Hello everyone. Decided to take the plunge after careful review of 01 GLE (GXE?) Max at local salvage yard. All options, 24k miles, no evidence of water in engine or auto tranny, in fact.. all orig owner paperwork in glovebox was "dry" wth no evidence of curled paper. (Sure sign it got wet. )
Also checked the VIN and manufacture date.. and this car is new enough to still be under full factory warranty. Verified same with dealer.

Only small problem is car turns over but will not start...so I have a "challange" to work on this weekend.

So.. I was wondering if anyone had some suggestions to try before my FSM CD arrives. I am going to start with check out of the theft interlock , car appears to have the original key with chip.. but... I have read that if the interlock goes off I may need dealer (Stealer?) to reset.

I will also be checking for missing relays under the hood since these things often grow legs when cars sit on auction lots.

Fuses next... but my list starts to get short after that....
Will also be pumping and dumping the tranny fluid as soon as I get the car started to ensure that any water in auto tranny is flushed out since I learned on an earlier project that water and auto trannys = death to tranny.

I will update this post as I go along with progress.. and am looking forward to my "wifes" new ride.

Any suggestions or ideas on getting car to start welcome.

 

The ECU might have gotten full of water. It's down on the floor to the right of the accellerater pedal. I'd take that out and open it up and look for evidence of moisture. If thats the case replace it. The Air Bag module is also low, it's located under the center console between the front seats twards the rear. I'd check that for moisture as well.

Those are the only two items that are low enough to take on water.

 

I would also check the battery if its fully charged it might be a stupid thing like that and would drive you crazy..

 

Need a CONSULT tool to properly diagnose a nostart condition like that -- to check for crank/cam sensor, injector sync, pulse width, ECU voltage, etc.

Some starting points for any submerged engine:
- Compression test: all cylinders should be close in measurement, 100+ psi, if water got in the intake and the owner tried to crank the engine they can bend valves and break con rods. If you have 0 or low compression in cylinders then either a piston is holed (unlikely?) or a valve is stuck open.
- Crank/cam sensors + ignition coils: because of the coil-on-plug it's hard to check spark but it can still be done. If you have no spark, possible crank/cam sensor, ign. coils/relays
- Fuel pump and its associated relays: check for fuel pressure at the injector rail schrader valve.

 

Thanks for suggestions. Have pulled the engine computer and the airbag computer both show signs of corrosion/water damage. Ordered parts to replace from salvage yards... will try engine cpu tomorrow.
Also understand the concern about bending valves.. and see no evidence of water in engine or hgh enough to go in intakes.

Will take a shot with new engine control computer (next to accelerator pedal).. and update this weekend.

Thanks again.

Cpu

 

dont forget to open the trasnmission and drain/clean it. if water has reached as far as the ECU it will be in the transmission as well, since it has a breather hole on top.

i just hope you dont get to spend your ownership time tracking electrical problems all the time, as is usually the case with flooded vehicles.

 

sounds like a money pit. But here's the thing, Nissan won't warranty the car despite that it was flooded. Usually Insurance salvage the car, once the title is salvaged, then the warranty is voided.

 

With new PCM it will be necessary to 1) set the VIN, mileage, and feature codes (i think -- been awhile) and 2) program new ignition key -- (the chipped key) otherwise the car will not run. If you know a nissan tech at a dealer they will probably do it for cheap or free.

 

Thanks for the advice.. not the first flood car I have worked on. Have 93 Quest that was in lots of water.. fixed some boards with new diodes from Rat Shack.. and got dealer to replace auto tranny under warranty. Typical dealer is paid by Nissan.. and so.. unless things are really really wild.. will work with you to make you a happy customer.
Also very familiar with the specs for automotive and the specs are very demanding for resistance to moisture.

The Nissan/Ford quest above is still running strong 100K miles later.. and electrical issues have been non existant.. note I pulled all of interior out..and removed about an inch of mud from low spots in the floor.

Got it for a good price... and so.. was planning on spending several K$ on it.. besides.. it takes my mind off work.

Best thing about working on this.. is it forces me to learn.. and while I am learning and when I am done... I have a nice car for the better half.

Installed engine control CPU.. still won't fire.. assume theft interlock is still on.. and preventing any voltage from reaching coils.

Also waiting for the FSM.. CD to arrive so I can read and educate myself...

Remember... this is fun for me... no need for quick fixes.

Thanks again for all the good suggestions, about needing to reprogram CPU.

