AC not cool enough
1. Find a nice shade tree.
2. Buy a $4 a/c temp gauge at your local Autozone
3. Park car in shade
4. Stick thermometer in the center A/C vent
5. Turn on car, close all windows, turn a/c to recirculate and max cool, max fan speed
6. Wait 10 mins - Temp should be 38 to 48 deg. F
If it's really not cooling (as by this test) it needs to be evacuated and then recharged with a leak dye.
Open the hood. There will be the two metal A/C lines running into the receiver/drier...one should have condensation on it and be very cold, (with the A/C on full blast after 10 mins) and the other should be warm to hot. You should be able to hear the compressor clicking on and off every couple of minutes.
Checks out ok? One cold, one hot? Still no cool air?
Get the evaporator and a/c control unit checked out -- blend door actuator, etc.
Both lines warm/hot? Low or no charge, clogged condenser, compressor not cycling, clogged lines, bad evap, bad control unit, etc, etc. Take it to a pro.
2. Buy a $4 a/c temp gauge at your local Autozone
3. Park car in shade
4. Stick thermometer in the center A/C vent
5. Turn on car, close all windows, turn a/c to recirculate and max cool, max fan speed
6. Wait 10 mins - Temp should be 38 to 48 deg. F
If it's really not cooling (as by this test) it needs to be evacuated and then recharged with a leak dye.
Open the hood. There will be the two metal A/C lines running into the receiver/drier...one should have condensation on it and be very cold, (with the A/C on full blast after 10 mins) and the other should be warm to hot. You should be able to hear the compressor clicking on and off every couple of minutes.
Checks out ok? One cold, one hot? Still no cool air?
Get the evaporator and a/c control unit checked out -- blend door actuator, etc.
Both lines warm/hot? Low or no charge, clogged condenser, compressor not cycling, clogged lines, bad evap, bad control unit, etc, etc. Take it to a pro.
I find that the AC really sucks in a Maxima. I am a mechanic and have EPA and ASE cerifications in A/C repair. I love AC work...anyways I evacuated leak tested under vacuum for around 45 min - no vacuum dropping off at all. Installed AC leak trace dye.. and repumped the system with fresh R134a. Still same AC output. I just got my windows tinted with one step below limo tint shade in the back and medium up front by 3M. I love my AC now, the car feels like a fridge when I'm driving around. I find that the small evaporator Nissan uses on the Maxima is not up to the task of the large Maxima cabin. Also they could improve the blower motor speed. I am not so sure how good the AUTO climate controll on a Maxima is vs manual controlls.
The best I've ever got mine to do (in 90f ambient, max cool) is 42f.
I thought the a/c was actually more efficient on slower fan settings? Tested at 2-3 or whatever, it was down to maybe 39f by my vent thermo.
I'm pretty happy with 38-40f on such high ambient temp. but cooler is always better here in TX!
I thought the a/c was actually more efficient on slower fan settings? Tested at 2-3 or whatever, it was down to maybe 39f by my vent thermo.
I'm pretty happy with 38-40f on such high ambient temp. but cooler is always better here in TX!
Same results here Mike, but I slightly underfilled mine by 10% to make it run a little colder. Also I think my reciever/dryer is full of crap from the system being disconnected for too long.
Evaporator is part of the whole dashboard- basically the skeleton under the dashboard holding everything togheter. Upgrading the evaporator will be impossible without some kinda diff dashboard setup from a different car all togheter. Unless Nissan made their own that was a upgrade, nothing is going to work. Just face it U aint as hot inside as U would be outside, and with tint my AC blows just fine even on 100F days and 100% humidity.
I like to use the recirc valve button on the AC to close the vent from the outside. If you use the air from inside the car instead of inside the car, its much colder...it doesn't mix hot air(outside) with the cold air being produced. If that don't help..go to an auto parts store and buy a can of 134a that has a leak sealer and the oil, all in one can. I actually bought a can that had of that stuff plus a built in gauge to make sure you don't over fill. Bought the can for 20.00. It was just like using 2 cans of the regular stuff..Worked great on neighbors grande cherokee...Have to admit that the air in my 91 Nissan, which used R12, was so much colder...but what can u do...
BlackBird, I know you are a very experienced mechanic from what I hear (on the sr20 forums i think friend mentioned you as having one bad a s s car) Anyways, walmart is selling some refrigerant stuff which seems like over the counter EPA safe freon replacement... I unno if you know what im talking about but if you do, is this good to use or any comments on it?
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