iRotors pics (for 2k2/2k3's)......
iRotors pics (for 2k2/2k3's)......
i come home from florida to find these in my basement. they arrived the day i left but i never had chance to post pics....if someone has already posted this, then i'm sorry if this is a repost, but i'm just coming back from miami and not about to look through all these new posts.......these new rotors look sweeeeeeeet.



**PS** if you're going to reply to this post, be sure to remove the image links, we don't need these pictures loaded 10000000000x's.....
**PS** if you're going to reply to this post, be sure to remove the image links, we don't need these pictures loaded 10000000000x's.....
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
Specs, details?
They certainly look nice.
They certainly look nice.
the option i had was slotted or x-drilled....or both...i don't like both, that looks too crowded. and x-drilled just isn't my type...so i stuck with slotted. the surrounding area of the rotors are silver zincplated to protect against rust...
now...how good are these compared to stocks....who knows...iRotors has a pretty decent background with the bimmer forums. the prices were VERY VERY good. 109F/99R if slotted/xdrilled/both or subtract 20 (89/79) if blanks. that's pretty sweet i must say.
Originally Posted by UMD_MaxSE
are those stock 5th gen rotors or the 2k4 rotors? I have a set of 2k4 rotors on order from them... hopefully they ship this week...
and i'm measuring a little under 11-3/4". like 1/8"....i dunno stock rotor sizes...anyone care to give me the stock size, or at least confirm that these sizes match?
Originally Posted by PoLo
they SHOULD be stock-sized rotors. so you dont' need that blehmco kit. my only thought is that the 2k4's should have been the only ones to come in "black". but mine are black...so if they don't fit, then we have a problem...ONLY ONE WAY TO FIND OUT. actually let' measure these rotors.....
and i'm measuring a little under 11-3/4". like 1/8"....i dunno stock rotor sizes...anyone care to give me the stock size, or at least confirm that these sizes match?
and i'm measuring a little under 11-3/4". like 1/8"....i dunno stock rotor sizes...anyone care to give me the stock size, or at least confirm that these sizes match?
those are the correct stock sizes...
The stock 2k2 rotor is 295mm x 24mm. The 300ZX TT rotor is 280mm x 30mm.
And even though the Z32 calipers are 4 piston, they're made for a much smaller diameter but thicker rotor. Not to mention you need to get wheels of a different offset for them to fit.
I have heard that the 2k4 rotors are 320mm and I know the Cobra rotors are 330mm and the Willwood kit is 335mm.
And even though the Z32 calipers are 4 piston, they're made for a much smaller diameter but thicker rotor. Not to mention you need to get wheels of a different offset for them to fit.
I have heard that the 2k4 rotors are 320mm and I know the Cobra rotors are 330mm and the Willwood kit is 335mm.
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
I figured these were stock replacements but are they better than the stock ones and if so why?
so i'm sorry that i'm not saying much, but you see why i've decided to take a chance with them. nice looking product and fair pricing.
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
Calm down Beavis. Im asking a question here, not knocking your decision. I already said that I like what I am seeing so far. I just want to know the technical stuff.
sorry if i sounded like i jumped down your throat. wasn't meant to sound like that.
Actually I think we have plenty to work with. Our brakes are much better than the 2k0,2k1s. Im still thinking about using Cobra 330mm rotors but the drawback to that is I know my slicks wont fit.
Originally Posted by Nyc2kMax
nice what pads are you running with them
In the 20 years I've been driving, I've warped every rotor imaginable. Stockers, Pep Boy-specials, Raybestos, PowerSlots, and Brembos. I've been on tons of forums and researched why this happens ad nauseum.
I'm starting to think it's all because of semi-met pads leaving deposits behind on the rotors. After 13k on my new PowerSlots I'm about to have them cut because they're lumpy and I'm thinking about switching to ceramic pads. I used PBR MMs with the powerslots. This was also a BBK w/ 13" rotors.
Back when I was first driving I had a 70 Chevelle SS that never warped rotors (used older non-metalic pads - asbestos). I also had a '77 nova, same thing.
I didn't start having problems with rotors until I started driving cars with semi-met pads.
I've blamed the rotors all these years and have tried just about every aftermarket option I have, to no avail.
Originally Posted by itdood
That's what I'm wondering.....Polo??
In the 20 years I've been driving, I've warped every rotor imaginable. Stockers, Pep Boy-specials, Raybestos, PowerSlots, and Brembos. I've been on tons of forums and researched why this happens ad nauseum.
