Well my Maxima is fukked...
I did that, I saw the tach at about 8K rpm for all of the half or so seconds that it took me to realize I screwed up. Put the clutch back in, chose the right gear and have not had problems since.
Originally Posted by itdood
Going from 3rd to 4th but gated to 2nd by accident. I forget the exact circumstances and track they were at. It happened to a guy that ran the talon digest. His buddy let him drive the car. It turns out it was actually a common problem for the m3 because the trans was so well designed that it was able gate into 2nd from higher speeds. I found this post about it:
http://member.rivernet.com.au/btaylo...arninge36.html
http://member.rivernet.com.au/btaylo...arninge36.html
Originally Posted by itdood
Even if you're a rev-matching toe-heel genius, you are putting wear and tear on the motor and clutch by downshifting. It might be minimal, but it's wear and tear.
I seriously doubt those who claim to match revs as they downshift to slow their vehicle actually do so on a consistent basis. If you are capable (and willing to) heel-toe at every light you roll up to, good for you. Even so, as long as brakes cost peanuts compared to a clutch replacement, I stand by my statement.
Originally Posted by maximaman777

Originally Posted by young1976
What's crazy or not to understand? I just don't "coast" in neutral. I don't necessarily downshift. I rather stay in gear whether it's 5th or 3rd. I don't think that wears out the clutch if you're not shifting. Plus if I need to get back on the gas, like say the light turned green, I won't have to "rev match" to the right gear or jerk the car and "cause more wear to my clutch" or put the gear shifter in the wrong gear because of a moment of confusion of what gear I should use or accidently shifting to 1st gear.
I've coasted to every red light I've come to for 20+yrs. I coast down hills every chance I get. The 20% or less of the lights that change to green before I come to a stop, if there are no cars in traffic slow to start forcing me to brake anyway, I bump the gas and shift into gear usually 2nd or 3rd depending on speed and ease out the clutch. 4th may happen from time to time but very rarely.
This is my 3rd manual Max and 7th manual car. I've replaced 1 clutch on the 1st car I owned and I bought it with 60k on the odo. On all 3 Max's I've done 1 brake job and that's because I wanted to. With 16k on my current Max, and I painted the calipers last night, the pads have more than 2/3's life left in them. My 1st Max had 37k on it when the lease was up and the pads were fine.
I bet your one of the many people on this board that complains about bad gas mileage. I bet you'd see a 15-20% increase in mileage city driving if you coasted instead of leaving the car in gear all the time.
So again
and maybe a
that's messed up... dont know why it happen since you didnt engage the gear.... well hopes everthing work out for you maybe able to fix under warrenty if you still one but if you dont high performance clutch is the why to go..........
Originally Posted by SE01
I'm just going to tell them I put it into neutral while coasting to a stop and then the clutch pedal wouldn't come up. Let them inspect it and see what they have to say about it.
Maybe the clutch friction disk fragmented or something.
Let us know what you find out.
Originally Posted by Thaniel
I'd tell them next to nothing. It doesn't really matter what happened as much as what is broke. As stated before there are no "lock out" mechanisms but I would be VERY suprised you could select a gear low enough to hurt things (without being superman). The syncros are not THAT good. Are you SURE you selected 1st....Maybe 3rd? Are you positive it was first?
Maybe the clutch friction disk fragmented or something.
Let us know what you find out.
Maybe the clutch friction disk fragmented or something.
Let us know what you find out.
Originally Posted by maximaman777
I've coasted to every red light I've come to for 20+yrs. I coast down hills every chance I get. The 20% or less of the lights that change to green before I come to a stop, if there are no cars in traffic slow to start forcing me to brake anyway, I bump the gas and shift into gear usually 2nd or 3rd depending on speed and ease out the clutch. 4th may happen from time to time but very rarely.
This is my 3rd manual Max and 7th manual car. I've replaced 1 clutch on the 1st car I owned and I bought it with 60k on the odo. On all 3 Max's I've done 1 brake job and that's because I wanted to. With 16k on my current Max, and I painted the calipers last night, the pads have more than 2/3's life left in them. My 1st Max had 37k on it when the lease was up and the pads were fine.
I bet your one of the many people on this board that complains about bad gas mileage. I bet you'd see a 15-20% increase in mileage city driving if you coasted instead of leaving the car in gear all the time.
So again
and maybe a 
This is my 3rd manual Max and 7th manual car. I've replaced 1 clutch on the 1st car I owned and I bought it with 60k on the odo. On all 3 Max's I've done 1 brake job and that's because I wanted to. With 16k on my current Max, and I painted the calipers last night, the pads have more than 2/3's life left in them. My 1st Max had 37k on it when the lease was up and the pads were fine.
I bet your one of the many people on this board that complains about bad gas mileage. I bet you'd see a 15-20% increase in mileage city driving if you coasted instead of leaving the car in gear all the time.
So again
and maybe a 
So don't assume because you make your self look
Because I'm sure you're not and you know plenty maybe more than I do.
Originally Posted by itdood
Even if you're a rev-matching toe-heel genius, you are putting wear and tear on the motor and clutch by downshifting. It might be minimal, but it's wear and tear.
