6-speed cars that run the 1/4 mile
#1
6-speed cars that run the 1/4 mile
Those that have 6-speed cars that run the 1/4 mile, can the Maxima take the abuse? Just curious because the wheel hop can be pretty voilent at times. It doesn't happen everytime but it's there. I guess I need to get some Nittos. I'd like to get some 13's with it before I chill.
Thanks ahead of time,
Gears
Thanks ahead of time,
Gears
#3
get yourself the energy suspension motor mounts and shifter bushings. The MM will resolve 98% of the wheel hop. Cattman has them. They are pretty inexpensive. The place racing mounts are better, but a ton more expensive. Front and rear mounts are all you need. Get a STS from HP or TWM to help row the gears too. All of these are pretty inexpensive.
#5
Originally Posted by IWNTMORHP!!
get yourself the energy suspension motor mounts and shifter bushings. The MM will resolve 98% of the wheel hop. Cattman has them. They are pretty inexpensive. The place racing mounts are better, but a ton more expensive. Front and rear mounts are all you need. Get a STS from HP or TWM to help row the gears too. All of these are pretty inexpensive.
I am still wondering about durability of this car at the track.
Thanks again,
Gears
#6
Yes I have them. The only difference I notice is at start up...the car kinda rumbles. The install is actually really easy if you have a lift available. I did them with my tech at the dealership off the clock. You have to pull the crossmember and support the motor and tranny to be safe. Once the crossmember is off you take brackets off and press the mounts...be careful, they are liquid filled and squirt all over. You will want to remove the metal sleeve too if you can. If you don't, the new mounts will be a b.i.t.c.h. to get in. I used dielectric grease to lube them and pressed in by hand. It was a lot easier to do it like that instead of using the press. Once the mounts are out, I cleaned up the bracket and wire wheeled it to get all the rough edges off. Then primed and painted them to keep the rust down. Then its back together. If you have good tools and plan it out before you get into it, your looking at about a 30-60 min job if you have a lift.
#8
Originally Posted by Gears & Crosses
Do you have these motor mounts? If so, how bad is the engine vibration?
I am still wondering about durability of this car at the track.
Thanks again,
Gears
I am still wondering about durability of this car at the track.
Thanks again,
Gears
#10
it makes a severe ticking noise everytime u let off the throttle....my stock motor mount was completely shot with almost no more fluid left inside....i bet the ticking noise was the bolt that goes thru the motor mount wobbling around the metal sleeves that holds the fluid in place...but since theres no fluid, it just wobbles around
also another sign of blown motor mounts....abnormally more wheel hop...we're talking about so much wheel hop, that the tires won't catch at all....thats abnormal...if thats the case...might want to get your motor mounts checked out by visually inspecting it.
also another sign of blown motor mounts....abnormally more wheel hop...we're talking about so much wheel hop, that the tires won't catch at all....thats abnormal...if thats the case...might want to get your motor mounts checked out by visually inspecting it.
#12
if you take it to a shop...it should cost approximately $100....with all the correct tools and a lift...the cross member comes off in like 10 minutes....then pressing out the mounts will only take a few minutes....then pressing it in is almost nothing if u lube it up...then reassembling everything is another 15 minutes or so....most shops charge $80/hr....so if a shop charges you $100 out the door...it sounds about right
the motor mount inserts are like $80 shipped from cattman.....so all together should be less than $200
the motor mount inserts are like $80 shipped from cattman.....so all together should be less than $200
#14
Originally Posted by Maxima-Ness
anyone know when the Place Racing website will be back up?
#15
I got the PR mounts in my car, right off idle around 1200 RPM there are some vibrations felt in the wheel and body. Throttle responde is much better and even shifting through gears is more direct. Wheel hop is almost completly gone.
#16
Originally Posted by crispykid717
How do you tell if one of your motor mounts is bad?
if it is truely broke, like mine was, you can jack up the car and crawl under it and look at the back of the motor toward the firewall on the bottom, where it attaches to the cross member...inspect the bushing. it should be visable if it is broken. you will see torn rubber and maybe fluid depending on how long its been broken.
as far as drivability, keep the car in first gear and get on and off the throttle a couple times...keep in mind you don't want to do this a lot, because it isn't the greatest for the tranny, but once or twice won't be an issue. if you hear it bang, like metal on metal, you mount is broken. it is really pronounced if you have a STB. the other way to tell if you have a STB is put the car in reverse, and accelerate hard in reverse. that will cause the bang also, but more than likely on the STB. if the mount is still good it may hit too depending on the bar, but it is a good indicator that you should do some more checking, cause it's probably shot.
as for the vibration...when i heal-toe downshift, and the motor deceleartes through 4k rpm, i notice the vibration there too, but it is only felt in the steering wheel.
i hope this helps. i think i have some pics of the process if you want to send me an email, i can forward them to you.
#17
Originally Posted by BlackBIRDVQ
I got the PR mounts in my car, right off idle around 1200 RPM there are some vibrations felt in the wheel and body. Throttle responde is much better and even shifting through gears is more direct. Wheel hop is almost completly gone.
your a tech right? what is your take on the install? any other recommendations?
#18
Originally Posted by hct67
I have the ES Motor Mounts, The HP STS along with the ES shifter bushings, Matts LTB and I love it. Wheel hop almost gone but the only way to really get rid of it at the track is with slicks!
Btw, this is a good discussion on MMs... I need to get those this spring....
#19
Install of my PR mounts took me no more than 15 min on a lift. ES mounts shouldn't take no more than 30 min if the person doing them has a press to press out the old mounts. I wouldn't pay a mechanic no more than 1 hour worth of his labor time to install eighter mounts.
#21
Originally Posted by TitanMax03
Yea, i feeel like I kinda feel a rumble after letting off the throttle in my 03 6spd. At idle i feel like it shakes sometimes and rpms go like under 500 but doenst stall. Where can i get this fixed and whats the deal with it...
That is just what happens when the motor drops below 500-600 rpm... it gets very rough. Best bet is to work on engaging the clutch and manipulating the throttle a bit more to keep the rpm's up during the engagement. you feel a bit of a rumble letting off...that is a new one for me...if you had said on normal engagement of the clutch, I would say you should look at resurfacing or replacing the flywheel, but that is apparently not the issue, so I have no idea. ask blackbirdvq...he's is always a great resource for me...i usually find the answer to my questions in his previous posts. best of luck.
#25
Originally Posted by bubba2k2se
And what kinda times should i expect out of my 02 se with light mods(intake exhaust)
I just got a set of Nitto drag radials but havent gotten to race them yet due to the crappy weather.
The ES motor mounts make a huge difference with wheel hop. It also seems like the first to second shift is stronger with less wheel spin. I actulay broke my stock mount at the track the first time out. The car did have about 80k on it at the time. Breaking a motor mount isn't that big of a deal. You just hear a clunk when getting on and off the throttle.
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