My most noticeable performance mod!!!
Sup Fellas... :vampire:
So far in terms of performance mods as you can see in my sig, I've gotten the Place-Racing CAI, Cali-Spec Cattman Y-Pipe and most recently I got the Unorthodox Racing Underdrive Pulley...
First thing I got was the CAI...I've never been Dyno'd before so I dont know how much HP I truly got but the main thing I noticed was the sound...the awesome low pitch growl it gave my car...the actual power increase seemed to be minimal, but noticeable.
With the Y-Pipe, it was the same thing. It made that growl a bit lower but, by now means was it too loud. As a matter of fact it sounds perfect to me! The power increase again was noticeable but it didn't blow my hair back...
It was with the underdrive pulley that I had the most noticeable difference in performance. Its made my acceleration must faster. Again I've never timed myself or been Dyno'd but anyone would be able to tell the difference with this mod...it was well worth it and it wasn't even as expensive as the other two I have...ASK SOMEBODY!!!
ONE...
Deac
So far in terms of performance mods as you can see in my sig, I've gotten the Place-Racing CAI, Cali-Spec Cattman Y-Pipe and most recently I got the Unorthodox Racing Underdrive Pulley...
First thing I got was the CAI...I've never been Dyno'd before so I dont know how much HP I truly got but the main thing I noticed was the sound...the awesome low pitch growl it gave my car...the actual power increase seemed to be minimal, but noticeable.
With the Y-Pipe, it was the same thing. It made that growl a bit lower but, by now means was it too loud. As a matter of fact it sounds perfect to me! The power increase again was noticeable but it didn't blow my hair back...
It was with the underdrive pulley that I had the most noticeable difference in performance. Its made my acceleration must faster. Again I've never timed myself or been Dyno'd but anyone would be able to tell the difference with this mod...it was well worth it and it wasn't even as expensive as the other two I have...ASK SOMEBODY!!!
ONE...
Deac
Hey what's up,
I've thinking about getting some myself but wasn't sure how my A.C and stuff like that would work have you noticed any thing bad.Also where did you get yours from and who installed them ?
Thanks "O"
I've thinking about getting some myself but wasn't sure how my A.C and stuff like that would work have you noticed any thing bad.Also where did you get yours from and who installed them ?
Thanks "O"
Re: Kev...
Originally posted by MOBOY
You have had your UP on for sometime now. How much HP do you think it gives you? Doe the idle go down or or up with the Underdrive pulleys? How much do they cost and how easy are they to install?
You have had your UP on for sometime now. How much HP do you think it gives you? Doe the idle go down or or up with the Underdrive pulleys? How much do they cost and how easy are they to install?
The idle is fine.
I bought mine from Stillen for $179 (including tax and shipping), but not including the 2 belts which cost $28.
Install was pretty simple after we figured out an easier way.
I'd say it'll probably take about an hour for the install.
Re: Re: Kev...
Originally posted by Y2KevSE
I'd say it gives about 2 whp, but I don't have dyno numbers to prove/disprove the estimate.
The idle is fine.
I bought mine from Stillen for $179 (including tax and shipping), but not including the 2 belts which cost $28.
Install was pretty simple after we figured out an easier way.
I'd say it'll probably take about an hour for the install.
I'd say it gives about 2 whp, but I don't have dyno numbers to prove/disprove the estimate.
The idle is fine.
I bought mine from Stillen for $179 (including tax and shipping), but not including the 2 belts which cost $28.
Install was pretty simple after we figured out an easier way.
I'd say it'll probably take about an hour for the install.
Originally posted by Green 2kSE
This post is very surprising given that most people get 2-3hp from the UDP and 10-15 from the y-pipe. I'm sceptical and I don't think one can "feel" 2-3hp difference on a Maxima.
This post is very surprising given that most people get 2-3hp from the UDP and 10-15 from the y-pipe. I'm sceptical and I don't think one can "feel" 2-3hp difference on a Maxima.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Kev...
Originally posted by Y2KevSE
You're typical wrenches... 10, 12, 14, 17, 19... flathead, philips.
