2kGLE

Ok I will try to keep this short as possible. My engine had been burning oil for a while and I had been thinking about rebuilding or swapping it, but last night something horrible happened. I changed my oil and filter, checked the oil level, and double-checked to make sure everything was tight and no oil was leaking. I started the car and a few seconds later I heard “CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK!!!” and I shut off the engine. I looked under the car and there was a lake of oil. After jacking up the car I figured out what the problem was. Somehow when I pulled the old oil filter off, part of the rubber seal stuck or got caught and half of it ripped off and was somehow hanging there or something (no idea how that happened). At any rate, when I tightened up the new oil filter, the edge of the rubber piece from the old filter got stuck under the seal of the new filter. Even though it was tightened up hard and oil wasn’t leaking, when I turned on the engine the pressure just shot the oil out like crazy. So…I fixed that and refilled it and now my car is burning so much oil that smoke just pours out of the tailpipe and the smell is awful; that engine is toast. I only turned it on for a little bit to figure this out, but my engine is f@<k3d up.

I beat on that engine every day for ~100,000 miles so I’m not too broken up about this. I just need to fix it over winter break, and maybe add some headers while im at it. So what do you guys think I fried? Worth rebuilding? So, should I…
A) Have my mechanic rip the engine apart and rebuild it
B) Find a VQ30 or VQ35 and swap it
or
C) Sell the POS as is and buy something else.
?
Also, a VQ35 from a 2k2/3 will bolt up to a 5spd tranny, correct? I remember reading that somewhere but I want to make sure. I figure if I’m going to replace my engine I might as well make it a 3.5l. What exactly would be required? Everything is basically the same under the hood aside from the engine and ecu right? I’m not sure if anyone has done this yet but is there any reason why it wont work? A VQ35 with headers and tons of aftermarket options in my 5spd 2k would be sweet

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Put in the 3.5VQ. Do a write up and let us know how it went!

vortechpower

iTrader: (1)

Or just replace the motor which would be the easiest to do. $400 or so for a motor.

1N10SITY

2k2!!!!!!!!!

I30swimmer

come on my freind.. lets go for the 3.5 youll be a sleeper just waiting for a race.

mdloops

I would buy a new car since your car already has so many miles on it.

2kGLE

Yes im sure everyone wants to see me attempt a 3.5 swap. When finals are over i will begin searching for a freshly wrecked 3.5, but i need a little more info before i go buying anything. What exactly am i going to need? engine/ecu/harness/maf what else? The gauge cluster gets the speed from the abs on both so that shouldnt be a problem like on 4th gens. The tranny should bolt up i believe, so that shouldnt be a problem. I need a little constructive criticism here. Can anyone confirm any of this? What am I forgeting here? Somebody tell me why this wont work.

btw mdloops - the only thing thats wrong with the car is the engine. i have new struts/springs/brakes/etc and im gonna change the bushings so if this swap is straight forward its probably still gonna be the best bang for my buck.

edit - o and does the engine need to be manual or only from a maxima? What about a 3.5 altima engine?

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

Altima engine has a diff block, you need a 5.5 gen 3.5L engine or the mounts will not line up. Altima uses a totally diff engine cradle- subframe. I seriously would just get a 3.5L bottom end, 3.0L top. 5spd tranny fits, but make sure to use a 5spd flywheel n clutch with it too. If you could get a harness, ECU and all of it, then I would possibly just do the whole engine swap. Be prepared as there will be alot of complications- like your speedo will not work etc. 2000 Maximas use ALOT of 4th gen technology, where 01s are very similar to the 02s as far as electronics go. I would just stick to the 3.0, if you beat on the car that hard... 3.5L will not last you any longer. You can get a 3.0L for like 200-300 bux used, plus headers and have $$$ left over. Used 3.5Ls go for over 1200 bux plus ! Save yourself the headache, just do a 3.0L.

white m3 guy

iTrader: (6)

for the time and money that would be wasted i would just throw a 3.0 and boost it
it would be more worthwile

2kGLE

Blackbird,
Thank you for the info. So basically I will have the same issues as the 4th gens with the bcm, speedo, ac, etc etc... I already have an ae 5spd conversion btw but im still running on the auto ecu (speedo works but no cruise control). If there will still be problems even with the 5.5 gen ecu and harness then *** it. I knew there must be some reason it wouldnt work. I dont really have any interest in doing just the bottom end; it doesnt seem worth the trouble with the 3.0 heads.

Gandalf

What electronics are left after a full swap beyond gauges? Perhaps I am not aware of the full extent of the BCM's role in the operation of electronic accessories, but if that were to be swapped what would the issue be?

2kGLE

I’ve been thinking about this and I’m still not convinced that this is swap all that difficult. What you might not realize is that I already did a 5spd conversion with a 2001 AE vlsd tranny. My speedometer works. In another thread you posted:
But I know for a fact that isn’t true. My instrument cluster works. I have a 2000 and my car definitely uses the wheel speed sensors to tell the ECU how fast I’m going. So why shouldn’t this be fairly straight forward? When I did the 5spd conversion I found a freshly wrecked AE and got every last thing I needed right there for cheap. Why shouldn’t I be able to find a 2k2/3 with everything still under the hood and take whatever I need? It’s seems like its just a matter of getting that list together. I'm not understanding what 4th gen technology my car uses that would prevent me from doing this.

Yaco_Max

iTrader: (6)

http://www.getcrashparts.com

You can get almost everything but I'm not sure about the prices ( fair or not!!)

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

5spd manual tranny and early build automatics didn't use wheel speed sensors to tell the ECU how fast your going. The later model cars switched over to the newer design, and all 01s have had it, later 01s like mine have Data Bus lines already installed in the car. You would need the whole dash out of a 3.5L in order to make things work. The cluster harness is different, the plugs that plug into the fuse boxes are different- these supply power to the ECU. I am aware of you having a AE tranny in the car, you are the only GLE I know of that has done that. Basically you need a front clip of a 3.5L Max to make it work, and make sure you get a 6spd clip, or ECU will freak out when it don't see a auto tranny. This makes things even more complicated, cause getting a 6spd clip is hard, and converting a auto 3.5L to a manual is something that will cost ya alot of $$$ in harness' and sensors. I would just get a 3.0L, I don't see why everyone is sooo hung up on the 3.5L ? I have driven them and I am NOT impressed. All new cars are soo watered down its not even funny.

mdloops

the 3.5L is superior in terms of performance but why waste your money? If you have the money to consider doing this you have the money to trade in what you got left and buy another car. I would just buy another car if I was you.

rbneron

Stick with the engine the car was designed for: a 3.0. You need a car, not a never-ending project.

If you want a 3.5, sell yours after getting it working again and buy a later model Maxima.