I had my battery replaced in my 2k2 at the 46k mark. This is the wierd thing. I've had slight engine knock/ping for about a 1.5 years. I've tried everything with exception of new plugs. After the Red Top was installed, the engine knock/ping is gone completely. Can someone explain why? The car feels much better as well.

 

Your sensors, coils, other component are getting enough juice now, because the electricity is flowing better?

 

Ahhh bulls$#t.....

 

I don't know man, but it could be the same concept as the hyperground kit. Better current, better running motor.

 

the battery only provides the crank neded to turn the car on... the alternator is the one who gives the power needed to move everything in the car..... to me a battery is just a battery and nothing else. I will call my brother tonight who is a mechanical eng and see if I'm right or wrong......but to me is Bull

 

as I mentioned in the other thread in Gen. discussion, the battery does serve a purpose to the running engine.

First off, disconnecting it with a running engine might cause the alternator to overload itself (trying to charge the battery as fast as it can, since the voltage coming from it has dropped to 0), although I'm not 100% sure if that applies to modern cars (i.e. if the voltage regulators have a failsafe to prevent that condition)

Second, the battery provides a voltage base for the electrical system--as the alternator puts out current, its current is a Pulsed DC waveform (DC with an "AC ripple" on top). If this AC ripple waveform drops below battery voltage, the battery will smooth it out by providing power to "fill in the gap."
Likewise, I believe the battery acts as a huge capacitor, absorbing excessive voltage above battery voltage, therefore stabilizing the waveform.
A bad connection to the battery could cause extra AC ripple to be present in the car's electrical power supply, and (this is speculation) possibly cause performance problems if it impacts the coils' functionality, ECU signals (probably not as likely since I bet the ECU uses voltage regulators with filtering capacitors), etc.

 

I just got on the .org to ask you guys a question which Optima battery you run, and any fitment problems, my starter is slowly taking a **** and I need a new battery at the same time, I was looking at Wesco Miata battery, and the Optima 51R Honda Civic, Integra battery for my car- since its smaller and lighter than the normal size battery. I'm looking to shave some weight off the car and battery does weight alot, which battery would ya recomend ? I don't have any large system in my car or anything- weight is a issue here. Any suggestions ? I will buy the battery now if someone gives me a good link or something.

 

the car will only run for about an hour at the most with no battery had to do it twice the battery helps keep a constant voltage being put out which in turn make for a better smoother running car

 

[quote]
First off, disconnecting it with a running engine might cause the alternator to overload itself (trying to charge the battery as fast as it can, since the voltage coming from it has dropped to 0), although I'm not 100% sure if that applies to modern cars (i.e. if the voltage regulators have a failsafe to prevent that condition)
[quote]


No doubt that. If you unhook a battery charger does it overheat when still plugged in? A weak battery will overload an alternator, but with no battery there's no electrical resistance to overload it.

 

Very interesting discussion. I assure you it's not bull. 2nd day in a row with no knocking/pinging with the new battery.

BlackBIRDVQ: There are plenty of good batteries out there. Optima's are great batteries although they are very expensive. Interstate also makes a good battery.

 

97.00 at costco 134 for the blue tops

 

Crap. I forgot to check Costco. I paid $129 for the Red Top.

 

yep costco has the red top 35-75 for 97

 

Alright, I guess I can't let this go. The knocking and pinging hasn't returned. I know to fully reset the ECU you either have to unhook the battery for a day or two or do a long process. When they exchanged the battery and unhooked the cable, would that cause the ECU to want go into learn mode again to adjust the fuel air mappings again?

 

My thought is that disconnecting the battery has reset your ecu. The fact that the new battery is an expensive one has no impact.

A battery is a battery. It produces potential difference (voltage), causing electron flow(current). Expensive batteries may be made slightly differently, but in the end all batterys do the same thing.

 

I guess that's why I've been trying to find the answer to this question. I realize that a battery is a battery regarding this particular application, therefore it should have no correlation to this particular problem.

 

virus- for your 2k2, disconnecting the battery will not reset the ECU...you must do the procedure....

1. turn on ignition, wait 3 seconds
2. step on gas all the way and release 5 times
3. wait 7 seconds then floor the gas pedal and hold it
4. wait 10 seconds until the SES light starts blinking, release.
5. floor it right after you release it for another 10 seconds.
6. turn off ignition and wait 3 seconds....
7. start up the car and now your ecu has been officially reset.