I decided to take off my throttle body yesterday and clean it. Well when you disconnect the throttle body you have to perform some steps into letting the computer know the position of the throttle when completely closed. The steps you're suppose to use are this:

DESCRIPTION
"Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning" is an operation to learn the fully closed position of the throttle valve by monitorizing the throttle position sensor output signal. It must be performed each time harness connector of electric throttle control actuator or ECM is disconnected.

OPERATION PROCEDURE


Turn ignition switch "ON".
Turn ignition switch "OFF" wait at least 10 seconds . Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.



Is this basically just saying turn ON the ignition and turn OFF for atleast 10 sec before cranking up. I've tried this and the info in the faq section on how to reset the ECU and I've had no luck. My check engine light is still on. My car idles about 300rpm more than it did before.

I also hear a leak when accelerating at around 2500rpm. I have an intake, but this is a new sound that wasn't there before doing this. I'm going to check my gasket on the trottle body again and make sure everything is on right again.

Any help would be appreciated guys.

 

You have an intake air leak.

I doubt you need to peform the IAVL procedure just for removing it.

 

According to something we use at school called ALLDATA even just disconnecting the TB you have to perform the IAVL. It's just like disconnecting the gas petal sensor. You have to perform a certain set of steps for that as well.

 

Looking at the FSM, you're correct.

"

“Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning” is an operation to learn the fully closed position of the throttle valve by monitorizing the throttle position sensor output signal. It must be performed each time harness connector of electric throttle control actuator or ECM is disconnected."

 

Did you disconnect the battery BEFORE you removed it and reconnect AFTER you reinstalled it?

 

No, and I bet that has something to do with it.

 

You should go through ALL the procedures listed in the HowTo.

I'd say you need to perform the IAVL procedure now, but do the others first as specified.

 

Thanks for all your help. I done the IAVL and have tried to reset the computer, but can't ever get the SES light to blink. I'll try it again.

 

If one was to disconnect the battery, then do the TB cleaning, would this also require resetting of the IAVL?

I would think so . . . . being that it states anytime it is disconnected..

 

I don't think so, since the ECU wouldn't know there had been a disconnect.

 

Isn't the 5.5 throttle body effected when you move the butterfly plate because it is drive-by-wire?

 

OH hell yeah, just sucessfully reset the ECU and no SES light. I wasn't stopping down on the gas 5 times hard enought before.

I have a question about the code that the SES light gives you as it blinks. It kept blinking over and over and over..... more than just 4 digits. I'm pretty sure it was just repeating itself. I wrote down the blink..... 10, 5, 10, 7, 10, 5, 10, 7 Now that isn't the start nor end, but just a piece in the middle.

 

P0507 - Idle Speed Control System RPM Higher Than Expected

The gases left by the carb cleaner I used probably raised the octane.

 

SES light came back on and yes that is definitly a vacuum leak. The vacuum leak is causing me to "idle higher than expected" so that would explain the IHTE light. I guess I"ll pick up another metal gasket from the dealer Monday because I bet this was a one time torque gasket. You 2k1 guys have light an o ring that goes around it while us 5.5th gen don't.

 

I guess nobody cares about my problem, but I haven't read of any 5.5th gen replacing their throttle body gasket.

 

I got the same code, P0507, after cleaning my throttle body. I doubt you have an intake leak. It seems our (2k2-2k3) throttles and ECU's are extremely sensitive to any movement of the throttle butterfly (at least as long as the battery is connected). After I cleaned it, the idle went up to about 900rpm, and the car didn't run well at all. I tried doing the IAVL procedure and the idle would drop to normal, but once I'd restart the car it would go up to 900 again. I also noticed a loss of power (although the car did run a bit smoother after the cleaning).

Anyway, I took the car to the dealer and they could not get the idle down (using the Consult). Every time they'd do the IAVL procedure, the change would not take. Also, the ECU was retarding the timing to 4 ( yes, FOUR) degrees BTDC for some reason too! The tech has worked on my car before and is a really good guy and very knowledgeable. He mentioned that someone else that worked at the dealership had the same idle problem after cleaning the throttle body too, so he called him to find out how he was finally able to fix it.

Turns out he needed to disconnect the maf, and reconnect it, all while the car is running. Then do the IAVL procedure - (after doing the other pre-required procedures). You may also have to re-set the ECU, but I don't know for sure. Anyway, you may want to try this. The idle change took after he did this. He also either checked and/or re-set the timing to 15 degrees BTDC (I'm not sure if the timing returned to normal or he had to re-set it). Hopefully you don't have the timing issue as well - if so you'll definitely need to take it to the dealer.

