What type of rotor replacements?
What type of rotor replacements?
I am needing to replace my badly warped rotors on a 2000 GLE. I was thinking of replacing them with some cross drilled rotors. Can anyone give me some thoughts on which rotors I should go with. Price is somewhat of a concern. Also, when using these new rotors, will it require me to replace any other braking component(s)?
Thanks!
Thanks!
PowerSlot, Stillen, Brembo, etc. There are alot available for the 2k/2k1's. Unfortunately for us 2k2/2k3 guys PowerSlots, Stillen and AutoSpecialty are the only game in town. I just put on PowerSlots and they look very nice and stop much better than stock.
Originally Posted by Virus
PowerSlot, Stillen, Brembo, etc. There are alot available for the 2k/2k1's. Unfortunately for us 2k2/2k3 guys PowerSlots, Stillen and AutoSpecialty are the only game in town. I just put on PowerSlots and they look very nice and stop much better than stock.
Thanks for the info!
Thanks for all the replies guys. Yeah, I was wondering if desperado was talking about replacing the thing that holds the pads in (as well as the pads). The thing that is visible through my rims (calipers?). I was wanting to paint that red or black (not sure which would go best with my Black Max). But would prefer to just replace OEM with some nice aftermarket jobs if the price is right.
Has anyone done this on a Black (or otherwise) Max? If so, what color looks best. Any pictures?
Cheers,
Mike
Has anyone done this on a Black (or otherwise) Max? If so, what color looks best. Any pictures?
Cheers,
Mike
Everyone was advising me to get the Raybestos QS's. They are ceramic. This combo is excellent on sound and dust. I also need to replace the rear rotors and pads, but Raybestos doesn't make QS's for the rear so I may go OEM. I'm sure the Hawk and Axxis both stop better than the Raybestos, but after several years of trying metal pads, I would rather have a quiet pad and ceramic is the only way to go.
Originally Posted by Virus
Everyone was advising me to get the Raybestos QS's. They are ceramic. This combo is excellent on sound and dust. I also need to replace the rear rotors and pads, but Raybestos doesn't make QS's for the rear so I may go OEM. I'm sure the Hawk and Axxis both stop better than the Raybestos, but after several years of trying metal pads, I would rather have a quiet pad and ceramic is the only way to go.
I use Morse Friction Master on my Maxima. They are ceramic, and the rears p/n is CMX905. They produce virtually zero dust, and stop VERY well...
Also, 2 year free replacement if they glaze/crack...whatever.
Originally Posted by Quicksilver
I use Morse Friction Master on my Maxima. They are ceramic, and the rears p/n is CMX905. They produce virtually zero dust, and stop VERY well...
Also, 2 year free replacement if they glaze/crack...whatever.
Also, 2 year free replacement if they glaze/crack...whatever.
Originally Posted by irish44j
Check out the BlehmCo brake kit just finished by Matt Blehm....listed in the GD section...it lets you use the bigger 2k4 rotors with your stock calipers. I'm ordering them soon!
Raybestos brake pads are not that good as what folks told me ... they felt nice just after I replaced them but having driven 10K miles it performs as bad as OEM pads just before being replaced. I would do some good research on pad/rotors before changing them.
For sure, Raybestos is not for me!!!
Just installed the Powerslots this past weekend. I got the EBC greenstuff pads for the front and put OEM pads on the rear. I havn't driven it yet because when I was doing the rear calipers I didn't know that the piston turns clockwise back into the caliper to reset it. So know I have to wait til this weekend to finish the job. I'll let you guys know how this set up works once I drive it
Oh yeah....Mike1g, look in the group deal section. There is a group deal that just started up again on crossdrilled/slotted rotors, very reasonably priced. Infact, I was going to go with it but at the time they didn't have the rotors for the 02's.
Oh yeah....Mike1g, look in the group deal section. There is a group deal that just started up again on crossdrilled/slotted rotors, very reasonably priced. Infact, I was going to go with it but at the time they didn't have the rotors for the 02's.
I would really advise against getting the rotors in the GD section. They are made from Chinese iron which is far inferior to American iron and they will warp. It's unfortunate because AutoSpecialty as early as 6 month ago made fantastic rotors. They were bought around Xmas time and switched materials immediately as a cost cutting measure. PowerSlots are really the way to go at this time. I hope the Raybestos hold up. They are very quiet and don't produce much dust at all. Stopping is very good, but I'm positive that the Hawk and Axxis are better. I just couldn't deal with the noise associated with them.
I have Raybestos QS front pads and Raybestos rotors all around... the Raybestos rotor + pad combo warps just like an OEM. Sure wish I hadn't gambled the $$ on those, since I'm going to be replacing the fronts with possibly OEM 2k4 rotors and a decent semi-metallic pad (Axxis?).
The rears are good, though. Raybestos QS pads work well on the rear, although they will warp the rotors too if you have any rear brake problems (i.e. stuck caliper/parking brake cable/etc), however this point is moot since ANY rear rotor/pad combo will warp if it sticks.
