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Car turns off, WHY???

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Old 11-28-2004, 01:26 PM
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Car turns off, WHY???

Just a question and i am not sure if it has been asked before or not or if anyone else has/has had this problem before or not.
The problem is that when i am driving at any milege in any gear (3-5th usually) and then i throw it into neutral as i am coming to a stop and i am pressing on my brake the Car's RPM drops as it is suppose to, but drops completely and turns off. This has been going on few more than a few months now, almost 6 months and i cant figure out what it is.
In order for it not to turn off, i need to stay in gear or down shift to 2nd right as i am about to stop and keep my foot on the clutch until complete stop and then be able to move into neutral and let my foot off the clutch pedal.
I have cleaned the Throttle Body thinkiing it was that but it still does it.

Anyones help would be greatly appr.
Post in the thread, PM me or email - morovasa@shu.edu
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Old 11-28-2004, 09:18 PM
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Don't know much about stick shifts but car turning off sounds like 1) ignition coil $500, or 2) mass air flow sensor $300, dealer's prices.
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Old 11-28-2004, 10:57 PM
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does this happen when your car is cold in the morning also or just after its been warmed up?
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Old 11-28-2004, 11:01 PM
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I'm assuming there are no check engine lights?
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Old 11-29-2004, 05:44 AM
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I too have a 2000 Maxima SE (man. tranny).

This thing you're describing happened to me twice in the last 3 months. A couple of days ago, the Service Engine Soon light came on and I retrieved the code --> P1320 which is for ignition coils.

When you first start your car in the morning and leave for work, does it have some kind of engine knock when in 2nd or 3rd gear?... this also happens to me until the engine's warm, and all this is related to ignition coils needed to be replaced.

Look at the multipage thread about Ignition Coils. Might find your answer...
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Old 11-29-2004, 02:26 PM
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Idle control module?
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Old 11-29-2004, 07:12 PM
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Well first off let me thank you guys who replied to my thread.
It doesn't happen when my car is cold right when i start, it only happens after the car warms up and i have been driving it for atleast a few minutes.
NO engine lights have come on and i even checked for codes but gave me nothing at all. I also dont hear any kind of nock in any gear - like MrPoisse asked above.

HenryNYC1: i heard something about this before by a fellow maxima driver who is not part of the org. He said he had heard of it being a problem in some 2K-2K1. Do you know about it?? Have you had to change/replace it? Do you know how much it would cost??
Again thanks for all your help
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Old 11-29-2004, 07:20 PM
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Clean ur throttle Body.....if u wanna really **** bricks wait till it gets worse and while ur in 3rd or 4th gear with out switching to neutral and u hit a bump...........***can u steer when the car is off??***XD
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Old 11-30-2004, 10:08 AM
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my car ia a 2000 auto and it had the same problem since i like to put it in N when coming to a stop or even driving i would put it in N and it does that.
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Old 11-30-2004, 10:30 AM
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It's probably your MAF sensor. I have a 2K (Manual) and had the same exact problem, i took it to the dealer and they changed the MAF sensor and havent had any problems since.
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Old 12-01-2004, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 2000 Maximus
Well first off let me thank you guys who replied to my thread.
It doesn't happen when my car is cold right when i start, it only happens after the car warms up and i have been driving it for atleast a few minutes.
NO engine lights have come on and i even checked for codes but gave me nothing at all. I also dont hear any kind of nock in any gear - like MrPoisse asked above.

HenryNYC1: i heard something about this before by a fellow maxima driver who is not part of the org. He said he had heard of it being a problem in some 2K-2K1. Do you know about it?? Have you had to change/replace it? Do you know how much it would cost??
Again thanks for all your help
It doesn't happen when cold because the engine is usually idling higher.

I had this problem and doing the fuel cut reprogram on my ecu solved it. I also had it when I failed to reinstall my cai properly and the hose after the maf but before the throttle body was allowing air in that wasn't measured by the maf.
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Old 12-01-2004, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Max_Gator
It doesn't happen when cold because the engine is usually idling higher.

I had this problem and doing the fuel cut reprogram on my ecu solved it. I also had it when I failed to reinstall my cai properly and the hose after the maf but before the throttle body was allowing air in that wasn't measured by the maf.

Hmm, i may have to look into that.
How much did it cost to reprogram the ecu for that, i am kinda looking for a way to fix without replacing the MAF. I am guessing that a nissan dealership did it for ya. how long did it take for them to do it??
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Old 12-05-2004, 12:25 AM
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How much did it cost to reprogram the ecu??? And where do i need to get it done. (is nissan dealership the only place i can go for that)
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Old 12-05-2004, 05:52 PM
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i had this problem when my MAF was bad ~$300
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Old 12-06-2004, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by 2000 Maximus
Well first off let me thank you guys who replied to my thread.
It doesn't happen when my car is cold right when i start, it only happens after the car warms up and i have been driving it for atleast a few minutes.
NO engine lights have come on and i even checked for codes but gave me nothing at all. I also dont hear any kind of nock in any gear - like MrPoisse asked above.

HenryNYC1: i heard something about this before by a fellow maxima driver who is not part of the org. He said he had heard of it being a problem in some 2K-2K1. Do you know about it?? Have you had to change/replace it? Do you know how much it would cost??
Again thanks for all your help
This actually has not happen to my Max, But It did happen to my Avenger. The car would run fine for a while but every so offen. When the car comes to a stop. It would drag the RPM so low that the car will just stall out. I can however start the car right up but must hold the gas at 2-3k rpm for 10 seconds or so till it actually return to normal idle. I'm not sure about the cost for the Max but the cost for the IAC motor for my Avenger was 80ish from dealer, I did the replacement myself since it was bolted to the throttle body by 2 screws. I'm fairly new to the Max but It should have a similar setup. Just check the throttle body area and see if you can remove/replace the IAC motor yourself. Hope this helps.
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Old 12-06-2004, 11:13 AM
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There is a tsb for fuel cut on the 2ks. They update the ecu and then - I believe - relearn the idle etc. I think you can find the tsb on this forum in the tsb thread.

I would take the car to them and let them know that tsb needs to be performed. I don't think they charge you for that.

You can test to see if you have a fuel cut problem by - once the car is fully warmed up and with a/c off -trying to maintain 1500 rpms in neutral. (I think that's the correct rpm - you may want to search). If you can't do it - then the ecu hasn't been updated.

Car must be fully warm or you WILL be able to hold the rpm steady.
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