I know other Org members with 2K2-2K3's have actually had their throttles and/or ECU's replaced by the dealer - after getting the same code, and SES light, right after cleaning their throttle body. I'm just lucky that my tech had better instincts than to start replacing parts, and possibly me having to pay for them if the service manager had decided it was my fault - which he was initailly implying since the problem cropped up right after I cleaned the throttle (and moved the butterfly in the process)!

I think a good rule of thumb, at least on 2k2-2k3's, would be to disconnect the battery for a full 24 hours before cleaning the throttle body (although I haven't tried this so I could not say for sure if it will prevent any problems).

The car runs GREAT now, but I'm not sure what I'll do next time the throttle body could use a cleaning....

 

So did the dealer charge you anything?? I'm going Monday 11/1/04 to the dealship to check that out too!! I cleaned my TB and it's doing the exact same thing.
I also did the IAVL prcedure, ECU reset, and the gas pdeal release postion learning, and the Throttle Valve Closed learning too.....AND i disconnected the battery overnight if that worked too but nothing. That's why I'm taking it on monday.
Also, the ones who have an auto; did your transmission also act funky as well following the TB cleaning?? Mine has been surging while slowing down. it acts like I was manually downshifting the gears from D to 1 just before hitting 1000 rpms. So, in other words. If i was traveling 45 and I slowed to a stop at a light, the engine would slow down, but when it revs around 1000, it shifts into third goes up a few hundred revs and down back to 1000, shifts into second and the same would happen all the way till first. Would the TB cleaning cause that too or would that be another isolated incident??

 

Mine was high for over half a year now.....i still didn't take it to another dealer because then might void my warranty....I'm going to try this procedure tomorrow.

 

I noticed my tranny doing the same exact thing while coming home from work on Friday. I'm pretty sure I have an intake leak though, but I'll try disconnecting the MAF.

sleepermax how exactly did you do the IAVL? I don't get the turn on and off steps I listed below. I can't tell if it's doing anything.

All 2K2s should be warned about cleaning the TB. This sucks.

 

Maybe messing with the TB and all the high revs and odd trans behavior is just all a fool proof procedure to make you go to the dealership and set you back on your checkbook or creditcard to just make some adjustments on your car. If it's under warranty, who cares, but the ones who are out of warranty.......that's where they would love to set you back a few hundred.
Ever wonder how the dealership actually cleans the TB and the intake without having all these problems.....IF the actualy do it....???? We will never know... or if someone does, tell us please!!

 

Well, if you don't have any good contacts/relationships at the dealer's service department, then they may charge you a minimum of $89 to look at it.

 

I got the same problem on a 2k. Nissan says I have to change the ACC valve which controls the idle. Same problem as you, and the funny thing is that it only happened recently after I cleaned the throttle body!

 

see this link - I recommend practicing these steps MANY, many, many times before actually doing them - so you can get the timing and sequence down. If you are even half a second off, the procedures will not take: http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...&postcount=103

 

I doubt Nissan has a procedure for this. I think next time, if I even attempt it any more, I'll disconnect the battery for a minimum of 24 hours if not longer.

 

Is the throttle body learning same for a 2000?

 

see 5th Gen How-To's and FAQ........http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....03#post2480803

 

a few questions, first, what is does it mean:
PNP switch: ON <~~~~~IN PARK

what switch is this? how can it be turned on?

how about this?
Electric load switch: OFF

During the procedure, it says:
7. Disconnect throttle position sensor harness connector (brown),
This sensor is where the 2 metal threads meet on the TB, correct?

How are you suppose to check ignition timing????
Ignition timing M/T: 15°±5° BTDC
A/T: 15°±5° BTDC (in “P” or “N” position)

Thanks
Gene

 

Gene.... a lot of these checks (timing, exact engine temp ect) you can't do without the Nissan Consult (or perhaps a diagnostic tool like you can buy at AutoZone, for example) nor are you "supposed" to do any of these procedures, per Nissan. Honestly, if you don't get to a comfort level that you'd like with this stuff, I would just take the car to the dealer.

 

So after you diconnected the MAF and plugged it back in you had to reset the ECU and also the dealer had to reset your timing.

In set 3 of the Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning Procedure for 2K2+...... what does "Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound" mean.

