what have guys seen in performance when they use the light weight flywheels. i'm gonig to have my tranny rebuilt, so i figured if it's out of the way i might think about a flywheel. if you could let me know that would be great. thanks

 

hard to say if anyone has ever went to get one specifically for a before and after dyno

you could check the dyno forum and do comparisons between non-lightened and lightened maximas

 

I remember seeing a dyno of a sentra with Fidanza flywheel and gained 10-15 whp.

 

Flywheels do not add horse power.
They do make more of the horse power that you already have go to the wheels.
I have not put on a lightened flywheel on the Maxima (3.5) but, I do have one on my SE-R. Never did a before and after dyno so I have no real numbers. I can tell you though that the difference is greater than headers. The engine revs *much* quicker.

 

That's right too, but isn't is just a matter of phrasing here? Bottom line is your dyno numbers will be higher... regardless whether hp is "added", "created", or "freed up".

 

"gained" hp

 

 

Oh geez, not this again. If that were true, then a y-pipe, ecu, cams, and even high compression pistons simply release power that was hiding in the engine.
Put the car on a dyno. With a stock slywheel you'll have X hp. With a lightweight flywheel, you'll have X+Y hp. So you ADDED horsepower. Simple math really.

 

Anyone have a link to the site that sells the Tilton Clutch/Flywheel package for the 3.5? I've , but came up on the short end.

Thanks

 

Here ya go:
http://performancenissanparts.com/ca...oducts_id=1528

Or even better is this Exedy kit:
http://www.hopupracing.com/exhysiplclni.html

Pretty sure neither of these is a direct drop in, but i do think they will work.

 

More options here too:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=321756

 

WTF? Those are just stock-type replacements. Totally different than the above mentioned setups.

BTW, i highly recommend going with a lighter flywheel. It makes a big difference in driving feel, the cars goes through the gears a bit quicker, and most importantly the revs drop quicker when shifting or revving on ricers!

 

Totally incorrect. The mods that you mention above actually increase the HP of the engine at the crank.

 

You are right *at the wheels*. The engine is still making the same hosepower it was making before the flywheel was installed.

 

Yeah, maybe they're different from the set-ups you posted about, but I hardly think that SPEC clutches Stages 1-5 or a SPEC or Fidanza flywheel are stock-type replacements. Besides, it was for Deckdout's benefit, just so that he could see what other options were out there.

 

Well not really. How should we discuss this? Maybe we should discuss mods that increase the whp shown on a dyno. I think this is what we are all after. Who really cares what the hp at the crank is if it's the same at the wheels? Any mod that can give more hp on the dyno sheet is a mod to me. Whether it's a Y pipe or a flywheel.

Even the mods you state "actually increase.." can be argued to NOT increase hp either. These na mods only increase the engine's operating efficency. ie.. help the engine breath easier. The flywheel (and udp, PS pump delete etc..) all fall under the same general catagory. It would also depend on how you measure the hp at the crank. With or w/o accessories? It gets complicated.

By your defination, the only mods that would actually increase hp, would be Forced induction or nitrious oxide

 

Dude thanks man. I didn't realize there was this many options available for the 3.5.....maybe I should start paying more attention. I had the SPEC Stage III Clutch in my Legend, and I loved it. I'm probably going to end up going with that and the flywheel.

Does anyone have a comparison of which one is better (SPEC, Tilton, Exede, Clutchmaster), or is it mainly just personal preference?

 

Skip the Unorthodox flywheel, its "lighter" on paper than the Fidanza but you only get like the friction material and have to GUT out your stock flywheel to use it. I personally think Fidanza flywheel makes a huge difference on a 3.0L in terms of engine reving up. It makes quite a bit of power on the 3.5Ls- I seen up to 20WHP in some parts of the powerband with a Altima and JWT flywheel. 3.0L should see similar results but I would speculate around 15-17WHP at the most. I gained 14WHP on my SE-R from a JUN Ultra Light Flywheel vs stock. I have a Fidanza on my Maxima, works realllly good. No drawbacks what so ever.

 

just bought fidanza flywheel..

what clutch should i match this up with??? n/a engine full exhaust mods

should i get the lightened version of the clutch kit??

 

The Fidanza flywheel looks to be 1050 steel composite for the 3.5. Judging by the description, it seems that it should be very durable. How would this pair up with the SPEC Stage III clutch? Would you recommend me sticking with the same manufacture in this package? (SPEC clutch and flywheel) I'm open to mismatching if the advantage is there. Thanks for the help.

 

Anyone with a 3.0L that is NA will be just fine with a EXEDY Stage 1 clutch. Trust me I have it on my car and I can bark 3rd gear. I've had mine for bout 12K miles now without a problem.

Deckedout2- personally I would stay away from SPEC products. I have used their clutch on my G20 and it slipped like crazy from the 1st time I drove it. It was a Spec Stage 2 or 3, I dont remember correctly. I was really pissed cause I just installed it and took it for a ride, boost kicked in and I was slipping like crazy. The next nite I got a hold of a ACT Xtreme clutch and that sucker never slipped even at 524WHP. I don't recomend ACT clutches since I've had bad problems with 2 of the ones I had in my Maxima- the pressure plate diaphram wears out prematurelly causing engagement point problems. I highly recomend ClutchNet, SouthBend Clutches. Fidanza makes the best flywheels in the inrusrty.