CPU

 

Pretty sure the ECU was fried, however, if not, you can tell by the security light NOT blinking if the NVIS has been triggered.

Here is the reset procedure(verified works~!):
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...&postcount=107

Also, as it's been said, with a new ECU you'll need to get ALL key IDs programmed into the ignition switch and ECU via a dealer. Once this is done, you'll want to perform an Idle Air Volume Learning Procedure to teach the new ECU the sensors/air/timing/etc. of the car. A dealer can do this EASILY with the Consult-II *IF* everything is to spec, but here's how to do it yourself per FSM(I've NEVER personally done it though~!), so you can make sure EVERYTHING is to spec first:

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...&postcount=111

 

Well..did more research..and seems like I am stuck with the solid red light in the clock theft interlock problem. Tried the reset procedure did not work.

So.. maybe tow it down to local dealer for reset...

Does anyone know if OBD2 software will work as a substitute for Consult II...

Also wondering outloud why I can't reset/re-program the ECU with laptop and OBDII software.

Just wondering..

Other option is to replace.. theft interlock modules with new key.. need to more clearly understand how many different places the key code is stored.

Gee.. starting to sound like my computers at work.

Thanks again for all the good advice.. drained oil.. ..no evidence of water..

Will drain autotrans tomorrow and report.

CPU

 

I'm guessing that the only problem is a fried ECU. That sucks.

 

Did you try the Reset Procedure with the OLD ECU? If not, that's the ONLY way it would work.

You need the dealer to program your key IDs(take ALL of them) into the new ECU.

OBD2 software will ONLY allow you to view/reset any fault codes and monitor many of the engine sensor readings, which may help diagnose a bad sensor.

You have to have the IMMU in the ignition switch and ECU programmed to the set of key ids you have. If you change either the IMMU or ECU or lose all keys, you have to go to the dealer.

 

Hello Here is an update. Installed new engine control computer, Joined AAA premium service $81 and got car towed to dealer for security key reset and one new key.

Dealer got car started...and reported a "loud engine knock". They also noted that the Airbag light was blinking... Wanted $69 for mechanical engine diag,and another $69 for electrical diag. I told them to go ahead with the mechanical engine diag and to skip the electrical diag.

They identified a multiple engine knock problem.. and said they would repair that and the airbag computer under warranty. I was happy ... for about 24 hours.

Called back and said that "someone" had cancelled the warranty on the car and that they would fax me an estimate...

End result was a quote for about $2800 to
1.0 replace all 6 coils and plugs on my Feb 01 manufactured car.($800)
2.0 $900 +$600 for two airbag control modules. (They made a mistake there is only one cpu for the airbags... and yes I agree it is bad.)
3.0 I had to LOL when they indicated they needed $89 to install new airbag computer which is about a 10 minute job and 8 screws. Jeeeeez.

So.. I told them I would pick the car up.. and Since I was concerned about H20 in auto tranny... I called AAA again.. and they towed it back to my house about 25 miles.

Got car home.. started up very nicely.. and I heard a small "ticking noise" that decreased over time.. and now engine sounds fine. Had a heavy miss .. and one of the front cooling fans was not turning on with AC on full. (both should be on.)

Drove car several miles, drives fine except for the miss, and cleaned off the connector to the fan.. fan is now working fine, checked auto tranny fluid for any sign of "white foam" and found none after driving car short distance.. so.. based on this.. and the fact that when I drained 7 quarts of tranny fluid and checked very carefully there is no evidence of H20 in the auto tranny. (bad news if it was.)

Got FSM from ebay on CD ($28 delivered).. and used coil check process of letting engine idlle.. and disconnecting one at a time until you find one that has no impact on idle. Left front coil appears to be bad since every other coil when disconnected makes car run "worse" except no change when this one pulled.

Ordered all 6 coils from junk yard $80 delivered (car-part.com) . I ordered them before I knew that only one coil was bad.. but they were so cheap I figured I could use em as spares. (Best price I found is about $55 each from Courtesy.)

Ordered Infinity J-30 Side airbag cpu.. from car-part.com $225 ups to my door, bought NGK plugs on E-bay $41 delivered) expect those items and the coils next week.

Plan is to replace the one known bad coil.. and all 6 plugs and airfilter.. and re-set the engine CPU by using the 24 hour battery disconnect trick... then drive car to check the gas mileage.

