Transmission Problems
Transmission Problems
Ok, my tranny just started slipping from first to second when it's cold. I've found a lot of stuff on here about the slippage on the 2000 model including TSB stuff. I don't want to be redundant, but I can't find anything on whether my VIN qualifies.
Also, my car has 76k on it, is it still going to qualify? Are the limits on how many miles before they stop fixing it?
Any help would be appreciated.
Also, my car has 76k on it, is it still going to qualify? Are the limits on how many miles before they stop fixing it?
Any help would be appreciated.
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
I just replaced my VB with a stage II from maxtuning.
Originally Posted by bamasae
Is something like that or the VB going to help mine at this point though? I'm still stock and I think I'm about to have a problem.
Originally Posted by Lontar1
Have you done the Full Tranny flush, if not it is time to do it..... warranty, only if you have an extended one...
Actually, I was having no problems at all and decided at 76k I would do a tranny flush with a T-Tech (full flush and fill). It wasn't until about 2 weeks AFTER the flush that I started having problems with the shifting.
Anyone got anything they can suggest?
I cant tell weither its my tranny or something or my maf, or coils. I just had the vb mod done and had the silinoids changed. The car shifts fine, Its just when im going slow the car doent seem like it wants to go. If i floor it, then it takes off and goes but before that it wont. What the hell is going on man..i really dont understand... to better explain myself the pedal is almost half way down. and it will not pickup fast enough but when i floor it it will go and it will shift fine. Whats the beef??? any idea???
bamasae, bulletin covered only for powertrain, 5yrs or 60000 miles.
VB mod may not save you if its occuring when cold, your friction surfaces may already be cooked from lack of transmission fluid changes or heavy right foot action. The fluid you used may be too thin to build line pressure. You should switch to Nissan D-Matic or a Synthetic ATF, possibly with a friction modifier like Lucas Oil Additive.
Lontar1, rarely does an extended warranty cover a transmission, at least not a Nissan Security Plus one, after powertrain of 5/60K, you are on your own, unless you had a trans replaced just before that period, where Nissan has a parts warranty for 12/12K.
Nocturnal, sounds like a normal symptom to me. at 20mph you could possibly be in 3rd gear in an auto, and by the time it reacts, you may be at 35-44mph which is above peak tq rpm and the transmission will stay downshifted in 2nd and at that speed its low in the range, and won't go into 1st for that instant power on tap if you do the half throttle way. Hammer it at 20mph, and she'll kick into 1st gear. Normal symptom.
VB mod may not save you if its occuring when cold, your friction surfaces may already be cooked from lack of transmission fluid changes or heavy right foot action. The fluid you used may be too thin to build line pressure. You should switch to Nissan D-Matic or a Synthetic ATF, possibly with a friction modifier like Lucas Oil Additive.
Lontar1, rarely does an extended warranty cover a transmission, at least not a Nissan Security Plus one, after powertrain of 5/60K, you are on your own, unless you had a trans replaced just before that period, where Nissan has a parts warranty for 12/12K.
Nocturnal, sounds like a normal symptom to me. at 20mph you could possibly be in 3rd gear in an auto, and by the time it reacts, you may be at 35-44mph which is above peak tq rpm and the transmission will stay downshifted in 2nd and at that speed its low in the range, and won't go into 1st for that instant power on tap if you do the half throttle way. Hammer it at 20mph, and she'll kick into 1st gear. Normal symptom.
Originally Posted by nismo_star
bamasae, bulletin covered only for powertrain, 5yrs or 60000 miles.
VB mod may not save you if its occuring when cold, your friction surfaces may already be cooked from lack of transmission fluid changes or heavy right foot action. The fluid you used may be too thin to build line pressure. You should switch to Nissan D-Matic or a Synthetic ATF, possibly with a friction modifier like Lucas Oil Additive.
VB mod may not save you if its occuring when cold, your friction surfaces may already be cooked from lack of transmission fluid changes or heavy right foot action. The fluid you used may be too thin to build line pressure. You should switch to Nissan D-Matic or a Synthetic ATF, possibly with a friction modifier like Lucas Oil Additive.
Thanks again,
Mike
Originally Posted by nismo_star
bamasae, bulletin covered only for powertrain, 5yrs or 60000 miles.
VB mod may not save you if its occuring when cold, your friction surfaces may already be cooked from lack of transmission fluid changes or heavy right foot action. The fluid you used may be too thin to build line pressure. You should switch to Nissan D-Matic or a Synthetic ATF, possibly with a friction modifier like Lucas Oil Additive.
Lontar1, rarely does an extended warranty cover a transmission, at least not a Nissan Security Plus one, after powertrain of 5/60K, you are on your own, unless you had a trans replaced just before that period, where Nissan has a parts warranty for 12/12K.
Nocturnal, sounds like a normal symptom to me. at 20mph you could possibly be in 3rd gear in an auto, and by the time it reacts, you may be at 35-44mph which is above peak tq rpm and the transmission will stay downshifted in 2nd and at that speed its low in the range, and won't go into 1st for that instant power on tap if you do the half throttle way. Hammer it at 20mph, and she'll kick into 1st gear. Normal symptom.
