I send a few PMs to .org members on how to do a clutch, TQ converter seal repleacement or even a rear main seal.... I decided to post this quick how to do a clutch...these are out of my memory, as I do quite a few of these so here are the steps... if I butchered something up sorry- bad memory. I use a lift, most of ya gonna use jack stands sooo all warnings apply here...

Removing the air intake and battery is self explanatory so I'm going to skip that step. Get a 12mm wrench and remove the starter power wire from the starter ( battery already disconnected or there will be sparks flying !!). Then unplug the signal wire that goes into the starter- its like a single wire black wire with a grey connector. Get a 14mm deep socket and remove the bottom and upper starter bolts- then pull the starter out. Unplug all the connectors from the tranny- 00 Max should have a speedo sensor wire in the back of the tranny right at the bottom of it -all newer models don't have that sensor there no more. Then Remove the bolts along the very edge of the trans housing- that bolt it up to the engine- there should be 3 bolts there- and they are 14mm also. Remove the clutch slave cylinder from the tranny- 12mm bolts x 2. Remove the one 10mm bolt that holds the clutch line to the tranny mount. Remove the 4 tranny mount bolts from the tranny leaving the tranny mount attached to the frame of the car. Remove the wheels- 21mm lug nuts, then remove the cotter pin and remove the axle nut- which should be 34mm I belive ( Honda is 36mm so I always confuse em), push the axle in a little bit while removing the axle nut at the same time. Then remove the clip that holds the brake line to the strut, take the line off the strut mounting bracket. Remove the 2 bolts that hold the strut 17mm on one side and 19mm on the nut side, swing the steering knuckle out of the strut mounting bracket- watch out for the ABS wheel speed sensor cable not to stretch it or break it- ABS light will come on if you do. After that you can remove the axle out of the hub. Make sure the trans is drained of all manual tranny fluid and using a prybar pop the axle out- driver's side only. I stick the prybar between the differential housing tranny cover and axle end, pry on it and 99.999% of the time it comes right out. For the Passenger side axle, you need to remove the 3 12mm bolts that hold the axle to the center support- which bolts up to the engine block. Most of the time you gonna need an air hammer to separate the axle from the center support, then the axle will come out. Remove the 2 12mm bolts that hold the shifter support rod to the tranny case and let it hang. Remove the 12mm bolt and nut from the shifter gear actuator rod and let it hang from the bottom of the car. Remove the 4 14mm bolts that go through the UPPER oil pan to the tranny- the cross member WILL get in the way so you don't have to completly remove them - just get them loose out of the tranny. Remove the 10mm bolt that holds the crankshaft position sensor to the tranny- its the sensor that is sandwitched between the engine block and the tranny. You will have 2 more 14mm bolts holding the tranny up in the back and one more 14mm bolt holding up the tranny to the engine right below the Starter area. After this you are ready to remove the tranny, double check everything and if the tranny is not ready to come off then there is still a bolt or 2 holding it up. There will be 2 dowell pins that center the tranny on the engine block, whiggle the tranny off the dowell pins and carefully set it aside the car. There will be 8 12 point 10mm bolts that secure the pressure plate to the flywheel, once these are removed the Pressure plate will come off and the disk will fall out from behind the pressure plate- watch yourself as there will be lots of dust there from the clutch being used up. There should be 8 17mm bolts with locktite that hold the flywheel to the cranshaft. When installing a new flywheel make sure to lube the crank snout with some engine oil to ease the instalation of a aftermarket flywheel- like a Fidanza. ( I don't recomend getting Unorthodox cause its heavier ). NOTE- Make sure the holes on the flywheel match up with the holes on the crank before ya bolt the flywheel down to the crankshaft- failure to do so can result in catastrophic failure. Reinstall everything in reverse order of dissassembly.

 

great right up, and i do need to replace my clutch. but i think i'll just give the local shop $500.

 

I like the timing of your post! I'm in the middle of the clutch replacement as I'm typing this.

In fact, the reason I'm on here now was to see if I could find out what size the axle nut is - not in the dang service manual. I can tell you it is not 36 - so it must be 34.

****Edit: It's a friggin 32. I think 4th gens are 36******

As I go, I'll add anything I come across and any tips that'll help. Thanks for your post. I'm sure it will help me.

 

IF you guys can clean this up and put it in some kind of better Step 1, 2, 3 kind of format for the "How To" sticky it would be great.

I know I'll be needing it VERY soon. Clutch is already slipping in 2nd.

 

Now that I read that I think I'll order a new clutch. Thanks!