they will warp anyway
Something to tune your setup (Greddy E Manage, SAFC, etc.)
If you dont have access to dyno tuning, a wideband O2.
Fuel Pump
Adjustable FPR
Prolly want to do something about the brakes, they will warp anyway
12-04-2003, 09:54 PM
#12
Wild at Hurt
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 580
I have huge respect for your auto>manual conversion and the Quaffe.
As much as you like the stock AE wheels, they are as heavy as boat anchors.
My .o2 wait on the gauges until you just before you boost. A UR billet underdrive pulley would be nice. Pay special attention to what Ice recommends on the major engine mods
As much as you like the stock AE wheels, they are as heavy as boat anchors.
My .o2 wait on the gauges until you just before you boost. A UR billet underdrive pulley would be nice. Pay special attention to what Ice recommends on the major engine mods
12-05-2003, 06:20 AM
#13
Originally Posted by Mick Max
I have huge respect for your auto>manual conversion and the Quaffe.
As much as you like the stock AE wheels, they are as heavy as boat anchors.
My .o2 wait on the gauges until you just before you boost. A UR billet underdrive pulley would be nice. Pay special attention to what Ice recommends on the major engine mods
As much as you like the stock AE wheels, they are as heavy as boat anchors.
My .o2 wait on the gauges until you just before you boost. A UR billet underdrive pulley would be nice. Pay special attention to what Ice recommends on the major engine mods
AE wheels are heavy but until i'm already boosted and trying to lose weight.. they are fine for now.. once boosted i'll be stripping as much weight as possible
As far as listening to Ice's recommendations.. that is fine.. only thing I had to say is that his recommendation for J&S under 12-15psi but needing to change internals is not true.
Installing the S/C kit with a 2.87 I will be running 14psi. And stock internals have been known to handle 14psi easily.
The VQ is suprisingly (to everyone) a very strong engine that has handled tons of abuse by a lot of people on the org.
And if you ask any FI moderator it is able to handle 14psi S/C as a daily driven car pretty easily.
Vortech's blower is supposed to be able to handle up to 20psi from what I hear and I (to be safe) would change stock internals after 14psi but until then I wouldn't do the work. Purchasing a replacement block isn't that hard to come by and when I do thats when the new engine would have internals changed.
Just my .02.
-Chris
12-05-2003, 08:08 AM
#14
Wild at Hurt
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 580
Chris, I have had 3 heavily modded turbo cars. 93 RX7, 89 944 turbo S and 86 944 Turbo. Blew apex seals and burnt rotors and housings 4 times on the rx7 at $4000 ea time and I am not even going to tell you what a 944 engine costs, cause you would not beleive it.
BE CONSERVATIVE. The theory that if some is good, than more is better, was really funny on the Tim Allen show but not always so good in real life.
And with a front wheel drive car after a certain point ya cant put it too the ground anyway. Sure 14 psi or 17 for a short period will work but going above 12 you are gonna shorten the life of the engine.
There is no bigger PITA than blowing up your motor
BE CONSERVATIVE. The theory that if some is good, than more is better, was really funny on the Tim Allen show but not always so good in real life.
And with a front wheel drive car after a certain point ya cant put it too the ground anyway. Sure 14 psi or 17 for a short period will work but going above 12 you are gonna shorten the life of the engine.
There is no bigger PITA than blowing up your motor
12-05-2003, 08:12 AM
#15
Originally Posted by Mick Max
Chris, I have had 3 heavily modded turbo cars. 93 RX7, 89 944 turbo S and 86 944 Turbo. Blew apex seals and burnt rotors and housings 4 times on the rx7 at $4000 ea time and I am not even going to tell you what a 944 engine costs, cause you would not beleive it.
BE CONSERVATIVE. The theory that if some is good, than more is better, was really funny on the Tim Allen show but not always so good in real life.
And with a front wheel drive car after a certain point ya cant put it too the ground anyway. Sure 14 psi or 17 for a short period will work but going above 12 you are gonna shorten the life of the engine.
There is no bigger PITA than blowing up your motor
BE CONSERVATIVE. The theory that if some is good, than more is better, was really funny on the Tim Allen show but not always so good in real life.
And with a front wheel drive car after a certain point ya cant put it too the ground anyway. Sure 14 psi or 17 for a short period will work but going above 12 you are gonna shorten the life of the engine.
