wheel hop and ses!
wheel hop and ses!
i am having two issues and since the search isnt available to me, i am leaving it all up to the generous members of the org to help me...1st, i have a major wheel hop issue under even medium acceleration and it doesnt sound pleasant...sort of like a jackhammer in my front end! 2nd issue is that i swapped the obx cat back exhaust i had on my 2k and put it on my 2k2. the ride back to my house (.5miles) was fine, and i had no issues, but when i went to leave an hour later, my ses light is on and the car isn't running well. i am also limited to 2300 rpms. i didn't disconnect my battery, and i remember hearing something about that at some point, but don't know if that applies. it is also -1F out right now. could that have anything to do with it? MAF is on order, so that may be an issue too, but if anyone has some suggestions...fire away! thanks in advance!
Originally Posted by IWNTMORHP!!
i am having two issues and since the search isnt available to me, i am leaving it all up to the generous members of the org to help me...1st, i have a major wheel hop issue under even medium acceleration and it doesnt sound pleasant...sort of like a jackhammer in my front end! 2nd issue is that i swapped the obx cat back exhaust i had on my 2k and put it on my 2k2. the ride back to my house (.5miles) was fine, and i had no issues, but when i went to leave an hour later, my ses light is on and the car isn't running well. i am also limited to 2300 rpms. i didn't disconnect my battery, and i remember hearing something about that at some point, but don't know if that applies. it is also -1F out right now. could that have anything to do with it? MAF is on order, so that may be an issue too, but if anyone has some suggestions...fire away! thanks in advance!
You want to avoid wheel hop, it will eventually obliterate your tranny.
RWD and FWD can experience wheel hop, it's not just limited to FWD. I hear guys say RWD doesn't get wheel hop all the time, they are dead wrong. I had a 70 chevelle 454 w/nitrous, like 600 HP when I fogged it, and that thing had wheel hop too that would rattle the fillings out of your teeth.
Fixing is a lot different on FWD and RWD obviously. For FWD, you can try upgraded motor mounts, that seems to be the first and easiest step. Tires can help a little, believe it or not, tires with less traction will hop less from my experience.
The more sticky a tire is, the more likely it is prone to hop if it starts to lose traction for a few reasons. One of them has to due with the motor and trans torquing (twisting) more and creating a suspension geometry that is conducive to wheel hop.
From my Chevelle and my FWD cars (I also have a modded talon TSi turbo), I've learned that if I just break the tires loose really fast from the get-go and spin the hard (basically dump the clutch), they won't hop because the suspension doesn't have a chance to deflect (twist) enough to create a hop situation. But If I punch it from a roll and the tires start to break loose at a higher speed and the suspension / motor-trans have had a chance to twist enough to create a re-bound situation, it will hop. My Max does this even with HLSD. I avoid it at all costs though.
The way I fixed it in my chevelle was to keep the rear suspension from twisting under torgue, which in turn ruined driveability, but running 11 sec 1/4 miles was more important
. That basic premis applies to FWD as-well. Stiff motor mounts can help, but you are really limited to the underlying design of the front suspension. A strut / control arm design which most FWD cars are is very susceptible to wheel hop because the axil point can rotate out so easily. A double wishbone front suspension will not twist nearly as easily and is less prone to wheel hop.
So, here are the things you can try:
Stiffer motor/trans mounts
less sticky tire (you trade off performance obviously, so this really might not be an option)
stiffen up the front suspension with bushings, higher rate springs, etc..
There may be a few other tricks I don't know, I'm sure someone will be along to correct me...
Make sure you avoid it at all costs until you have it fixed.
RWD and FWD can experience wheel hop, it's not just limited to FWD. I hear guys say RWD doesn't get wheel hop all the time, they are dead wrong. I had a 70 chevelle 454 w/nitrous, like 600 HP when I fogged it, and that thing had wheel hop too that would rattle the fillings out of your teeth.
Fixing is a lot different on FWD and RWD obviously. For FWD, you can try upgraded motor mounts, that seems to be the first and easiest step. Tires can help a little, believe it or not, tires with less traction will hop less from my experience.
The more sticky a tire is, the more likely it is prone to hop if it starts to lose traction for a few reasons. One of them has to due with the motor and trans torquing (twisting) more and creating a suspension geometry that is conducive to wheel hop.
From my Chevelle and my FWD cars (I also have a modded talon TSi turbo), I've learned that if I just break the tires loose really fast from the get-go and spin the hard (basically dump the clutch), they won't hop because the suspension doesn't have a chance to deflect (twist) enough to create a hop situation. But If I punch it from a roll and the tires start to break loose at a higher speed and the suspension / motor-trans have had a chance to twist enough to create a re-bound situation, it will hop. My Max does this even with HLSD. I avoid it at all costs though.
The way I fixed it in my chevelle was to keep the rear suspension from twisting under torgue, which in turn ruined driveability, but running 11 sec 1/4 miles was more important
. That basic premis applies to FWD as-well. Stiff motor mounts can help, but you are really limited to the underlying design of the front suspension. A strut / control arm design which most FWD cars are is very susceptible to wheel hop because the axil point can rotate out so easily. A double wishbone front suspension will not twist nearly as easily and is less prone to wheel hop.So, here are the things you can try:
Stiffer motor/trans mounts
less sticky tire (you trade off performance obviously, so this really might not be an option)
stiffen up the front suspension with bushings, higher rate springs, etc..
There may be a few other tricks I don't know, I'm sure someone will be along to correct me...
Make sure you avoid it at all costs until you have it fixed.
Originally Posted by KCMichaelM
Jackhammer under the front end typically can be broken motor mounts. If you *slowly* accelerate, will the car go above 2300 rpm and not make the loud noise?
Originally Posted by IWNTMORHP!!
the jackhammer/wheel hop and the 2300 rpms are two seperate situations. i cant get the car to go past 2300 rpms now...i believe i have a blown maf! maybe wheel hop F#*ked it up. anyway, the dealer ordered a new one yesterday when i was in for the hesitation tsb. said it should be a few days...wed or thurs of this week before they get one in. they hadn't ever heard of the tsb before and they are the largest nissan dealer in syracuse! they also told me there is a recall for the lower control arm or something of the sort. the service guy didn't really know the proper terms from the recall. maybe this is part of the issue with the wheel hop? has anyone else had big probs with an 02 6spd and wheel hop? he is also telling me that i need a letter from nissan to have this addressed, along with the data dots and brackets..."they wont just do it." because i brought in the copy of the tsb! so far i have tried two of the three dealers here and both have been hesitant to address these issues.
http://www.nissanusa.com/form/0,,act...,00.html#23168
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