Are all 5th Gen Brake rotor's garbage or just mine? I have 26,000 on my 03 SE and @ 60mph or higher I hit the brakes and I get the wheel shakes. No good. Someone told me that there might be a TSB for this problem. Is there a warranty for this problem, or is it like every other wear item the customer is responsible for paying. Any help would be great.

Thanks,

Steve

 

they should fix them under warrantythey always fixed mine up o the 3yrs/36k

 

I know there is a TSB for the Brake rotor's for 2000 models but I dont know if that covers all of the 5th Gens or just the 2000. The TSB states that they'll replace them until 3yr / 36,000. Anyone know if its for all or not?

Steve

 

I took mine to the dealer and they wouldn't do anything. I ended up replacing all 4 rotors and brakes. This solved the problem. There is such a difference. My rear rotors were not even at all. There were some big bumps on them which was causing the shudder under braking.

 

My 2002 shakes heavily under braking.. after reading this sounds like I get to go in for a brake job... *sigh*

 

I had mine resurfaced for free under the warranty... how many miles are on your car, it may still be covered

 

if you stil lunder warranty take the car to the dealer and let them fix it. After that get some Powerslot rotors (your choice) with good brake pads

 

Im out of the warranty unfortunately.

 

Thanks for posting. I too, got major shaking while braking on high way. (wheels balanced)
How much did it cost to replace all the rotors and brakes?

I got the same situation. here are my options front pads good/ rear pads bad:
***I talked to dealer, said-
A) We can turn your rotors. and replace pads. fronts ($260) "we'll take a look to see if you can turn them"
B) We will install "brembo" blanks, if you bring them in and we'll replace pads. ($260? + brembo cost?)


***Local Garage guy: friendly mechanic -said
C) With 66k forgetta bout keeping/ or turning rotors -just replace. - and replace pads - ($250 replace rotors and pads)
NOTE: Rotors are wagner brand. He said he hasnt had a problem with them.

Please give your opinion on my options. I know cost is a major factor, but i would like your honest opinion.

Basically options: turn rotors, OEM rotors, Brembo, or wagner rotors. (all blanks)

THANKS,
Anthony

 

Well hopefully they'll take care of it im gonna call them in a few minutes, thanks for the info everyone.

 

go with brembo blanks all around. save yourself the headache of getting stocks.

 

My car doesn't shake when I'm driving but my rear brakes do squeek when I drive (this happened 2 days ago). So i ordered 4 Rotors Zinced.

Now i need pads and am thinking of OEMs.

 

Ok...I'm not exactly car savvy, what are blanks, does that mean they're not cross drilled?

 

Correct, blank rotors no holes or slots.

supposedly, the blanks offer the most stopping power (referring to stock size). I have read that drilled and slots can sometimes weaken rotor, if done properly.


BTW, thanks dba199us, i think i am going to go that way.

-Anthony

 

hmm..i NEVER had problems with my rotors. I just took the max to nelson ledges raceway in ohio, and the stock brakes with carbotech bobcat pads absolutley kicked a$$!! car has 22K on it

 

get them resurfaced for free @ the stealership. They should do it under warranty. Make sure u change ur front pads. Rears is not a must but get their opinion on the rears. I would go with OEM pads.

As for people over 60k miles.
- replace all 4 rotors. brembo blanks should be fine. Get blanks unless you are a racer and need high performance braking. The pads will last longer & give u less headache.

 

scratch that there is a post about pads going on right now

later,
GEne

 

I got mine with 32k and the steering wheel and car shook while slowing down form high speeds. I talked to the mechanic and he said that there is no reason to cut them, that I would just need new ones in about 10-15k miles anyway. Obviously the best thing is to replace them. I'm probably going to do it soon. I'm still under warranty, but I do not want oem rotors, no reason to go through this whole process again.

 

just throw em out and get slotted rotors why not

 

where can you get Brembo blanks online?