Also FYI, Raybestos rotors are made in Canada. Not sure whose iron they use
The rears are good, though. Raybestos QS pads work well on the rear, although they will warp the rotors too if you have any rear brake problems (i.e. stuck caliper/parking brake cable/etc), however this point is moot since ANY rear rotor/pad combo will warp if it sticks.
Also FYI, Raybestos rotors are made in Canada. Not sure whose iron they use
Ask for Jessica. She is awesome. I got my fronts for $78 a piece with $14 2 day delivery on the front set. You will have to be patient though. They are on backorder with her. I've been waiting a couple weeks for the rears.
Performance Parts Store
A Division of NCMS
800.246.4567
Performance Parts Store
A Division of NCMS
800.246.4567
Originally Posted by Virus
I would really advise against getting the rotors in the GD section. They are made from Chinese iron which is far inferior to American iron and they will warp. It's unfortunate because AutoSpecialty as early as 6 month ago made fantastic rotors. They were bought around Xmas time and switched materials immediately as a cost cutting measure. PowerSlots are really the way to go at this time. I hope the Raybestos hold up. They are very quiet and don't produce much dust at all. Stopping is very good, but I'm positive that the Hawk and Axxis are better. I just couldn't deal with the noise associated with them.
Which GD and which rotors are made from chinese iron?
Originally Posted by Driven EF9
Avoid: Powerslot, any crossdrill rotors, etc
Just get some brembo blanks or other full rotors. Ignore those worthless xdrilled or slotted rotors.
Just get some brembo blanks or other full rotors. Ignore those worthless xdrilled or slotted rotors.
Originally Posted by Driven EF9
Avoid: Powerslot, any crossdrill rotors, etc
Just get some brembo blanks or other full rotors. Ignore those worthless xdrilled or slotted rotors.
Just get some brembo blanks or other full rotors. Ignore those worthless xdrilled or slotted rotors.
I looked for the best rotors for the my car for about a month. Every road led me to, Powerslots!! If you take a look around and read some write-ups on brake rotors you will find this out and I'm not just limiting myself to threads on the org.
Also, do not be confused on the 2 names out there. "Powerstop" and "Powerslot". Powerstop is a nockoff brand that is just a regular rotor, known to be made of less quality, and used to be crossdrilled or slotted by a 3rd party. Where as, powerslots are the known slotted rotors that have proven track record.
Originally Posted by Virus
This is an educated statement. Please provide us with proof that xdrilled or slotted rotors are worthless.
Proof? Prove that they are BETTER for decreasing stopping distances (this will be difficult, because they don't).
Also, what creditials do you have? What experience do you have in racing or racing applications? Please do not post street races or drag races as experience.
Yes, slotted rotors help remove the gassing of the brake pads and rotors.
Yes, x-drill rotors do the same.
No, they do not effectively increase fade resistance.
Brakes work by what? Friction. How do you give brakes a better chance to slow the vehicle down, create more friction.
What do x-drill/slotted rotors lack (in comparison to OEM based blanks)? Material.
So, how can you possibly achieve shorter stopping distances on a street car with slotted/x-drilled rotors, when you have reduced the friction content that allows the brakes to work?
And fade resistance? how many of you TRACK your maximas? the cost of casted cross-drilled rotors far exceeds the benefits on a street car. Track cars use x-drilled rotors because they tend to replace them a bit more than a daily driven car...why? because x-drilled rotors crack far more than oem blanks.
Originally Posted by jimz02max
Where as, powerslots are the known slotted rotors that have proven track record.
but, what do i know, i just make uneducated comments without any real world experience or data to back up my asinine statements.
Originally Posted by Driven EF9
Avoid: Powerslot, any crossdrill rotors, etc
Just get some brembo blanks or other full rotors. Ignore those worthless xdrilled or slotted rotors.
Just get some brembo blanks or other full rotors. Ignore those worthless xdrilled or slotted rotors.
Originally Posted by 30585
speaking of brakes, would you guys do a 300zx tt caliper swap?
Yes, because they provide a better caliper than the stock setup. There is a special going on right now (for 5th Gens) with a custom bracket, 300zx calipers, and '04 Maxima rotors (which are thicker than the current stock setup).
Originally Posted by 30585
speaking of brakes, would you guys do a 300zx tt caliper swap?
Originally Posted by kwd2kSE
I've got the 300ZX TT calipers on my car and love them. Especially since I slao updated the rotors at the same time. My new rotor is the bigger one, the small rotor is original that was on my 2000 SE. Now THIS is extra material. Per Quicksilver's post right above mine, this is exactly what I have.


I forgot the 2000-2001 models had smaller diameter rotors up front as well, and the '04 front rotors are larger than the 2002-2003 fronts in diameter and thickness...
Better for heat dissipation...
I made no comments that they were any better or worse than Brembo blanks, I just wanted you to prove they were worthless. For a 2k2/2k3 owners, they are really our only choice for a good rotor for both front and rear. For 2k or 2k1 guys, I would say that PowerSlots are too expensive and don't provide enough benefit to warrant the higher price. My rotors warped after 14k, I had them turned and now at 34k they were horrendous. After reading numerous opinions and reviews on the PowerSlots, I found them to be the best price/performance rotor for my 2k2.