I'm starting to think it's all because of semi-met pads leaving deposits behind on the rotors. After 13k on my new PowerSlots I'm about to have them cut because they're lumpy and I'm thinking about switching to ceramic pads. I used PBR MMs with the powerslots. This was also a BBK w/ 13" rotors.
Back when I was first driving I had a 70 Chevelle SS that never warped rotors (used older non-metalic pads - asbestos). I also had a '77 nova, same thing.
I didn't start having problems with rotors until I started driving cars with semi-met pads.
I've blamed the rotors all these years and have tried just about every aftermarket option I have, to no avail.
In the 20 years I've been driving, I've warped every rotor imaginable. Stockers, Pep Boy-specials, Raybestos, PowerSlots, and Brembos. I've been on tons of forums and researched why this happens ad nauseum.
I'm starting to think it's all because of semi-met pads leaving deposits behind on the rotors. After 13k on my new PowerSlots I'm about to have them cut because they're lumpy and I'm thinking about switching to ceramic pads. I used PBR MMs with the powerslots. This was also a BBK w/ 13" rotors.
Back when I was first driving I had a 70 Chevelle SS that never warped rotors (used older non-metalic pads - asbestos). I also had a '77 nova, same thing.
I didn't start having problems with rotors until I started driving cars with semi-met pads.
I've blamed the rotors all these years and have tried just about every aftermarket option I have, to no avail.
as far as what i'm using, i'm going with my Porterfield R4-S pads. i had them on my car for about 5k miles. i personally don't think that's a lot, and my rotors were warping before i even swapped pads. if i feel them act funny in this first month of testing, i'll swap them out asap. but if they seemt o run fine after the initial break-in, i'm keeping them.
Ceramic pads should lessen the warping effect that the metallic/semi-metallic pads have on your rotors. I'd love to be able to run composite pads and ceramic rotors, but it would take forever to heat up. Plus, I'm not too certain that ceramic rotors would hold up for every day driving (they work for some race cars, though)...
Originally Posted by Igor911
Where can we order these from or see pictures of the x-drilled?
pictures are in the general forum, under matt's thread...if and when i find it, i'll link it through.
Originally Posted by UMD_MaxSE
are those stock 5th gen rotors or the 2k4 rotors? I have a set of 2k4 rotors on order from them... hopefully they ship this week...
Originally Posted by MichaelAE
You don't happen to have a link that can give me an education on the blehmco kit? I must have been away when that discussion occurred or just missed the threads. Thanks.
well, lots of links on the .org... but this webpage should help in your education
http://www.mattblehm.com/brakes.html
basically, it consists of a relocation bracket and hardware... there are two types of relocation brackets... one allowing you to use the stock 5th gen caliper with the larger 2k4 maxima rotor and one allowing you to use Z32 calipers with the 2k4 maxima rotor. 2k4 maxima rotor = 12.6" while 2k/2k1 rotor is only 11"...
rotors were installed today. total time...about 45 minutes for the front set and about 1 hour for the rears. that's some serious time right there. the only reason the rears took me long was cause i didn't have the tool to move the piston in. other than that. they look nice, although the main goal was not for looks, but to remove this horrendous warping we have...i've driven it around a bit and so far, i'm enjoying my new stopping abilities. havne' t put it to the test, but at least my steering wheel don't shake no more. i'm quite happy. for those that were curious, they are exactly replacements, and yes the fronts are roughly 11-3/4".
some pics....and i note again: REMOVE IMAGE LINKS WHEN REPLYING.



some pics....and i note again: REMOVE IMAGE LINKS WHEN REPLYING.
another reason why rotors get warped, and it is inevitable, is the cooling ability. when you are at a stop, usually you are stepping on the brakes. that means that the rest of the rotor is cooling off whereas the area where pad contacts the rotor isn't. most times this can't be helped in a sense that at a stop, or at the drive thru, you are at some incline where the car rolls forward or backward without the brakes applied.
accumatively, this ends up with warped rotors. I am not up to speed as the degree of warpage, but this is definitely a contributing factor.
accumatively, this ends up with warped rotors. I am not up to speed as the degree of warpage, but this is definitely a contributing factor.
another reason why rotors get warped, and it is inevitable, is the cooling ability. when you are at a stop, usually you are stepping on the brakes. that means that the rest of the rotor is cooling off whereas the area where pad contacts the rotor isn't. most times this can't be helped in a sense that at a stop, or at the drive thru, you are at some incline where the car rolls forward or backward without the brakes applied.
accumatively, this ends up with warped rotors. I am not up to speed as the degree of warpage, but this is definitely a contributing factor.
accumatively, this ends up with warped rotors. I am not up to speed as the degree of warpage, but this is definitely a contributing factor.
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