Ok, need a diagnosis:

Spent the afternoon Swapping my OEM Front Rotors with Frozen Rotors and Hawk HPS pads....all went FAIRLY smooth.

Just drove it around the block, and YIKES!!!

BAD Grainding/Scraping sounds from the brakes. I didn't even get it over 10 mph in the neighborhood....it was nasty!!
Scraping is MORE prevalent when NOT pressing the brake pedal and engaging the brakes. It is literally scraping on every revolution of the rotor past the pads.
It SEEMS to brake normally, however -- in terms of pedal feel, etc.

It was the left front that was worse, but I am suspecting the pads not being seated properly.

1. I used anti-squeal lube on the backs of the pads.
2. Everything was re-torqued properly.
3. Re-assembly was smooth enough.
4. I did file-off a small portion of the leading edges of the pads before install....probably not enough however. (could THIS be the problem?)

However -- the pads (4) were NOT all the same. Two of the Four pads were missing the "metal clips" present on the stockers.

I was told the the METAL CLIPS that protrude from the corners of the pads are the WEAR SENSORS, and were not needed on all four pads, as is common with others (?).
Only TWO of the hawk pads had these clips -- OEM had em on ALL FOUR.

Well, they looked like retention clips to me, and the side without is scraping louder than the other, so WTF?!

Anybody have any advice on the SQUEAL SENSORS/ RETAINER CLIPS on the HAWK pads.....or lack thereof??

The amount of squealing/grinding doesn't sound normal AT ALL.

I'm getting worried. Oh PLEASE don't tell me I have to throw-in the towel and call a tow truck!!!

gr

 

did you insert that little clip that held the oems in place, its part of the brackets that the pads go into. It sticks out of the bracket then goes into the loop on the pads, if you did. What i suggest, do this at your own aggression, is that you take the car out go like 30 or forty then brake aggresively. Dont slam on the brakes but just breake fast sort of, if that doesnt work disassemble the brakes and check the pads, you could have a piece of rock, or even a piece of crappy material in the pads causeing this.

 

That sounds about right. My dad was saying the other day that sometimes putting new pads on can cause touching, called rubbing actually. Its just like it sounds, the pads are too thick and need to be broken in a bit before they wil actually seat right. Good luck man, Rob sounds as though hes got the right idea.

 

That's what I'm saying -- the pads did NOT ALL Have that "Loop" to fit the pin into, that to me -- seems like the retention clip.

The guy I bought them from ASSURED me that this LOOP wasn't necessary on all Four pads, and that it was merely the "wear sensor". The parts numbers were matched-up twice, so I don't know if it's the wrong pads or my crappy install??

I need to hear from someone that's installed HAwk Pads recently to know if this is b.s., or what.

Thanks for your input.

gr

 

I thought this at first as well -- but it got worse....MUCH worse!!

gr

 

how many times do we have to go over this??

it is the dust shield just inboard of the rotor scraping against the back of the rotor. Common problem, alot of people accidentally bend it a little when doing brake work. Just bend it back away from the backside of the rotor, and your problem will be solved...

 

Awww....CRAP!

I totally forgot about that!

Geez - I was worried about so MANY other things, that I didn't even remember that one.

I HOPE this is the ONLY problem, but I AM still curious to hear about that mystery retention clip issue, just to quell my fears.

Thanks Irish -- sorry about the brain lapse.....be gentle on me, eh?


gr

 

Oh yeah dude just disassemble everything and check it ten times and the the loop things are for front only its like a retention clip that hold the pads even on the caliper piston( i think). Hey if its not the dust shield try the brake in method just take it for like a 20 mile cruiz and do some moderate to harsh brakeing to " BRAKE IT IN" if that doesnt work take pictures of the area and post them so we get a better idea.


YOO quick question when you installed the new pads did you unscrew the top of the masterbrake cylinder?

 

YOO quick question when you installed the new pads did you unscrew the top of the masterbrake cylinder?[/QUOTE]

Yup.
Even rented a PROPER piston compression tool.....I did my homework!

gr

 

ha all good.....it took me like an hour to figure it out when I had the same problem...duh.

the retention clips won't make any noise, don't worry about them.

 

Shizzen man i try to drive it for like a couple miles atlest ten, if its not the dust shield thing like irish said. other then that im stuck, hey on the rears, on the back of the pads there should have been slots that line up with the caliper brackets, are you sure you lined those up, maybe one of the pads isnt sitting flat <-- just a guess, otherwise take it for a nice drive and then repost after it.

 

Same thing sort of happened to me after my install with Hawk Pads. For a day or two I had a slight grinding noise. It sounded like someone was letting a knife edge skim on an old-fashioned stone grinding wheel. Just be sure to check all the metal spring clamps. If I remember correctly only four of them had clips, I think the outers. Check all those and then do the 30MPH stop thing. If that doesn't work then maybe you didn't compress the pistons on the calipers enough? Be careful not to rip the outer boots of the piston. But anyway, The grinding noise eventually stopped, so hopefully you'll have the same luck.

 

That would make sense - the two with clips being the outers.
I had to bend one of the small pins in order to clear the wheel, as I used the two clips on ONE side, thinking the other side had none.
Doubtful this makes any difference, as I'm fairly certain both the rotors AND the pads virtually FLOAT in the carriers.
It amazes me that NOBODY mentioned this little tidbit before in all of the posts I've read....weird.

I did notice on the OEM pads that the leading edges were ground-off at a 45 degree angle quite substantially to reduce this initial GRINDING effect as the brakes are beaded-in. I think NOT doing this would account for the initial grinding, and eventually subsiding as the pads wear-in.
It Looked to me as if it were done with a stationary grinding wheel....a good 3-4mm of material was tapered-into the center of the pad. Interesting.