VB mod may not save you if its occuring when cold, your friction surfaces may already be cooked from lack of transmission fluid changes or heavy right foot action. The fluid you used may be too thin to build line pressure. You should switch to Nissan D-Matic or a Synthetic ATF, possibly with a friction modifier like Lucas Oil Additive.
Lontar1, rarely does an extended warranty cover a transmission, at least not a Nissan Security Plus one, after powertrain of 5/60K, you are on your own, unless you had a trans replaced just before that period, where Nissan has a parts warranty for 12/12K.
Nocturnal, sounds like a normal symptom to me. at 20mph you could possibly be in 3rd gear in an auto, and by the time it reacts, you may be at 35-44mph which is above peak tq rpm and the transmission will stay downshifted in 2nd and at that speed its low in the range, and won't go into 1st for that instant power on tap if you do the half throttle way. Hammer it at 20mph, and she'll kick into 1st gear. Normal symptom.
?????your saying my tranny is fine??????
Originally Posted by nismo_star
You should switch to Nissan D-Matic or a Synthetic ATF, possibly with a friction modifier like Lucas Oil Additive.
Well, I switched to the Nissan fluid and added some of the lucas stuff. It seemed to help a little, but not a cure.
When I take off nice and easy, it shifts out fine, even when cold. If I push it even a little, it slips between first and second. If I push it hard, it will stay at red line for about a second and a half before it actually shifts and then a noticable flutter between second and third. Even when it's warm, I'm seeing some symptoms.
I'm out of warranty, so my questions are: 1) Am I toast, so go ahead and get a transmisson for this thing? 2) Should I have mine rebuilt, buy a good used working one that hasn't been rebuilt, buy a newly rebuilt one, or buy a new one?
Any help or advice will be much appreciated.
When I take off nice and easy, it shifts out fine, even when cold. If I push it even a little, it slips between first and second. If I push it hard, it will stay at red line for about a second and a half before it actually shifts and then a noticable flutter between second and third. Even when it's warm, I'm seeing some symptoms.
I'm out of warranty, so my questions are: 1) Am I toast, so go ahead and get a transmisson for this thing? 2) Should I have mine rebuilt, buy a good used working one that hasn't been rebuilt, buy a newly rebuilt one, or buy a new one?
Any help or advice will be much appreciated.
:attention Ok, maybe it should be obvious what my plan of action should be but...
I have a 2k with 42k. It exhibits the delayed shift first to second especially when cold when I get on it. (which is rare.) I bought it from an older couple and I baby it. I had planned to do what the tsb said, do the solonoids and the tcm. Also flush and fill with original fluid.
Is this the correct course of action?
Still has stock fluid in it.
afraid to change to aftermarket hearing horror stories about "thinner fluid" causing problems.
The shifting is not at all bad otherwise.
Preventive maintenance if possible.
Please advise you experienced guru's!
Thanks
I have a 2k with 42k. It exhibits the delayed shift first to second especially when cold when I get on it. (which is rare.) I bought it from an older couple and I baby it. I had planned to do what the tsb said, do the solonoids and the tcm. Also flush and fill with original fluid.
Is this the correct course of action?
Still has stock fluid in it.
afraid to change to aftermarket hearing horror stories about "thinner fluid" causing problems.
The shifting is not at all bad otherwise.
Preventive maintenance if possible.
Please advise you experienced guru's!
Thanks
Originally Posted by pull10k
Bump, need a look please at above
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Posts: n/a
If you do a tranny flush sometimes it does more bad than good, reason being if the tranny is old and almost shot it needs that buildup of gook in there. Your flush washed away all the gook like it should have but YOUR tranny needed the gook. IMO there is no treatment that will help it now just baby her and get as much out of it as you can.
Originally Posted by maximized2
If you do a tranny flush sometimes it does more bad than good, reason being if the tranny is old and almost shot it needs that buildup of gook in there. Your flush washed away all the gook like it should have but YOUR tranny needed the gook. IMO there is no treatment that will help it now just baby her and get as much out of it as you can.
Why would there be a tsb to solve the problem if the tranny is bad no matter what?
I firmily believe the flush is what killed my tranny. It was perfectly fine before the flush and then it started craping out afterward. Of course it had 76k on it when I did it. I wouldn't recommend a flush with that many miles, I think it tears up some things with the pressure when a transmission is five years old and has this many miles.
Originally Posted by bamasae
Thanks Nismo, that's exactly this kind of info I needed. I'm gonna do the the switch to the Nissan D-matic right away and pick up the Lucas stuff as well. I'll give that a shot and keep my fingers crossed, I don't have the funds to drop on a tranny.
Thanks again,
Mike
Thanks again,
Mike
Try Chevron ATF + Lubegard Black = NissanMaticD fluid.
Check out this website
http://www.lubegard.com/automotive/trans_atf_hfm.html
how DexronIII is changed to Friction Modified NissanMaticD fluid. I have the above combination and it works like a gem.....
Needless to say, if you really intend to only use NissanMatic fluids use the NissanMaticJ (this is friction modified) which is used in Infiniti I30's, boy the shift changes with J fluid is great, I happened to sit in my friend's car and it was a marvel, I could hardly notice any shifts. Good luck....
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