IIRC, 19 socket(?) with a breaker bar.
You're typical wrenches... 10, 12, 14, 17, 19... flathead, philips.
IIRC, 19 socket(?) with a breaker bar.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Kev...
Originally posted by punkdork
Hrmm is there a write-up on this anywhere (especially the new method you discovered)? and pardon my ignorance IIRC?
Hrmm is there a write-up on this anywhere (especially the new method you discovered)? and pardon my ignorance IIRC?
IIRC = if I recall correctly
Instructions? Hmmmmm... here's a quickie:
1) Loosen all belt tension and take off the belts.
2) To take the stock crank pulley off, put the 19(?) socket with breaker bar over the pulley bolt.
3) Place the breaker bar against the control arm of the car.
4) Have someone crank the car for a split second (don't start the car) to break the bolt free.
5) Do all the mumbo jumbo stuff and swap the stock pulley with the UDP.
6) To tighten the bolt, take a hammer and whack the breaker bar on the right side (clockwise). This procedure acts like an "impact" gun.
7) Give the breaker bar about 5-10 good whacks and you should be fine. * Who needs to torque it down to the correct spec anyways? *

8) Tighten belt tensions
9) Laugh at people who actually took their starter off and used a pry bar to stop the flywheel. Get laughed at by the starter people because the crank pulley is not torqued to the correct spec.
10) Done.
If you take your car to a shop, they won't torque the pulley bolt down to the correct spec anyways.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Kev...
Originally posted by Y2KevSE
Hehehe...
IIRC = if I recall correctly
Instructions? Hmmmmm... here's a quickie:
1) Loosen all belt tension and take off the belts.
2) To take the stock crank pulley off, put the 19(?) socket with breaker bar over the pulley bolt.
3) Place the breaker bar against the control arm of the car.
4) Have someone crank the car for a split second (don't start the car) to break the bolt free.
5) Do all the mumbo jumbo stuff and swap the stock pulley with the UDP.
6) To tighten the bolt, take a hammer and whack the breaker bar on the right side (clockwise). This procedure acts like an "impact" gun.
7) Give the breaker bar about 5-10 good whacks and you should be fine. * Who needs to torque it down to the correct spec anyways? *
8) Tighten belt tensions
9) Laugh at people who actually took their starter off and used a pry bar to stop the flywheel. Get laughed at by the starter people because the crank pulley is not torqued to the correct spec.
10) Done.
If you take your car to a shop, they won't torque the pulley bolt down to the correct spec anyways.
Hehehe...
IIRC = if I recall correctly
Instructions? Hmmmmm... here's a quickie:
1) Loosen all belt tension and take off the belts.
2) To take the stock crank pulley off, put the 19(?) socket with breaker bar over the pulley bolt.
3) Place the breaker bar against the control arm of the car.
4) Have someone crank the car for a split second (don't start the car) to break the bolt free.
5) Do all the mumbo jumbo stuff and swap the stock pulley with the UDP.
6) To tighten the bolt, take a hammer and whack the breaker bar on the right side (clockwise). This procedure acts like an "impact" gun.
7) Give the breaker bar about 5-10 good whacks and you should be fine. * Who needs to torque it down to the correct spec anyways? *

8) Tighten belt tensions
9) Laugh at people who actually took their starter off and used a pry bar to stop the flywheel. Get laughed at by the starter people because the crank pulley is not torqued to the correct spec.
10) Done.
If you take your car to a shop, they won't torque the pulley bolt down to the correct spec anyways.
Can you add this to the how-to sticky? Thanks!
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Kev...
Originally posted by Mikesmaxatl
Can anybody help me with the following:
What does an under drive pulley do?
Does it void the factory warranty?
Can it be added to my auto max?
Can anybody help me with the following:
What does an under drive pulley do?
Does it void the factory warranty?
Can it be added to my auto max?
More instructions and pics from Greg's site
http://www.greghome.com/Greg's%20Garage/1999%20Nissan%20Maxima%20SE/Underdrive%20Pulley.htm
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Kev...
Originally posted by punkdork
You're coming out to help me with this when??
