02 sim Question
02 sim Question
Got the 02 sim working correctly, my question is should the 02 be removed from the header after the 02 sim is install? The shop that did the install put all 02 back in the original location as factory. I know that I have to leave the 02 plugged in but do I need to remove it from the header pipe. Is this mandatory? Will it still throw codes if its still in header pipe?
Thanks
Thanks
Leave it in the pipe, thats what I did. I've had mine on for a very long time. I can get them for 25 bux shipped now from www.02simulator.com they send me some kind of a promotion for me and my friends to use. I am happy with my dual 02 sensor unit.
Originally Posted by BlackBIRDVQ
Leave it in the pipe, thats what I did. I've had mine on for a very long time. I can get them for 25 bux shipped now from www.02simulator.com they send me some kind of a promotion for me and my friends to use. I am happy with my dual 02 sensor unit.
I was thinking that one of the secondary bungs might be good for a wide band O2 on the dyno. What do you think?
I dunno, who ever installed your 02 sims must have not tapped in the right wires cause I used to get 02 sensor codes left n right for Catalitic Converter Efficiency Below Threshold- well duhh they are not there no more so I need to trick the ECU into thinking they are still there. I have not had a single check engine light for a loooong time. Yes 2ndary 02 sensor bungs are a must for a good A/F reading. Don't get fooled into "tuning" by tail pipe wide band sniffter- those are little better than the cheap AutoMeter A/F meters. I might be selling my wideband 02 controller cause I wanna get a different one with data loggn capability. My wideband uses a NTK 02 sensor- which can be had at a Honda dealer- 94 Civic *VX* 02 sensor.
http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/wbntk.htm some info on the NTK 02 sensor and where it can be bought.
Catalitic Converter Efficiency Below Threshold
That the code I used to get before the 02 sim. The ecu was reset and I have not had a check light until this morning. Now there are diffrent that the ones that I was getting before.
1147 twice - Manfauner Control/ fuel air metering
P0300 - Random Misfire
That the code I used to get before the 02 sim. The ecu was reset and I have not had a check light until this morning. Now there are diffrent that the ones that I was getting before.
1147 twice - Manfauner Control/ fuel air metering
P0300 - Random Misfire
sounds like a lean condition on the bank 1 second O2 sensor, which could be caused by alot of different reasons. As for the misfire... I dunno. Clear the codes and see if they come back at all.
Originally Posted by BlackBIRDVQ
sounds like a lean condition on the bank 1 second O2 sensor, which could be caused by alot of different reasons. As for the misfire... I dunno. Clear the codes and see if they come back at all.
I'll try that
Thanks
Originally Posted by BlackBIRDVQ
sounds like a lean condition on the bank 1 second O2 sensor, which could be caused by alot of different reasons. As for the misfire... I dunno. Clear the codes and see if they come back at all.
Wayne it sounds like you have a leak somewhere after the MAF and the headers have nothing to do with it.
With all you've done to your car it's going to be a PITA to find it. My 1st thought is to replace all of the upper IM gaskets but you may want to try and re-torque all of the IM bolts first. This is most likely happening when you're idling. Also did you ever figure out what was causing that noise in the hose connected to the rear of the upper IM.
If you come over to my house tonight I can try to tighten them down for you and read all of the snap shot data the ECU stored, your scanner won't show you that info.
Originally Posted by maximaman777
The lean condition is what's causing the misfire.
Wayne it sounds like you have a leak somewhere after the MAF and the headers have nothing to do with it.
With all you've done to your car it's going to be a PITA to find it. My 1st thought is to replace all of the upper IM gaskets but you may want to try and re-torque all of the IM bolts first. This is most likely happening when you're idling. Also did you ever figure out what was causing that noise in the hose connected to the rear of the upper IM.
If you come over to my house tonight I can try to tighten them down for you and read all of the snap shot data the ECU stored, your scanner won't show you that info.
Wayne it sounds like you have a leak somewhere after the MAF and the headers have nothing to do with it.
With all you've done to your car it's going to be a PITA to find it. My 1st thought is to replace all of the upper IM gaskets but you may want to try and re-torque all of the IM bolts first. This is most likely happening when you're idling. Also did you ever figure out what was causing that noise in the hose connected to the rear of the upper IM.
If you come over to my house tonight I can try to tighten them down for you and read all of the snap shot data the ECU stored, your scanner won't show you that info.
I thought about that (re-torque) them but tonight is a bad night. That noise that you heard that day has gone. Like you said finding that leak is going to be a B***h, but the more I think about it there is a leak some where. I'll give you a call
Carb cleaner will find your leak very quickly
Bad MAF will also trip a LEAN condition problem. I have seen it WAY too often on VW/Audis- their MAFs last hmm no more than 10K miles it seems like.
Bad MAF will also trip a LEAN condition problem. I have seen it WAY too often on VW/Audis- their MAFs last hmm no more than 10K miles it seems like.
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this after 3 day of no codes
