So, changing spark plugs to go back to stock NGK's just to make sure that it's my coils that need replacing and as I was securing the coils back in place one of the bolts snapped. Mid rear cylinder. It couldn't have been putting more than 10 ft/pds on it at the most. Anyways, now that coil isn't secured.

Questions:

Is there a simple way of getting a broken bolt out that I can do at home?

If not, how much is a shop gonna rape me to drill it out and re-thread it?

Considering it isn't something structural, just to secure the coil, I hope it's not too much.

 

You can go to the a place like Sears and get a bolt extractor set. Then, you should be able to get a new bolt from your Nissan Dealer.


Something like this:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00952152000

 

Yup, but clearance is gonna be my biggest issue...do they make extensions for drills?

 

I don't know how much room you have back there to extract the broken bolt. Did it break off beneath the surface or above it? If it is above the surface, you might be able to use vise grips to remove it. If it is below the surface, you will need to center punch the middle of the broken bolt and use a small drill bit to drill into it. After that, you'll need a small easy out (screw extractor) to remove it. Good luck.

 

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00920791000

 

It's pretty damn tight in there. Don't even know if I could get my vise grips in there, but it is broken off above the surface.

Anyone have an idea of what a shop would charge me to do it?

 

How much above the surface? Thay make extractors for that too.

 

Couple milimeters. Not a lot.

 

I would estimate at least two hours labor unless you know a mechanic that works on the side. The do sell long nosed vise grips also. I would also spray some PB Blaster on the broken bolt before attempting to remove it.

 

Jesus, 2 hours for a stupid bolt?

 

It would depend on where you took it. Some people might be able to get it out in less than an hour and charger you accordingly. A dealer most likely wants to make $$$ and not always go the extra mile to help you. If you had a trusted mechanic you could take it to you'd be better off.

 

[QUOTE=Matto357]It's pretty damn tight in there. Don't even know if I could get my vise grips in there, but it is broken off above the surface.

QUOTE]

http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...Type=BM1000005

 

[QUOTE=charliekilo3]Thanks for the research, my best bet is looking like one of those drill-out things. Tested and my drill can fit in there, I just can't get 100% on center, I'd wager I'm going in 10 degrees or so off 90.

 

You're welcome. the best way to start drilling is by center punching in the middle of the broken bolt. If you go too far off center, you will destroy the threads with the drill bit. Do you think you have room to get a pair of long nosed pliers in there?
http://doityourself.com/store/gp57047.htm

 

Yup, but at most I've only got 2 millimeters to grip onto. Gonna get some PB blaster, bolt out and see what I can do. Worse comes to worst, I'll completely drill it out and rethread it. Ughh, hope it doesn't take long, gotta finish christmas shopping tomorrow as well, heh.

 

Got Dremel with a flexible shaft? I'd start by cutting it off flush then use a 3/32 bit to make a pilot hole in the center. At that point you have some options. I have a set of left hand drill bits that will usually get stuff like this out. Mine are Snap-On but you may be able to find elsewhere. A regular extractor will work here too as mentioned before.

Removing broken fasteners is an art, especially steel in aluminum. Most mechanics will goober it up, be careful and expect to pay.

 

Well if you can get a thin punch in there you can use that and a hammer to start turning the broken bolt until you can turn it by hand.

 

If it makes ya feel better, when I was putting on my UDP, my buddy didnt loosen the bolt that held the tensioner bolt, or whatever it was called, in place, so we over torqued it and snapped the tensioner rod. Had to buy a new one from the stealership at around $50! pain in the butt

 

Matt: 1
Bolt: 0

Welp, it came out much much easier than I thought it would. A little bit of liquid wrench and it came out incredibly easy. Used some needle nose vise grips to get that first turn then some needle nosed pliers to twist it out the rest of the way.

It turned so easy I'm sure that it was just an incredibly weak bolt.

So, are nissan parts departments open on Sundays?

And thanks for all the help and suggestions everyone.

 

Glad to hear that you had success. The ones above the surface are usually the easiest ones.

 

I don't believe there is anything special about that particular bolt.
Just bring it to your local hardware/home improvement store and get
a matching metric bolt. BTW, the same is not necessarily true
of other bolts. I once had to spend $8 on a single Nissan caliper bolt.

 

Matto,
You have had one incredable week. Those guys gave you perfect advice.
This is what I have learned to do on these smaller bolts. Hold the pivot part of the ratchet in the ball of your hand and not on the lever part. As far as torque wrenches go many of them are not accurate below 10flbs especially the clickers.