 

i was told that a lightweigh flywheel, while lowering your 1/4m times it would actually increase your 0-100 (light to light racing) is this true...

this might discourage me from getting one..

 

1/4 mile racing IS pretty much 0-100!

 

I had my car dyno tuned before installing a JWT clutch, flywheel and an UDP. Give me a couple of weeks, and I’ll put her on the same dyno so we can see if any gains exist. The only problem is that I live in Phoenix, and it’s already over 100. I’ll be able to post a before tuning, after tuning, and clutch, flywheel and UDP.

 

1/4 mile racing is 0-100MPH, but some of us reach 100 way before the 1/4 mile ends :P

I've had a light weight flywheel on my SE-R back in 99, and I have it currently on my 01 Maxima. It does increase power at the wheels, it makes the car more rev happy, overall its a great modification that really has very little draw back.

 

Hey buddy,
your among a few guys that have this setup beside myself.

Did you run into any problems with the starter and flywheel grinding? I'm not the only guy that had these problems... If so, what did you do fix the problem, and do you hear the metal pinging upon startup? I had my starter modified and repositioned, helped stop grinding, yet the pinging upon startup is there.

These guy swith 5th gens apparantly don't have these problems, as they aren't stuck with JWT's product. I could go and on here about how horrible they are, but i'll just leave that out since i don't want to make this thread political.

Just a heads up to us 5.5 geners:

Brian catts informed me that we do have another option with clutch master for flywheel and clutch if anyone is inclined.

 

so a flywheel and clutch kit for 350 z will fit 3.5 max ???

 

Hi

I don’t have a problem with a pinging sound, but I do have a fast, high pitched grind, it almost sounds like an external starter for a F1 car. I hope there won’t be any ill effects do to the grind because I like the performance aspect of it. They told me that it was because of the dual mass flywheel so I thought it was due to the weight differences in the flywheels themselves. Were you told there would be problems in the future?

Thanks

 

Thanks for the advice, I believe it's time to go shopping.

Big help once again....

 

When did you get it installed?

Dood, keep an eye on the crank sensor, if you haven't already, you probablly will notice metallic dust collecting there (yea if your hearing grinding like i was your hearing the starter wearing down, this is bad) Since the starter was drilled and repositioned i no longer have grinding, but an odd ping, which is due to slop between the mesh of the starter and flywheel. Any mechanic claiming this to be normal (or JWT claiming it to be the harmonics) is full of it.
Yet, i've come to live with it, and what's done is done. I would never give JWT another dollar again after this, and i don't care what sort of crazy products they develope for other cars, they care a sh~t not about maximas.
If you call up and wait on hold with Ben for awhile, he will give you the jive about the harmonics... he's a liar and a moron. Jim Wolf himself would not admit fault with the part, and i had my installer (jeff from maximum tuning, well known and respected mechanic) deal with Jim directly after much hassle... In the end of the day he was demanding proof with pictures, and didn't want to step up and make matters right. Totally complacent,
not a service oriented guy when it comes to us...

I won't name names here, but i know personally a few guys with the same problem, it just so happens they all have the JWT products. They can chime in here if they wish.

Worst part about it is he never investigated the issues, and still sells the product knowing (or not caring) that it's wrong or defective.


Sorry but i just felt like opening that topic up... I said I wouldn't but someone had to.


Let me know if you start having problems.

 

I went with the JWT flywheel when I had my Max. My problems started the next day. It didnt mesh with the starter properly and caused shavings to get on my crank sensor, once enough shavings were there the sensor didnt work properly and I couldnt rev past 5000rpm, I had to clean off my crank sensor every other day in order for my car to run properly. Also I hated the awful noise my car made on start up, sounded like it was grinding horribly... The only thing I liked about it was how easily the car revved with it, but that was not enough to keep it in there.

 

1/4 mile racing IS pretty much 0-100!


sorry, i work in Kph, so 0-60. i heard it would lower your 0-60(mph) light to light racing, is this true?

 

I think the only problem with a lightened flywheel is that it makes launches harder to pull off well. Its less forgiving with keeping the rpms up to prevent bogging and keeping the rpms down to prevent wheelspin.

 

In theory yes, in reality no. It depends on how light of an unit you get The Fidanza is significantly lighter than stock. But it still has plenty of mass to ease take offs and still give good shifts.

I don't know about you but I'd love to have wheelspin problems

 

Thats good to know. I have been debating about getting a flywheel (clutch, HLSD, and 4.133 final) when my clutch goes. I am mainly a drag strip person and was worried about it affecting the launches.

I have wheelspin problems (from a stop anyway) and they arent fun when you dont intend to do it Of course if you want to, its a blast! I have actually lit a tire up when I hit second at the drag strip so bad that there was smoke rolling off the tire. Normally in a straight line the non HLSDs seem to use both tires no problem, but that time it just went to one.

 

Well if you are drag strip only type, a stock flywheel might help more. As you can already have the engine rev'd up and the heavier stocker should hold the revs easier inbetween shifts. Don't know if that will outweigh the lighter flywheel being able to rev faster once in gear.