I'll check the dust plates tomorrow, and re-post.

Thanks guys.

gr

BTW -- I took great care when compressing the pistons, and I'm 100% certain I did it all the way to stop - so no issues there!

 

It WAS the dust shield!
DOH!

Problem solved - thanks Irish.
Now for those REAR brakes....

gr

 

I'm glad you figured out that your problem was the dust shield. When I installed my new RTP rotors and Axxis pads, I had the most awful grinding noises coming from my brakes every time I pushed the pedal, and there was a light rubbing noise even when I didn't have the brakes on. It sounds like I had the same problem as you, but mine went away VERY quickly after I drove the car for a few miles. Now the grinding sound is entirely gone, and I didn't mess with the dust shield at all.

The only sound I have now is a squealing sound when I apply medium pressure to the brake pedal to slow from moderate speed. If I brake harder or lighter, the squeal goes away. I did NOT use anti-squeal lube of any kind on the back of my pads, so maybe that's the cause of my troubles. I wasn't aware that there was a lube for the backs of your brake pads. I heard another Org member jokingly refer to "gorilla snot" for the backs of your brake pads. Is this the stuff you guys are talking about? Is it necessary for brake performance, or does it just stop squealing? As annoying as the squeal is, I can live with it if it's not dangerous.

 

There is specific goo for this called Anti-Squeak grease.
I picked-up a 10oz. bottle @ Pep-Boys for $4. Don't remember the manuf., but it has a bright orange color that i could have done without, but no issues.
It seems to work quite well.
Not sure what's in it, but seems to have some kind of hi-temp elastimer that is kind of rubery and gives the pads something to bead on rather than the metal on metal of the calipers/pad backs that causes the squeaking.

Now that the dust shield problem is fixed, the brakes sound fine.

I recommend filing-off the leading edges of the pads before installation as well, to reduce the break-in rubbing/grinding sound that happens when pads are new.

gr

 

OK im thinking of doing the hawk pads for my 2k max, will this be a very complex job and can i do it myself relatively easily with just alot of time or should i have somebody do it for me. My dad said he would do it with me and hes pretty car savvy, like they were his life back when he had the time to spend on them. He just doesnt have much experience with my maxima and stuff. What do you think??

 

Depends how mechanically inclined you and your Dad are....

I think the only thing that kept me from doing this type of work at 18, was that I didn't have the tools, or the experience at the time.

This isn't a complex job, but you do need to pay attention to details and do it right (unlike SOME people who bend their dust guards into their new rotors)

Must haves:
1. Torque Wrench
2. Jack + Jack Stands
3. 14 & 18mm Deep sockets
4. Brake Cleaner / Anti-Squeak Lube / Gojo for cleanup later
5. PROPER brake piston compressor.

I'm still GENTLY bedding-in the pads and rotors, but I can tell the pedal feel is already improved....almost a little less firm with more feedback.
I'm looking forward to really jumping-on these things once they're set properly!

If your Dad knows what he's doing, and you guys have the right tools, you should be able to handle the job yourselves!

If not -- AAA is always standing-by with a flatbed towtruck to haul your ***-up away...!

gr

 

Ok… not to freeload off your post but I have an entirely different problem, I think. I recently installed slotted RTP front rotors and front PBR pads and I’m experiencing a grinding noise. I’ve been driving on this new setup for 400-500 miles. I broke in the pads as instructed.

What happens is when I’m coming to a stop I occasionally experience a very rapid vibration sensation/sound (this doesn’t bother me that bad) that progressively gets deeper in tone as I slow down more. This is followed by a grinding noise that sounds like I’m stopping my car with sand paper. This grinding noise is what really bothers me and it seems to happen only when I’m doing 10mph or less with the breaks applied. Those last couple of feet before the actual stop is when it is most apparent.

I’ve always done my own brake jobs but only with OEM components and I’ve never experienced this problem. Any insight on what is going on here would be much appreciated.

 

If you can do it try bleeding the brakes and check the pads if theirs any material thats crappy in them. What i mean is look at the pad it self you could have a piece of metal in it causeing this. If it is a piece of metal try busting it out somehow, also did you insert that clip into the loop on the front pads?

 

It almost sounds like something is causing your antilock braking system to activate.

 

Check your rear brake pads, may sound like front but could be your rears if you didnt change them, you could be funking some stuff up back their.

 

I haven't bled the brakes.... fluid looks good and there's no indication that I introduced any air into the lines. The crappy material in the pad I hadn't really thought of. I occasionally look at the outside rotor surface and sometimes it looks like something hard got stuck between the pad and rotor and started scraping the rotor. I'll have to talk a look at that.

What is this clip into the loop talk all about? My pads had wear indicators... thats it, aside from the brake shims that I took off the OEM pads.

Thanks for the reply.

 

No... my ABS engaged today because of some fool on the freeway. The ABS kicking in feels a lot different from this vibration. Not nearly as strong or as loud.

 

I was thinking this as well because last time I checked the rear pads were low. I thought I could test this by pulling on my e-brake while moving. This did not replicate my symtoms. If my rear pads were bad, would me pulling up on the e-brake prove this? What I'm saying is I can't remember if the e-brake engages both rear brakes.

Thanks

 

No it wont because my rears are sqeeling like crazy style and when i pull on the ebrake the squeeling goes away( ****ty pads from auto zone ) . If you have oem pads in the rear still it could be them, onyl rear way tro check them is to take them off, you could have the metal bracket on the pad grinding into the rotor which mean new pads. Im gonna replace my pads today.

 

Don't quote me on this but I think the e-brake on rear disc setups are actually shoes behind the rear rotors? It does not engage the rear calipers. Or am I wrong?