I'm in tech school right now so if my timing is off I'm sure my instructor can show me how to adjust it.

 

I had the same exact problem with the P0507 code about a week ago. This occurred after using nitrous for the first time but I also cleaned my throttle body a few days before using the nitrous so I'm not exactly sure which caused the problem. Tried everything I could think of and finally broke down and brought it to the dealer to diagnose the problem. Turns out I needed a new ECU.

Just so that you guys know the ECU, and among other parts, are covered by the Federal Emissions Warranty...8yrs/80,000mi. which I was well under. My factory warrant did run out though. I got my ECU for free and the problem has gone away.

Problem conditions: High idle ~900 rpm, code P0507, SES light on
Car info: 2002 Maxima SE 6-sp, intake, nitrous, and ~45,000mi(at the time).
Had to remove all aftermarket parts to get teh warranty work...didn't want to take any chances. Goodluck!

 

If and when I take it in next Tues or Wednesday I'll be putting the stock air box back on.

 

I did get my idle back down to normal by doing the IALVP. I drove it around for about 30 minutes and everything was perfect. She drove perfect and even better idled perfect. Pulled into the garage, turn the car off..... waited 20 sec, turned it back on and once again the max is at 900rpm....

Sucks, the computer must be retarding my time again like it was mentioned before in this thread. I'll take it to the dealer next Wednesday and see what they think. Hopefully we can get the computer to keep the timing. If not I guess I'll use the Federal Emissions Warranty and get a new ECU, but I don't think I"ll have to go that far.

 

I'm going tomorrow Monday the 1st to the dealership and see what's up with it. I'll keep posted what they told me. Hopefully it's not drastic but who knows. I have to reinstall my stock air-box so they won't just blame that for all this....

 

Please do that, thanks. I'm not off until Wednesday.

 

My local nissan dealer took 100 bucks for a diagnostic in which they laid a whole bunch of crap.

I have 2000 auto and I recently changed my motor mounts to the Place Racing poly mounts. When I went to Nissan, they blamed these mounts, "the ECU talks with the mounts". That is bolony, as the mounts do not have a sensor! They are electrical but still.

He blames the motor mounts for making the computer off by timing , and says the AAC valve is now defective as well as the ECU. And since the idle has been so high, the 3 way cat is now clogged up.

Nissan has too many idiots working at their service department, I rather just do it myself.

 

Well, went today to the dealer. and they checked my engine out and the results were that they are going to replace the TB for me. I guess it became defected......who knows. I have 39,923 miles and it was under warranty so no problems.....if the suppose problem wasn't under warranty, it would be a $75 car check and $???? ( A LOT ) for the TB. Unfortuantly they did not have the TB in stock so they ordered one and I'm going Friday to have to replaced.

Just to be on the safe side, go with your stock intake if you're going to get it checked....just so they won't get a fit on you and blame your intake for the problems...

It was interesting but when I installed my stock intake my car felt stronger and smoother than with the Injen CAI....that's because when I looked at the CAI filter.....it was freaking BLACK and just full of crap. I never knew how quiet was the engine when you floor it!! I guess I got used the injen intake's louder tone.

So while you have your stock intake on, just give your CAI filter a good clean....I did, and also I'm going to SeaFoam the engine as well on Thursday so the whole intake and engine is clean and the CAI filter for the new TB on Friday. The only problem is I can't find that Seafoam anywhere though. Bummer.

Anybody who lives in Los Angeles, CA area know where I can purchase Seafoam? THANKS!

 

Just out of curiosity, did you try re-setting the ECU and the other stuff (disconnecting the maf ect), I mentioned that my tech did?

 

When I take mine in I'm telling them about how when I do the IALVP is runs perfect, but as soon as the car is turned off and back on the computer forgets my idle. I'm expecting them to just have to use the Consult tool to make my ECU remember the timing.

 

I actually did before going to the dealership. I had a few errands to do so I did the MAF disconnect after it was all warmed up but it died on me almost immediately. Looked like the car was sufficating and it just flat-lined in the ER.
I tried it again and it held long enough to reconnected it again. after that I did the ecu reset, throttle close and postion procedures and the IVAL one too. It seemed to work afterwards, but after a couple of startups, it seem it all went to waste cause it went back to it's old self again. The SES light turned on when I was entering the dealership....at least they found the error code fresh in the ECU.

 

You may just want play dumb and not tell them you did the IALVP or anything else....I wouldn't unless you have a good realtionship with the service dept.