fuse blew in subs engine smoking
#1
fuse blew in subs engine smoking
today when i was driving i notived my subs werent on....the fuse blew in the amp i didnt see any wires touching...when i stopped somewherei saw some smoke coming from the front of the car....opened the hood smelled something funny and it stopped smoking....car drives fine and i dont see smoke anymore....maybe was i pulling to much power from the alternator w/subs neon LEDS phone charger driving hard with 5 ppl in the car?? im just worried about my baby.....
#2
You might want to post this in the Audio forum for better responses. But, anyway, to answer your question, how is your amp powered? Do you have a power cable wired straight to your battery, fused? Something may have shorted out, blowing your amp fuse, or may have been blown from over powering. Is the amp mounted in a place where it can breathe freely? You need to explain your problem more precisely so that we can help you answer your question more openly.
#3
there is a power wire going from the amp directly to the battery....inline fuse by the battery.....amp is mounted on the side of the subwoofer box......the inline fuse in the engine was wet inside of the housing for the fuse i saw a little corossion but the inline fuse wasn't blown...only the fuse in the amp...when bass comes on my headlights dim slightly...you cant see it by looking at them but when they shine on a car u can see them....should i get a capacitor? maybe i need thicker power wire? its like 10 gauge or something for a 400 watt amp.
#4
k.... maybe the fuse on that power wire is too big... that's why it didn't blow that fuse instead of blowing the fuse on the amp.... my old system always blow the fuse on the wire... so i went to the audio shop and brought the biggest fuse.... i think it's 12A fuse....i can't remember, it was few years ago..... then it never blow again.... but for the smoke.... it must be a short somewhere... i had smoke coming out from trunk a while back.... coz i turn too fast and the sub slide to the back.... and the "+" slip out and touch everywhere in the trunk.....
10GA wire i think it's enough for 400W..... coz i was running 12Ga wire on my 300W RMS system.... with no problem.... and my friend is running a 10 Ga on a 600W RMS
(2 Type Rs) system without any problem....
Cap will be good for fixing the dimming on the light... i had a 0.5fd one, the small one that's why it still dims a bit...... but definitly better..... go get a 1.0fd cap u'll be satisfy.... (the light will still dim a bit if it's too0000 loud)
10GA wire i think it's enough for 400W..... coz i was running 12Ga wire on my 300W RMS system.... with no problem.... and my friend is running a 10 Ga on a 600W RMS
(2 Type Rs) system without any problem....
Cap will be good for fixing the dimming on the light... i had a 0.5fd one, the small one that's why it still dims a bit...... but definitly better..... go get a 1.0fd cap u'll be satisfy.... (the light will still dim a bit if it's too0000 loud)
#5
you should have atleast 8 gauge wire. smaller can work, but isnt the safest. the wire can heat up pretty good and possibly cause a fire. check out http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp its a guide that will tell you what size wire you should run based on feet and wattage.
#7
Not sure what the smoke is from the engine bay, possible a short near your inline fuse running to the battery. It is advised to get a bigger gauge power wire, and a farad cap. How is your system setup? Is anything "RIGed", your connections could be faulty and not receiving good current, and that could be a cause in blowing fuses. Another note is the fuse amperage might be too small to handle the power output, try a bigger fuse.
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ballerchris510
3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994)
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09-10-2015 09:35 PM