Can you add this to the how-to sticky? Thanks!
You're coming out to help me with this when??
Can you add this to the how-to sticky? Thanks!

BTW, check the sticky thread for more info or https://maxima.org/maxfaqs/sub_perfo...Performance_2a
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Kev...
Originally posted by punkdork
You're coming out to help me with this when??
Can you add this to the how-to sticky? Thanks!
You're coming out to help me with this when??
Can you add this to the how-to sticky? Thanks!
Re: More instructions and pics from Greg's site
Originally posted by The New CLIMAX
http://www.greghome.com/Greg's%20Garage/1999%20Nissan%20Maxima%20SE/Underdrive%20Pulley.htm
http://www.greghome.com/Greg's%20Garage/1999%20Nissan%20Maxima%20SE/Underdrive%20Pulley.htm
We need to remove the starter. One of the starter bolts is torque down very hard. Turbo95Max and I had to ghetto-rig a super breaker bar to break the bolt loose.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Kev...
Originally posted by CIRCO
Hey punkdork I would help you install if you get it so that I could install my own.
Hey punkdork I would help you install if you get it so that I could install my own.
My next project is Tokicos once I get em from Kev. So it'd probably be a month or two.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Kev...
Originally posted by punkdork
I just may take you up on that.
My next project is Tokicos once I get em from Kev. So it'd probably be a month or two.
I just may take you up on that.
My next project is Tokicos once I get em from Kev. So it'd probably be a month or two.
Supposedly, they received a shipment of 4th gen top hats Wednesday... supposedly, they received my spring today... and supposedly, I'll be getting the coilovers tomorrow (we're both in NorCal so it's basically overnight). We'll see...
Originally posted by Y2KevSE
OK, I've been hounding Ground Control.
Supposedly, they received a shipment of 4th gen top hats Wednesday... supposedly, they received my spring today... and supposedly, I'll be getting the coilovers tomorrow (we're both in NorCal so it's basically overnight). We'll see...
OK, I've been hounding Ground Control.
Supposedly, they received a shipment of 4th gen top hats Wednesday... supposedly, they received my spring today... and supposedly, I'll be getting the coilovers tomorrow (we're both in NorCal so it's basically overnight). We'll see...
Originally posted by punkdork
No rush Kev... I'm still waiting on Psing.. his bank's been giving him gruff. Thats why I keep all my money in an old sock under my mattress!
No rush Kev... I'm still waiting on Psing.. his bank's been giving him gruff. Thats why I keep all my money in an old sock under my mattress!

If I get them tomorrow, hopefully they'll be installed on Sunday.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Kev...
Originally posted by Y2KevSE
Instructions? Hmmmmm... here's a quickie:
1) Loosen all belt tension and take off the belts.
2) To take the stock crank pulley off, put the 19(?) socket with breaker bar over the pulley bolt.
3) Place the breaker bar against the control arm of the car.
4) Have someone crank the car for a split second (don't start the car) to break the bolt free.
5) Do all the mumbo jumbo stuff and swap the stock pulley with the UDP.
6) To tighten the bolt, take a hammer and whack the breaker bar on the right side (clockwise). This procedure acts like an "impact" gun.
7) Give the breaker bar about 5-10 good whacks and you should be fine. * Who needs to torque it down to the correct spec anyways? *
8) Tighten belt tensions
9) Laugh at people who actually took their starter off and used a pry bar to stop the flywheel. Get laughed at by the starter people because the crank pulley is not torqued to the correct spec.
10) Done.
If you take your car to a shop, they won't torque the pulley bolt down to the correct spec anyways.
Instructions? Hmmmmm... here's a quickie:
1) Loosen all belt tension and take off the belts.
2) To take the stock crank pulley off, put the 19(?) socket with breaker bar over the pulley bolt.
3) Place the breaker bar against the control arm of the car.
4) Have someone crank the car for a split second (don't start the car) to break the bolt free.
5) Do all the mumbo jumbo stuff and swap the stock pulley with the UDP.
6) To tighten the bolt, take a hammer and whack the breaker bar on the right side (clockwise). This procedure acts like an "impact" gun.
