More pics of D2 install, someones going to kill me for this
#3
I'm .3 inches lower than the S techs and about the same height in the rear. I live in Arkansas and the roads suck here. I'll probably spend forever digging asphalt out of my grill.the pics are too dark to see, plus my gas tank is empty so the back will come down more
#8
Hmmmm. Are you sure that the slot in the camber plate is supposed to face that direction? It seems to me that the top of the strut should be able to move inboard or outboard and not diagonally like your top picture shows. In other words, the top of the strut should move in the same direction as your FSTB. Maybe there's domething different about this design?
#14
Hey guys...i just got done installing my fronts....i guesstimated my drop to be around 1.75 inches....i am not satisfied with this drop....i'm lookin for maybe a 2.5 all around....do i actually have to remove the front/rear coilovers agian if i want to go 2.5 ? or is there a way to adjust it without taking off the coilover itself?
sorry for such a newbie-ish question....but the damn D2s didnt come with instructions....and i asked around and ppl said the little purple collers are there to "fine" tune the drop (.1-.2 inches)...but if u want to lower it even more (.3-1.0 inches) you have to remove the whole coilover....is this true? once again sorry for this newbie-ish post...i never had experience with coilovers before
sorry for such a newbie-ish question....but the damn D2s didnt come with instructions....and i asked around and ppl said the little purple collers are there to "fine" tune the drop (.1-.2 inches)...but if u want to lower it even more (.3-1.0 inches) you have to remove the whole coilover....is this true? once again sorry for this newbie-ish post...i never had experience with coilovers before
#15
No, just remove the two bottom bolts and pull it away from where its mounted. Then turn the collar clockwise to tighten. You should notice the collar moving up, which will lower the car. I set mine up so that I have maximum travel and the lowered ride height. If you look at my picks you can see that the springs aren't compressed any until the car is on the ground. If you tighten the spring to lower, you'll make it ride like a covered wagon.
#16
I think its the angle plus its dark. Accord to housecor's site the S techs give you 25.5 inch from the ground to fender, the same as mine. My rears are abouta 1/4 inch higher than the S tech, but since my tank wasn't full, I figured it would drop and level out when gas was added. I can easily go another 1.5 inches lower without any problems
#17
Spelled with a I not a L for Iilac. Prounced Ii-eee-ack.
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Originally Posted by skalberti
No, just remove the two bottom bolts and pull it away from where its mounted. Then turn the collar clockwise to tighten. You should notice the collar moving up, which will lower the car. I set mine up so that I have maximum travel and the lowered ride height. If you look at my picks you can see that the springs aren't compressed any until the car is on the ground. If you tighten the spring to lower, you'll make it ride like a covered wagon.
So to raise it or lower it, you have to remove the two bolts that are torque down to ~120lbs of torque? Or it is two other bolts that you are talking refering to. That seems troublesome. Can you clarify. Thanks
#19
I am more interested in keeping good ride quality with coilovers. KPazzo intially said that his D2's rode smooth like Maxspeeds or H&R's. But after a month of driving on them, his story changed. I know the Teins aren't the best riding springs, so how does the D2's compare to the stock ride? How many miles have you put on the car since they were installed? What are the unexpected pros and cons of the coilovers? Thanks for the feedback. I am sure it will be useful for everyone.
#20
Originally Posted by Iilac
So to raise it or lower it, you have to remove the two bolts that are torque down to ~120lbs of torque? Or it is two other bolts that you are talking refering to. That seems troublesome. Can you clarify. Thanks
#21
Iilac, this is the only way I know to lower it and still keep the maximum amount of suspension travel. My main concern is keeping a tolerable ride quality. Really you should only have to do this once, unless you change you mind a lot. You can shorten the spring perch to lower as well, but a much rougher ride is expected.
Lumbee, my stock struts were worn out. So my car rode like an old Lincoln, just floated around, so comparison is poor. With the coilovers, the ride is stiffer in the front but still tolerable to me. The back really has no difference over strock to me. The car is a whole lot more responsive and funner to drive. On normal roads the car rides and handles much better than stock. I've driven about 20 miles or so on them so far, but I drove on the known bad roads where I live. They handled them better than expected. When you hit a deep manhole or about a 3-4 inch deep pothole, things got rough. As picky as I am, I'm satisified with what I have lost in ride quality, for the looks and handling I gained.
Lumbee, my stock struts were worn out. So my car rode like an old Lincoln, just floated around, so comparison is poor. With the coilovers, the ride is stiffer in the front but still tolerable to me. The back really has no difference over strock to me. The car is a whole lot more responsive and funner to drive. On normal roads the car rides and handles much better than stock. I've driven about 20 miles or so on them so far, but I drove on the known bad roads where I live. They handled them better than expected. When you hit a deep manhole or about a 3-4 inch deep pothole, things got rough. As picky as I am, I'm satisified with what I have lost in ride quality, for the looks and handling I gained.
#24
Originally Posted by XeroX
I have GCs and AGX and i saw these and im concidering the upgrade...
How do you think these would compare? are they good for the price?
how do they compare to the JICs?
How do you think these would compare? are they good for the price?
how do they compare to the JICs?
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by skalberti
Well there were no instructions included? The holes line up one way only so I'm guessing this is right, but not 100%. Also did your JIC's say for track racing cars only or for street use as well?
#28
I'll have to call Urban Imports and see if they know anything else or if this is right? I was asking about the street or race because on my box it said " for track racing cars only" My concern here is their ability to handle the rough everyday driving. I know the roads I drive daily arent track smooth.
#29
Originally Posted by Nissan SE-R
Hmmmm. Are you sure that the slot in the camber plate is supposed to face that direction? It seems to me that the top of the strut should be able to move inboard or outboard and not diagonally like your top picture shows. In other words, the top of the strut should move in the same direction as your FSTB. Maybe there's domething different about this design?
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