 

I have heard so many posts about newer Maxima rotors warping and such. I just decided to replace them. It seems like everytime I change something on my car, I always upgrade. A little more expensive but worth it IMO. I ordered 4 cross drilled rotors from Brake Pros and Hawk Performance pads from CustomMaxima. I would reccommend you replace pads and rotors on all 4 wheels. Start fresh so to speak. Good luck.

 

very close to 100K miles, and I do track events at Gingerman, and Road America on my stock brakes. Well I warped my stock rotors at 10K miles. I cut them myself at work and they where ok for another maybe 5K miles till I went to the track... ran 5 15 min sessions and I felt that when going down the straight at 115-125MPH and hitting the brakes I was getting tremendous fade, and then the brakes started to vibrate like crazy. 30K miles I get new OE rotors and Hawk HPS pads- wow, never wapred them again, I ran my car harder and harder every time now (more mods- more speed) and I haven't warped a rotor on my car in about hmm 55K miles or so. I STILL have my original rear rotors in the back with a fresh set of Akebono Proceramics from TireRackWholesale.com I experience something called rotor cracking with all the rotors I had thou. It happens from tremendous brake forces and temperatures I subject my brakes to- I acutally see my rotors glow in the dark when I come on the front staight of America at 135MPH to around 70MPH in a few seconds... it looks awesome. Stock rotors are just fine, its the crappy pads that make the rotors warp. Make sure your wheels are not overtightened cause this will also warp your rotors. Also do NOT use your emergency brake after a few hard stop- as it will warp you rear brakes. Friend of mine kept on warping rotors on his CL Type S 6spd by applying the parking brake after doing some hot lapping- I repleaced like 2 sets under warranty for him at Acura.
Here is the map of Road America track- coming from turn 14 and accelerating till turn 1 with enough ***** and top end power I had my Max up to almost 140MPH on that strech.

 

Anyone have luck with dealers repairing front brake shuddering on 2002 Maxima's? I went to a local shop and they stated I need new pads and rotors ($400). But, they said there is a TSB out for my car and that I should bring to dealer. The TSB # the local shop gave me was NTB-00-033A. Searching that TSB number I can't find anything.

I have 25,000 miles on my 2002 SE.

Your input on what dealers have done for you, and if you have seen this TSB is appreciated.

 

The dealers did not do warranty work on mine around 20k. They told me there was no TSB for 2k2's and it was only for 2k's. Paid around $250 to get them resurfaced... I try not to brake hard anymore because I'm afraid to have the problem again....

 

31 bux each for a new rotor from my local auto parts store. It will take you literally no more than a hour to repleace them yourself. I drive like a maniac and ever since I swapped from Nissan pads to Hawk HPS pads I have not warped a single rotor on my car. Stock pads would warp my rotors in no time. 250 dollars for resurfacing the rotors ? damn what a rip off, that has to be like minimum 2 hours of labor they must have charged you. I wonder what a full brake job costs ? I know all the dealers around here charge 1.5 hours of labor to do a pad slap only- which is usually around 180 bux including the parts, and with resurfacing the rotors they usually charge 280 dollars for a complete brake job ON A ACURA- plus you get a loaner car

 

97GLE:
-stock front rotors were crap (w/ Nissan pads)
-Stillen Cross Drilled front rotors cracked (w/ Hawk pads)

01GLE:
-stock front rotors were turned by Nissan under the TSB (w/ Nissan pads)
-slotted "Brembo" front rotors were crap (w/ Nissan pads)

I'm now running PowerSlot front rotors (w/ Nissan pads, SS lines, Superblue Fluid) and will never go back to stock, Brembo or Stillen

 

My local shop says there is a TSB for 2002s, but I can't find it anywhere he states # - NTB-00-033A or BR00-004A anyone have info on these TSB #s? I tried a search and could not find anything.

 

BlehmCo BBK with OEM 2k4 rotors and Axxis Metal Master pads, I warped them in roughly 2 months. 2 months of dealing with the warpage I discovered I had 2 bent wheels (left side), replaced those, then discovered my calipers were seizing (front right, specifically). I replaced them both. The front right rotor had about .0025" runout, with the front left at around .001".
Last weekend I installed iRotors with Bendix IQ Titanium metallic pads. Before break-in, the runout on the front right was .0025", runout on the front left was .002". I should recheck them soon now that they're fairly broken-in. I still have a shimmy in the steering wheel at highway speeds, but braking is smooth with the new rotors/pads.