There is no bigger PITA than blowing up your motor
Also there are many ~12psi S/C cars that beat on their cars daily.. and are fine. I don't see anyone around here blowing VQ motors (that are boost related problems).
It is a very surprising motor
12-05-2003, 08:34 AM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,144
I just want to see someone do a complete turbo setup at 14 psi with stock internals and make it VERY reliable. I have always wanted a turbo but i will not even start to concieve the idea of getting one for the max until it has been proven to be tried and true. i give you much props for the work that you have done and if you can push 14 psi then more power to you.
12-05-2003, 08:39 AM
#17
Wild at Hurt
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 580
Yeah the VQ is one of the finest engines ever made. Should bought a 300 Z TT instead of the RX 7, a huge regret, and some of my friends with Z's did run 17 psi with no prob. But it had lower compression and I think beefier internals from the factory. But again that is a rear wheel drive car with great weight transfer.
What do you get for that $700 by the way?
What do you get for that $700 by the way?
12-05-2003, 08:42 AM
#18
Originally Posted by Mick Max
Yeah the VQ is one of the finest engines ever made. Should bought a 300 Z TT instead of the RX 7, a huge regret, and some of my friends with Z's did run 17 psi with no prob. But it had lower compression and I think beefier internals from the factory. But again that is a rear wheel drive car with great weight transfer.
What do you get for that $700 by the way?
What do you get for that $700 by the way?
12-05-2003, 09:07 AM
#19
Wild at Hurt
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 580
OK so by the time you fix all the internals it gets kinda spendy.
Why not go nitrous? It is a butload of cash cheaper.
Then save for the new AWD version of the G35. You would still have the beloved VQ and what ever the power you could dream up would go to more than just tire smoke. Trust me, even if you do 110% of what you plan to do to your max, it is not necessarily going to be the hot set up 2 years from now. Not trying to burst your bubble by any means, the things you have done are fantastic. If ya go too far with a car, you can begin to not like it.
Why not go nitrous? It is a butload of cash cheaper.
Then save for the new AWD version of the G35. You would still have the beloved VQ and what ever the power you could dream up would go to more than just tire smoke. Trust me, even if you do 110% of what you plan to do to your max, it is not necessarily going to be the hot set up 2 years from now. Not trying to burst your bubble by any means, the things you have done are fantastic. If ya go too far with a car, you can begin to not like it.
12-05-2003, 09:47 AM
#20
Originally Posted by Mick Max
OK so by the time you fix all the internals it gets kinda spendy.
Why not go nitrous? It is a butload of cash cheaper.
Then save for the new AWD version of the G35. You would still have the beloved VQ and what ever the power you could dream up would go to more than just tire smoke. Trust me, even if you do 110% of what you plan to do to your max, it is not necessarily going to be the hot set up 2 years from now. Not trying to burst your bubble by any means, the things you have done are fantastic. If ya go too far with a car, you can begin to not like it.
Why not go nitrous? It is a butload of cash cheaper.
Then save for the new AWD version of the G35. You would still have the beloved VQ and what ever the power you could dream up would go to more than just tire smoke. Trust me, even if you do 110% of what you plan to do to your max, it is not necessarily going to be the hot set up 2 years from now. Not trying to burst your bubble by any means, the things you have done are fantastic. If ya go too far with a car, you can begin to not like it.
Yes it will never be an AWD Skyline or anything to that extent but I want to bring it to the top of its ability.. but within some limits.
Because of that is why I am not considering the turbo kits (as many of them are out there) over the S/C because the SCer is tried and true.. the turbo's still have problems.. still people blow turbo's.. I would love for this to be available in a tried and true method.. but it will take time to gain the respect.
I want power out of the VQ.. just below its limits. S/C will give me that and that is why I will probably go that route (but I still have time).
Eventually dumping money into another AWD car is where I will go but I always want the max.
Another huge reason for the auto->manual was because I drive very hard on my car. I drove auto like manual.. I blew 2 trannies and have a brand new auto (just before conversion) at my house. Auto is fine for some people but for racing light to light.. taking to 1/4 mile.. its just not it.