One mans trash is another mans treasure
One mans trash is another mans treasure
Originally Posted by Quicksilver
I forgot the 2000-2001 models had smaller diameter rotors up front as well, and the '04 front rotors are larger than the 2002-2003 fronts in diameter and thickness...
Better for heat dissipation...
Better for heat dissipation...
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=291150
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=275821
I've also noticed that from what I've seen on TV and at the Petite last year, SCCA & Lemans cars for the most part no longer use drilled, just slotted.
The one of benefits I noticed about slotted is the sweeping action of the slots gives them more even wear and less grooving while being less prone to glazing. But they will not give you much benefit in stopping distance. You choice of pad would effect that the most. Anything significant would come from a complete upgrade.
Someone posted in one of the GD treads that not only was AutoSpecialty bought out but that some how PowerSlots were related to the same company. I don't if that's fact or not.
mike1g also asked about painting the calipers as well.
I've found that Hi-Temp paint not only offers a good appearance but doesn't cost much at all. Total cost is under $10.00. You need the paint, brake cleaner, some grease and a blowtorch. Yes a blowtorch.
All of the Hi-Temp paint I've seen needs to be cured at temp, 650deg for 1hr. Some can be cured at a low temp but the duration is longer. To do it properly you would need to basically do a complete caliper rebuild so you could bake the parts in an oven.
What is much easier is to remove the rotors (if your buying new ones this is the time to paint) and take all the hardware off the calipers. Pads, clips, boots and all. Then put the caliper back on the car using the greasy mounting/slide pins and bolts with out the boots. The grease will make it easy to wipe any paint off that you get on them. Now clean the caliper with break cleaner and a toothbrush. Let them dry and paint, 3 light coats will work. Then break out the torch and wave the flame across the painted areas, KEEP the torch moving DON'T stop in any one place for any period of time. Just keep waving the flame for a couple of minutes and it will be completely dry to the touch. Then reassemble every thing and your done. Remember to re-grease the slide pins.
The one of benefits I noticed about slotted is the sweeping action of the slots gives them more even wear and less grooving while being less prone to glazing. But they will not give you much benefit in stopping distance. You choice of pad would effect that the most. Anything significant would come from a complete upgrade.
Someone posted in one of the GD treads that not only was AutoSpecialty bought out but that some how PowerSlots were related to the same company. I don't if that's fact or not.
mike1g also asked about painting the calipers as well.
I've found that Hi-Temp paint not only offers a good appearance but doesn't cost much at all. Total cost is under $10.00. You need the paint, brake cleaner, some grease and a blowtorch. Yes a blowtorch.
All of the Hi-Temp paint I've seen needs to be cured at temp, 650deg for 1hr. Some can be cured at a low temp but the duration is longer. To do it properly you would need to basically do a complete caliper rebuild so you could bake the parts in an oven.
What is much easier is to remove the rotors (if your buying new ones this is the time to paint) and take all the hardware off the calipers. Pads, clips, boots and all. Then put the caliper back on the car using the greasy mounting/slide pins and bolts with out the boots. The grease will make it easy to wipe any paint off that you get on them. Now clean the caliper with break cleaner and a toothbrush. Let them dry and paint, 3 light coats will work. Then break out the torch and wave the flame across the painted areas, KEEP the torch moving DON'T stop in any one place for any period of time. Just keep waving the flame for a couple of minutes and it will be completely dry to the touch. Then reassemble every thing and your done. Remember to re-grease the slide pins.
Originally Posted by 30585
speaking of brakes, would you guys do a 300zx tt caliper swap?
Originally Posted by maximaman777
You choice of pad would effect that the most.
What do x-drill/slotted rotors lack (in comparison to OEM based blanks)? Material.
I dont have any experience with these rotors so there is no need to tear me up over it. This was just my understanding. But your right, less material will heat up faster causing warpage.
Are there any floating disks available for the max with stock calipers?
Since you mentioned that PRICE is a concern, I would go with the following:
Brembo Blanks ( available at tirerack or Nopi) $51 each
Hawk HPS pads (available at tirerack) $61 a set
I went with this setup several months ago for my 2000 max se.
Cheever
Brembo Blanks ( available at tirerack or Nopi) $51 each
Hawk HPS pads (available at tirerack) $61 a set
I went with this setup several months ago for my 2000 max se.
Cheever
Originally Posted by Virus
I made no comments that they were any better or worse than Brembo blanks, I just wanted you to prove they were worthless. For a 2k2/2k3 owners, they are really our only choice for a good rotor for both front and rear. For 2k or 2k1 guys, I would say that PowerSlots are too expensive and don't provide enough benefit to warrant the higher price. My rotors warped after 14k, I had them turned and now at 34k they were horrendous. After reading numerous opinions and reviews on the PowerSlots, I found them to be the best price/performance rotor for my 2k2.
One mans trash is another mans treasure
One mans trash is another mans treasure