7) Give the breaker bar about 5-10 good whacks and you should be fine. * Who needs to torque it down to the correct spec anyways? *

8) Tighten belt tensions
9) Laugh at people who actually took their starter off and used a pry bar to stop the flywheel. Get laughed at by the starter people because the crank pulley is not torqued to the correct spec.
10) Done.
If you take your car to a shop, they won't torque the pulley bolt down to the correct spec anyways.
I wouldn't recommend trying any other way of removing this bolt unless you have an air compressor and an impact wrench. All else is a waste of time... believe me, I spent a lot of time working on it before doing like Kev suggested and using my starter. Once I tried that it was off in a matter of minutes.
I have one more thing to add to step #5. I'd recommend putting some anti-sieze on the crank shaft or inside edge of the new pulley. This will keep them from "corroding". (You know how unlike metals don't like each other!)
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Kev...
Originally posted by Desert Pearl
Regarding step #3 above, I actually put my bar above the control arm. There is a subframe type structure right above the control arm. I put my wrench in that area and put a rag under the wrench so it was touching the subframe. Then I ran around and blipped the starter. On the third blip it broke free. These were very short blips because I didn't disconnect the coil to keep it from starting. It was a "tick" on the first try... a "tick" on the second... and a "wrrrr-wrrrr" on the third and I knew it was free.
I wouldn't recommend trying any other way of removing this bolt unless you have an air compressor and an impact wrench. All else is a waste of time... believe me, I spent a lot of time working on it before doing like Kev suggested and using my starter. Once I tried that it was off in a matter of minutes.
I have one more thing to add to step #5. I'd recommend putting some anti-sieze on the crank shaft or inside edge of the new pulley. This will keep them from "corroding". (You know how unlike metals don't like each other!)
Regarding step #3 above, I actually put my bar above the control arm. There is a subframe type structure right above the control arm. I put my wrench in that area and put a rag under the wrench so it was touching the subframe. Then I ran around and blipped the starter. On the third blip it broke free. These were very short blips because I didn't disconnect the coil to keep it from starting. It was a "tick" on the first try... a "tick" on the second... and a "wrrrr-wrrrr" on the third and I knew it was free.
I wouldn't recommend trying any other way of removing this bolt unless you have an air compressor and an impact wrench. All else is a waste of time... believe me, I spent a lot of time working on it before doing like Kev suggested and using my starter. Once I tried that it was off in a matter of minutes.
I have one more thing to add to step #5. I'd recommend putting some anti-sieze on the crank shaft or inside edge of the new pulley. This will keep them from "corroding". (You know how unlike metals don't like each other!)
Originally posted by punkdork
Well.. the UDP is said to free up low end HP and torque which is the most noticeable area of acceleration (for me at least) so I don't find this tooo far fetched.
Well.. the UDP is said to free up low end HP and torque which is the most noticeable area of acceleration (for me at least) so I don't find this tooo far fetched.
That is probably what I meant to say! I'm glad someone agrees w/me...I felt a big difference if the power/torque when accelerating especially in first and second gear. Forget how much HP it gives you, with this mod I could actually feel the difference.
Haven't noticed any dimming either with any of my performance mods...but now with my system, that a different story!
Deac
Originally posted by punkdork
No rush Kev... I'm still waiting on Psing.. his bank's been giving him gruff. Thats why I keep all my money in an old sock under my mattress!
No rush Kev... I'm still waiting on Psing.. his bank's been giving him gruff. Thats why I keep all my money in an old sock under my mattress!
yup yup my bank cheated me!! da bastadsss hehe
well i think everything will be ok with that real soon... i just had a bad week $$$ wise... too many problems in too short of a span...
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Kev...
Originally posted by punkdork
Use the search, this has all been covered before.
Use the search, this has all been covered before.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Kev...
Originally posted by Michael98033
You know...if people didn't ask questions like that, you wouldn't "Need non-Maxima Friends" like you do!!!
You know...if people didn't ask questions like that, you wouldn't "Need non-Maxima Friends" like you do!!!
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