So.. so far I am up to

$140 for New CPU key and security reset and engine check out at dealer.
$81 for AAA premium membership
$80 for 6 "new" coils
$225 for airbag computer
$175 for engine control computer
$28 for FSM
$40 for NGK plugs
----------------------
$689 or so.

Of course I can argue that I would buy the FSM anyway.... and the AAA membership is nice.. and cheap insurance to have and the spark plugs are normal maintenence items.. but.. anyway.. so far I am happy with my progress and the car drives,sounds fine, with no major issues.

Of course.. the $*#_)#((@ tow truck "crunched" the bumper.. and broke the grill which made me pretty mad since I verified that the exterior was "perfect" before I bought it.. and of course .. I can not prove if Tow 1, or Tow 2 did the damage.. (think it was Tow 2).. but.. the front damage is minor.. and I learned long ago that when I let wife kids drive car... having a "perfect ride" is impossible since of course we gots to "squeeze" into that space right up front next to the four wheel drive tank with 800 lb doors that wham the Max..

Sigh... so.. other than that .. car is progressing nicely.

Thanks to all for the suggestions/advise.. remember this is therapy for me.. and takes my mind of my stupid job/boss.

Will update later when I get the "new" coil installed.

CPU

 

And how much did you buy this car for?

 

Paid $9800 for it.. but remember... I checked the condition prior and visually car interior and exterior are "perfect" one small parking lot ding in right rear door, and now my new "tow crunch"

Nada says its worth $16k or so.. (Bose, Heated leather seats, sunroof, nice chrome wheels and only 24k miles.) If I can save $3,-4k and have a nice ride that I am intimately familiar with.... and I get some enjoyment out of it.. then.. I am satisfied.

Of course I should probably make friends with someone with a dealer license and then I could buy the same car at auction for probably $6K or $7k or less.... but... I am satisfied.

Also note that I usually drive the wheels off the cars I own.. or use em a kid crash replacement vehicles. So I have no worry about selling it in a year or two.

Fed Ex showed up today.. Sunday? said they were busy yesterday.. and dropped off my 6 coils.. replaced the one that was doing nothing.. car now appears to run "perfect".


Will disconnect the battery for 24 hours to reset the CPU... and then start driving it to check gas mileage.

Will update when I get that done.

 

i just wanted to say thatim very impressed with your progress
you seem so calm and collected about everything. good luck with the car...i know the max will treat u right, granted theres no problems down the road...

 

Sounds like it's down hill now.

Most likely the ECU blew the coil when it got wet/corroded and later started.

You must have got NGK Plats for $43? I guess that's not bad, but if you don't mind changing plugs every 30K, then NGK coppers are ~$12.

Anyways, glad to hear everything is going good. Keep us(ME) posted on how it holds up long-term wise. I'm curious. Thanks.

 

Hello everyone.

Yes plugs were platinum on ebay, and with the one "new" coil car runs fine and is getting 25 MPG. So.. I think everything is fine. Happy with the purchase and except for the minor front bumper crunch... GRRRR.... car looks good and drives fine.

I did not replace the plugs and will probably wait to do that just keep checking the mileage... and change em at 30K miles or so.

The junkyard coils I got have 0724 printed on them.. and the one I replaced had 1130 written on it. Wonder if I got the newer version coils for my el chepo price.

Will probably spring for a transmission flush when I see a coupon for <$100.00 and all ready changed the airfilter.... but.. for now.. all is well.

Will update in a few months with good/bad news. Now to find someone with a dealers liscense that I can borrow so I can bid on these at auctions.

Check out this site.

http://www.salvagedirect.com

CPU out.

 

Hey man, you may also wanna bring your car to a detailing shop to have the interior (carpets, seats, etc) steam cleaned to prevent mold that might grow due to the flooding. Just a thought.

 

Hey CPU,

Just wanted to say to your work! That's my kind of therapy.

One ?: Why not call AAA on their towing snafu? I bet they'd take care of it...

ARFF

 

Hmm... well that's good news, but to the original poster, if you read the warranty manual, the warranty is void if the car has been considered totalled or issued a salvage title. So everything you want fixed is gonna be out of your own pocket.

Oh yeah, and uh.. w/Nada saying it's worth $16K... I'm quite sure that # is for a car that DOESN'T have a salvage title. Compared to a car w/no salvage title, when it comes time to sell, you won't be able to get very much at all for it unless the buyer is a total moron and hasn't done any research...