I am looking for the PCV valve picture somebody posted showing the location in the engine bay. I believe the valve, or area, was circled.

 

its on the rear bank to the left has a hose going into the top of it. u remove it with a rather larger scocket and whalllaaaa.

will

 

Here ya go (location on a 2K Max) - I know, I know... it should say 'PCV', not 'PVC' ...

 

this is what it looks like....I pulled it out last week and it was still working fine after 58k miles of torturing.

 

one more pic...oh and you can test it by blowing air thru it. it is like a vacuum check valve, the air can only go one direction.

 

i replaced mine last week on my 2k1 and it was completely stuck at only 40k miles. took a little coercion to get off but the new from purolator went on like a charm.

 

Do you guys notice that after replacing the PCV Valve the engine sounds quieter at WOT ? I do notice that my engine sounds smoother at WOT.

 

After changing my PCV valve I noticed that my car feels more responsive than before. Feels like it shifts faster. Tomorrow will be a big day. I'm finally swapping out my springs and struts, putting a rear sway bar on and installing a UDP. I can't wait! Hope everything goes smoothly.

 

Are all PCV valves made the same? I bought a generic brand valve for the Max at Autozone today while I was picking up oil, it was only $5 so if it's no good I'll just get am OEM one.

 

what made you guys change the valve? Just as a regular maintanance?

 

Yup, regular maintenance. They really only need to be replaced if clogged
(should be able to blow air thru them in one direction but not the other).
However, for $5 or so, you might as well replace it every 24-36K miles.

 

what happens when PCV is clogged?

 

Pressure will build up in the crankcase and can cause a number
of problems from oil leaks to blue smoke from the exhaust pipe
as oil makes it way around rings/valves.

 

I've been meaning to change mine. I'll do it tomorrow.

 

Wow. Mine went on my 95 Altima and the dealer charged $330 to replace it. Unfortunately, I didn't know what it was at the time.

 

Basically take the valve off and put the new one in? Nothing more to it?

 

That's it. Once you find it, it takes less than a minute to replace. If you have problems inserting the new one, place a very light coating of oil or silicon spray on it.

 

Do you know if the PCV valve is different than the 4th gen or in a different position . Do you have a bigger pic of the whole IM .Thanks

 

The same PCV valve fits all 4th Gen and 5th Gen models thru 2001 (changed in 2002). It's in the same general area as the 4th gen. Go to the driver's side of the engine and look just to the left of the throttle body. The throttle body is the assembly you see on the right in the picture.

 

Did you guys order yours from the dealer or local auto parts store?

 

dealer. I have heard people who bought aftermarket PCV had a fit issue. dealer's should costs ~$14.

 

Purolator's seem to fit well from what I've heard. People have said that the Fram PCV's have fitment problems.

 

I had no fit problems with my $3.29 Purolator...

 

or the ol KY JELLY does the trick as well

 

Especially if you're inserting and removing it over and over and over...

 

Where did you buy your Purolator from? I went to Murrays and Autozone today and they don't carry Purolator PCV valves. Didn't check Advance Auto Parts. I'll call them tomorrow.
What about Walmart or Kmart? Anyone know?

Thanks

 

I got mine at Pep Boys, but Advance also carries Purolator (in fact, they advertise it for $3.29 on their online store).

 

that's good for you

 

Yup, I picked one up from Advance today.

Oh yeah, and Happy 1,000th post to me!

 

I'm trying to put my new one on right now. But the Purolator looks pretty different from the OEM one. The one I bought is part # PV1058 and it's all metal, while the OEM one is plastic. Did they give me the wrong part? Also it's threaded at one end for some reason but there is no threads to screw it in.
Can somebody post a pic of their Purolator PCV valve?

Thanks

 

i dont have a pic but thats the same part number i used for sure. my local advance had to order it so i remembered the part number. i dont remember threads but i think it had small ridges but i just used a small coating of oil and it went right on. there is some difference size but the purolator is the closest to oem of all the replacement brands that i have seen.

 

I pulled my Purolator out and it's all black without any threads. Unfortunately
it doesn't have a part number. I'd post a picture of it, but apparently posting images isn't working (get all kinds of server error messages when I try). PM me with your e-mail address if you wish and I'll mail the picture to you.

 

Well mine is an unpainted gold color and it has a long hex shaped shaft in the middle. I MUST have the wrong piece or something. Even though it has the same part # as Sloppymax.

Dan I sent you a pm w/ my email.

UPDATE: Dan I got your email and there is definately a problem. The PCV I got, looks NOTHING like yours. I figured that something must be wrong since mine looks so much different from the stock piece.
I'll have to go return it. I don't understand how they gave me the wrong part, when I told them my exact car make/model/year.
And Sloppymax, I have the same part # as you, but I got a different part?? Weird.

Thanks Dan.

 

The PCV from AutoZone works fine also. It's made by Deutch, Model #PCV169 - Cost $3.39. Coat the blue end with a drop of oil and it slips on no problem. It's blue and white, so it's easier to see. My 2¢.

 

I have 2000 and is there any good way to pull this out?
I was able to pull the hose out but unable to get the pcv valve. It's deep down there and I cannot get a good grip. I was just worried of breaking it. Any good tool or way to get it out? Thanks.

 

I'm wondering that too, I tried to just tug at it but I didn't want it to slip and bust up my hand or not be able to put the tube backon. Maybe I'll try to hold it snugly with channel lock pliers...

 

I used a pair of needle-nose pliers to get mine out....just put insert one end of the pliers inside the valve, squeeze and pull reaaaaal hard, it'll pop out.

 

That's exactly how I did it.

 

I only used my right arm to pull it out. guess I have a strong grip and wrist after all the back and forth excercise.

 

LoL!!! Tried with my arm before I put my intake on, it was really tight in there and a tight squeeze in the engine bay but after I took the stock airbox out it was real easy to get to, but still really stuck in there so I just used the pliers....I suppose if you've had a few too many nights alone lately or whatever and your arms are feeling......limber Go for it!