Heads up! Rear brake wear
#1
Heads up! Rear brake wear
Replaced my rear brake pads at 52k, fronts about 1/2 worn. This seemed backwards. I then noticed that the rears were usually warmer than the front until yesterday AM when the right rear got warm enough to smell... Up on jackstands and nothing wrong with the mechanism but I noticed that the handbrake actuating levers weren't returning to their stops, so the handbrake was never completely off. Turns out the cable was adjusted too tight (I had never touched it). It took several turns of the adjuster at the handle to get the levers (at the calipers) all the way to their stops.
This would explain premature rear pad wear, rear rotor warping and poor gas mileage!
This would explain premature rear pad wear, rear rotor warping and poor gas mileage!
#2
I wonder if this is my problem; About two weeks ago after getting an alignment, I also noticed a "burning smell" from my driver side rear brakes. For two days smoke actually came from the rear wheels every time I pressed the breaks. I didn't understand the problem and was thinking maybe it was the high temperatures and friction between the discs and brakes, dunno. I also took my car back to where I had the alignment done thinking that they did something wrong. The mechanic said that I drive the car aggressively and it comes from the never ending stop and go traffic. I said "okay" and left. It doesn't smoke anymore, but SOMETIMES, there is a light burning smell.
#3
I just did the rears on mine at 36K and used the metal matrix pads from SW Autoworks/Stillen.
The frist time I drove the car with the new pads the rotors got so hot I burned my hand. I then checked the parkign brake and it was returning all of the way so I added some more slack to the cable. Still overly hot rotors. I then took out the shims and everything is okay. I figure in about another 1K I'll put the shims back in to stop any squealing that may arise. I swung it by a buddy's Asian repair shop and his diagnosis was the pads were too thick. I talked with Stillen and they tried to blame it on bad rotors at 36K....what a load.
The frist time I drove the car with the new pads the rotors got so hot I burned my hand. I then checked the parkign brake and it was returning all of the way so I added some more slack to the cable. Still overly hot rotors. I then took out the shims and everything is okay. I figure in about another 1K I'll put the shims back in to stop any squealing that may arise. I swung it by a buddy's Asian repair shop and his diagnosis was the pads were too thick. I talked with Stillen and they tried to blame it on bad rotors at 36K....what a load.
#4
Originally Posted by brianc
I just did the rears on mine at 36K and used the metal matrix pads from SW Autoworks/Stillen.
The frist time I drove the car with the new pads the rotors got so hot I burned my hand. I then checked the parkign brake and it was returning all of the way so I added some more slack to the cable. Still overly hot rotors. I then took out the shims and everything is okay. I figure in about another 1K I'll put the shims back in to stop any squealing that may arise. I swung it by a buddy's Asian repair shop and his diagnosis was the pads were too thick. I talked with Stillen and they tried to blame it on bad rotors at 36K....what a load.
The frist time I drove the car with the new pads the rotors got so hot I burned my hand. I then checked the parkign brake and it was returning all of the way so I added some more slack to the cable. Still overly hot rotors. I then took out the shims and everything is okay. I figure in about another 1K I'll put the shims back in to stop any squealing that may arise. I swung it by a buddy's Asian repair shop and his diagnosis was the pads were too thick. I talked with Stillen and they tried to blame it on bad rotors at 36K....what a load.
The front brakes with premium pads should last 40 - 50 K miles under normal wear with mixed driving ( hwy and city )
The rear brakes should last at least double that.
In Ontario with lots of salt and corrosion the most common problem is that the caliper pins which allow the caliper to move freely seize up. Use high quality synthetic grease to lubricate them once they are freed up.
The other thing to watch for is that the piston gets turn back in properly into the rear caliper and then line up the slots in the piston to line up with the pin on the new rear pad.
Hope that helps.
#5
I think I might have this problem too. I live in Utah where there is a lot of sand and salt on the road in the winter. I looked at my brakes the other day and noticed that the pads on the rear are as thin as a credit card, but the pads in the front still have about 1/4" left on them. I have a 2k with 70k miles, mostly freeway and have never replaced the rotors or pads.
I'll be replacing the rotors and pads this weekend.
I'll be replacing the rotors and pads this weekend.
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Huttig2009
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09-25-2015 03:31 PM