*update*
My friend looked at the car today. He didn't take it apart yet, but he will tomrrow. He thinks I blew the tranny. This sucks, hopefully that won't be the outcome. Anyone know how much a Maxima tranny costs?
Originally Posted by young1976
If you made that bet, you would have lost. I'm actually one of those people that gets 30 mpg. I'm one of those people that don't street race and burn up gas like there's no tomorrow. I have now 75,000 miles on my 2000 Maxima that I bought brand new and I have only just replaced the stock tires, and my brake pads are still more than 1/2 left, only the damn rotors are still warped and I don't have money to get new rotors yet. I also drive on 5th gear as much as possible so I can save gas. So if you're saying you've been driving 20 years and you're smarter than I [because I've only been driving a stick since I was 16, that makes it 11 yrs] then what ever you say, it's your opinion. I'm also one of those people that get upset when people makes personal attackes on me. But you know what. I just hope the best of luck for the guy that started this thread with his Maxima.
So don't assume because you make your self look
Because I'm sure you're not and you know plenty maybe more than I do.
So don't assume because you make your self look
Because I'm sure you're not and you know plenty maybe more than I do.Your rotors most likely aren't warped their glazed or were not broken in properly and over heated at some point which changes the crystalline structure in certain areas on the rotor. This causes them to have different friction coefficient and make the pedal pulsate some.
You don't have to buy an expensive set of rotors to fix this problem. Whenever to decide to replace them if you follow the break-in instructions you will be happy with the result.
With this topic, randomly rowing the gate at a light is one thing. Doing it while driving is another. This is just a stupid mistake that he won't do again. IMHO he should by a salvaged tranny and be done with it and not try to warranty it. But that's his choice not mine.
SE01, be glad you didn't let off the clutch when you hit 1st or there would be a lot of oil and engine parts on that piece of road. With the trans if there isn't any damage to the housing from the destroyed syncro's and anything else that flew apart it may be able to be rebuilt. But it will be far less expensive to just get a salvaged unit and do a swap.
Originally Posted by SE01
My friend looked at the car today. He didn't take it apart yet, but he will tomrrow. He thinks I blew the tranny. This sucks, hopefully that won't be the outcome. Anyone know how much a Maxima tranny costs?
ok, fine, but my brakes are not glazed, I don't break hard, and that's why my brakes lasted so long... are your brakes not warped? Then lucky you. oh and I don't think I ever said it was BAD to coast in neutral. I think raidwolf said it was bad. I mearly said I rather not. All the technical jargon I know and I break in my brakes and engine all that... but if they warp they warp. You don't see me going out spending a fortune on brakes. I'm still driving on original brakes because they still work, just pulses a little from time to time. I think I've had enough lessons in stuff that I already know. No more for me please. Thanks
what U going to do with the old tranny ?? Any possible way I can work out a deal with U on it
I wanna have a spare to experiment with it on my SR20DET FWD... our trannies blow up sky high with 300WHP- 3rd gear sucks.
I wanna have a spare to experiment with it on my SR20DET FWD... our trannies blow up sky high with 300WHP- 3rd gear sucks.
A day without learning something new is a day lost...
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm
Originally Posted by young1976
ok, fine, but my brakes are not glazed, I don't break hard, and that's why my brakes lasted so long... are your brakes not warped? Then lucky you. oh and I don't think I ever said it was BAD to coast in neutral. I think raidwolf said it was bad. I mearly said I rather not. All the technical jargon I know and I break in my brakes and engine all that... but if they warp they warp. You don't see me going out spending a fortune on brakes. I'm still driving on original brakes because they still work, just pulses a little from time to time. I think I've had enough lessons in stuff that I already know. No more for me please. Thanks
Originally Posted by SE01
My friend looked at the car today. He didn't take it apart yet, but he will tomrrow. He thinks I blew the tranny. This sucks, hopefully that won't be the outcome. Anyone know how much a Maxima tranny costs?
Originally Posted by butchbr73
i'd let a nissan dealer look at it before he tears it apart... this one could be covered under the powertrain warranty....
If his friend is good he'll be able to spot something that would be covered under the manufacturers warranty and he can still take it to them if that's the case. He's trying to get out of this for the least amount of money.
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Originally Posted by BlackBIRDVQ
what U going to do with the old tranny ?? Any possible way I can work out a deal with U on it
I wanna have a spare to experiment with it on my SR20DET FWD... our trannies blow up sky high with 300WHP- 3rd gear sucks.
I wanna have a spare to experiment with it on my SR20DET FWD... our trannies blow up sky high with 300WHP- 3rd gear sucks.
PAR gearsets are now available for our SR20s...just fork over the 3K!
ALTHOUGH I heard someone made a spec-v tranny work on the SR...
Dude 3K bux... I don't have that much invested in my whole G20 including the SR20DET, electronics n intercooler. I cant justiffy paying 3K for something that fits in a small 10"x10" box. Plus I blew out my 01 Max tranny 4th gear already. Spare parts are hard to come by sometimes- I waited 2 weeks for my syncros from Japan. If there is any spare parts inside that tranny thou ! Spec V is the same tranny as the 6spd Maxima one- ask Kojima :P He once told me the 5spd Max tranny is the strongest FWD Nissan tranny- and this was after the 02 Max came out.
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