At this point I intend to have the wheels checked again for bends and balance, and if that fails, have someone inspect the whole front end to see if they can figure out WTF is causing this shimmy...

 

Polak, I just installed Hawk HPS front pads and I don't regret it.

 

There is a TSB for "brake judder" but I don't think it applies to '02s, only '00-'01s. Check under the the TSB section. The info below is from www.nissan-techinfo.com

NTB00088

Brake judder may be described as steering wheel/body vibration or brake pedal pulsation when braking (especially during high speed braking). Brake judder may be created by excessive "thickness variation" of the brake rotors. Thickness variation is usually the result of excessive rotor run-out. While brake judder is usually associated with the front brake rotors, it may occur in the rear brake rotors as well.

NTB00033

SERVICE INFORMATION This bulletin is to assist you in responding to customer questions about brake operation, and provides diagnostic and repair information for each item listed, if any should occur. Most brake incidents fall into the following categories: a. Brake Noise: A squeak, squeal, clunk, or groan that occurs when the brakes are applied or released. b. Brake Judder: A vibration that can be felt in the vehicle, steering wheel, or brake pedal when the brakes are applied. c. Pedal Feel:The effort needed to operate the brakes is too high or too low. SERVICE PROCEDURE 1. Verify the condition by road testing the vehicle with the customer. 2. Determine the specific brake incident based on the description in the Service Information above. 3. Follow the appropriate repair procedure(s), listed on the following pages, for your specific incident. See this bulletin for further details.

 

Hey Mike!!

That's what I'm running now...

 

I had the same problem with my '00 max. I didn't have the money for a big brake kit or large enough wheels for the blemco setup, so i purchased four powerslot rotors. I have hawk performance PLUS on the fronts and hawk performance pads on the rear. The difference was and is night and day. The performance plus pads have crazy grip, although they are noisy at times and produce A LOT of brake dust over short periods of time. I would not take any of this back though. I have saved my max a few times already because of the stopping ability of this setup. Did the installation myself, easy job, well worth the money.

 

i have had brembo blanks with ceramic pads since 2/04. driven it 13000 miles and they are doing great so far. hardly any brake dust...

 

I have a 01 GXE with brake judder when braking at high speeds.

Does the TSB cover the cost for resurfacing the rotors? I have 52k miles on my Maxima now.

Thanks!

 

i put carbotech bobcat pads on my stock rotor and didnt resurface them. I raced at nelson ledges in ohio, and aside from the power steering fluid BOILING, the brakes were AWESOME. its not the rotors, its the pads....

 

that, or it's something else causing the brakes to overheat. (excessive runout, sticking calipers, etc)

 

That's what these guys say...

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm

 

I had a similar experience to many of you. I had the OEM front rotors and pads replaced at the dealer with 12k on the car due to warping. By about 20K, the problem came back and the dealer refused to do anything. I bought Raybestos front rotors and Porterfield R4-S carbon/kevlar street performance pads. Since then (with 62K on the car), I have had zero problems. I've already replaced the front pads once and also upgraded the rear pads from the OEM to the Porterfields. The car stops pretty well now. A BBK would be nice, but I no longer feel like I must do something about the brakes. Simply put, the car used to be really scary to drive in part because of the long braking distances, now it is at least acceptable.

 

Figures I posted this thread like 2 weeks ago and have been putting off doing anything and of course starting last night I some kind og slight grinding sound I wonder if it is the metal clip on one of the pads telling me the pads are close to dead. Although Im not a mechanic im wondering id it might be something different. Its really a light sound although when I go in reverse it gets louder. Do you think this is what the problem is. Looks like its time to get some rotors and pads.

 

Try NOPI (www.nopi.com). I got mine there for $22.95 each, but I think the price went up a little bit.