So I am well aware of the car can only handle so much.. i just want as much out of it before I move on to my next project
12-05-2003, 07:13 PM
#21
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (38)
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Near Archer High School, Ga
Posts: 6,451
you wont need a JS for 11PSI on your car. I believe the injectors on your car are more then 240CC. The car can clearly handle 11PSI. I was running lean @ 10.8PSI from the turbo and did not detonated, I did it about 12 times because two weeks prior to doing the motor swap I went out racing. I raced a total of 6 cars. All fast ones. I wont post details but the car just pulled very hard. I inspected the bottom portion of my motor and did not break anything. If you want more mods maybe a exhaust system would be a great idea since your going boost. A set of 1 step colder plugs NGK BKR6-11 for future use would be a good idea to purchase as well. A oil cooler to keep your oil temps down.
12-06-2003, 05:53 PM
#22
Originally Posted by JAY25
you wont need a JS for 11PSI on your car. I believe the injectors on your car are more then 240CC. The car can clearly handle 11PSI. I was running lean @ 10.8PSI from the turbo and did not detonated, I did it about 12 times because two weeks prior to doing the motor swap I went out racing. I raced a total of 6 cars. All fast ones. I wont post details but the car just pulled very hard. I inspected the bottom portion of my motor and did not break anything. If you want more mods maybe a exhaust system would be a great idea since your going boost. A set of 1 step colder plugs NGK BKR6-11 for future use would be a good idea to purchase as well. A oil cooler to keep your oil temps down.
I have full 2.5" exhaust.
1 step colder plugs? What is the reason for this? I have seen others do it.. but don't know enough about 1 step colder or 2 steps colder.
oil cooler is something I have thought of.. any suggestions?
2.87 pulley will put me at 14psi.. so I think having the J&S will be a good thing... starting out with lower psi is obvious as we previously discussed but eventually 2.87 is most likely where I will get.
There is no JWT ECU for my car so I would have to do TQ ECU and e-Manage to get larger injectors (Deac is supposed to test aftermarket 350Z injectors) and 7100 redline.
Thanks for the feedback.. keep it coming
12-06-2003, 06:05 PM
#23
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (38)
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Near Archer High School, Ga
Posts: 6,451
you need 1 step colder plugs. It will help you on top end. It will keep chamber temp down a bit. If your going straight for 14PSI yes you will need a JS. If I was you Id start off with at least 10.5 PSI. If you know what you are doing be my guest. 14PSI off the back for someone who has not been boosted I would not recommend. Thats just my opinion. I know I started at 10PSI. Worked out some bugs and got the car to 321HP my Previous SCer kit. For 14PSI 2.5 inch exahaust is not going to even cut it. You will need at least 3 inch. All that air flowing in best be flowing out ASAP, yes a 3 inch Ypipe will be needed all the way back! start at 10.5 PSI and work your way up!
12-06-2003, 06:15 PM
#24
Originally Posted by JAY25
you need 1 step colder plugs. It will help you on top end. It will keep chamber temp down a bit. If your going straight for 14PSI yes you will need a JS. If I was you Id start off with at least 10.5 PSI. If you know what you are doing be my guest. 14PSI off the back for someone who has not been boosted I would not recommend. Thats just my opinion. I know I started at 10PSI. Worked out some bugs and got the car to 321HP my Previous SCer kit. For 14PSI 2.5 inch exahaust is not going to even cut it. You will need at least 3 inch. All that air flowing in best be flowing out ASAP, yes a 3 inch Ypipe will be needed all the way back! start at 10.5 PSI and work your way up!
How does 1 step colder help at top end?
What about 2 step colder?
Type to look for? Price usually?
I will start at either stock pulley (5-6psi) and then 3.125 (10.5psi) as discussed.... so J&S is just safety measure.
What is suggestion for good oil cooler setup?
JAY25 what suspension you running? I currently have Eibachs with stock struts.. looking for something with full suspension travel like a short body strut or something that has the ability to adjust the body so that I can have the full suspension travel.
Planning on EGT, FP, Boost guages.. what suggestion you got for other things?
Some say S-AFC and others say its kind of a waist.. I know alot of people like the "nice" guages (ie. RSM).. but I want what I need.. not looking to impress people and I am trying to keep the "stockish" look that's why I got the molded (stock looking) triple guage pod A-Pillar.
Thanks
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