heehee. Dude, if you want you can throw me some buxx and we can use my 8000MCD Leds...they will be wayyyy brighter than the Radio Shack LEDs.

 

lol, i bought the radio chack LED's at first...i think they were either 1500 or 2500 mcd. then i heard about ebay and WAM. they are so muc better and when it comes down to it...so much cheaper. i think i ended up getting about 100 total for like 20 or 25. radioshack was about 1.50 or 1.99 each.

 

thats fine with me, I will also be supplying "beverages" for our lil experiment....btw can this be done for the passenger side as well as the back doors?

 

I can do whatever you want, including the shifter lights mod.

No need to supply beverages, I will have an OVERLOAD of 'drinks' after this Saturday.

 

i did all of my lights...doors climate control even the "shifter light mod". but let me tell u what worked the best for the shifter light mod. i bent the leds like u did in ur pic and then bent them again so i could rest them on the trim piece instead of using the plastic garbage. iused 4 of them pointing strait down. worked the absolute BEST!

heres behind my climate control:


heres underneathe it looking up:


heres a shot of the light it puts out IN THE DAY WITH THE SUN!


its pretty damn bright at night. i can count the change in the change try

 

sweet....i'll schedule a saturday off from work and we'll hit it all.....might as well change the key ring color too....w00t

 

***UPDATE***

Ok, some important discoveries were made regarding this mod when I was doing it for Greg. We ran nito some trouble, so here's what w had to do in order to get it fully working:

The next step is to wrap the OEM circut board in electrical tape. This will serve as a safeguard from the OEM circut panel coming into contact with the LED circut. If you do not do this, there is a good chance you will blow the circut, and have to start all over. Using 3M electrical tape tightly wrap the panel. The next step then is to cut a slit where all of the window levers are located as seen here:



Them, cut out holes for thee OEM harness as seen here:



Finally, and this is critical, you must CUT the small RED with WHITE-STRIPE wire from the oem harness. This wire supplies the power to the OEM LEDs. Cutting this wire simply eliminates power from going to the LEDs in your OEM masterswitch. If you leave this wire attached and do not cut it, all of your LEDs will not light. Cut the wire, and attach the (+) lead from your LEDs...NOW YOU'RE DONE!

 

i just used more of the marine goop and slapped it all over any open wire or connection or LED prong. worked as a sealant to prevent anything from touching.

 

Yea, Metal and Me ran into a ish load of problems, but hopefully since we fixed them no one else will run into these same problems.

BTW metal, i left ya feedback in the forum

 

Bumped for Deck...

 

hey metal, the LEDs u used, were they 3mm or 5mm?
i'm also not sure if you had room, but if you wired them in a parallel circuit, it'll be brighter.
and whoever asked if u need a circuit, i'm not sure how much the stock circuitry will withstand how many amps, but the equation is V=IR; voltage = amp x resistance. voltage in a new battery while car is off is 12.6V, and can go up to a good 14-15, i believe while running.
damn just realized this was an old *** thread too. gj btw

 

The circut was designed to handle 14V...I have been running this with no problems and hella brightness since this thread was made.

So far, tried, tested, and true.

 

I just paid a guy at a stereo shop $40 to solder my fronts directly to the circuit board and did the rears myself. Took one look at the fronts and decide to pay a pro. Need to re-aim my right rear passenger window LED, but really happy with the results.

 

"Supermodels and Movie Stars are powerless to resist blue backlit doorsill plates" (quoted something like that from Richard Hamilton of TopGear)

 

can you do this to all door switches.

 

Hey Metal-

How about that LED assembly you made for me for the entry light on the door? Had a chance to fix & ship back? Would've PM'd or e-mailed you, but PM box is full & e-mail is invalid now.

Sorry for the hijack, guys.

 

Wow and i thought i was the only one....what`s the deal Dan?

I`m still waiting!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Those look great I will try that soon thanks.

 

Metal - Now one of the LED's is out on the passenger door assembly I bought from you. Shouldn't these last more than 6 months?

Post or PM me ASAP so we can get this worked out. Thanks

 

looks nice

 

Bumping 8 month old threads FTL.

 

whats ups fellas,

So I finally finished doing the window switch leds metals way. Only problem he says to tap into the red w/ white strip wire. I tapped into the the only think white w/ red stripe wire thinking this was the one on the bigger harness but the leds stayed on constant. I dont see the red and white wire that he shows in the pic post #47
Is that located on the smaller harness?

I don't know if the colors are different because I have a 2k2.

Thanks,
Kev

 

Wow bumping an old thread

 

where the hell has metal been?

 

where the hell has metal been?

 

Double post FTL!


I would like to know too.

 

did anyone else experience this?

 

engaged/ somewhat married/job workload,.... and there it is..

 

pics arent showing on this one too.

 

Don't know if I still have the pics, I'll have to check for this one as well...

 

Found 'em. I'll post up tomorrow.

 

sweet! Thanks!

 

Bump for pictures? Thanks

 

 

Crapballs, is this one still without pictures? Someone send me your window switch so I can redo this.

 

That would be me tough guy!

 

I was thinking the same thing.

GENTS: I'll have this thread updated in a few weeks, I'm likely going to be performing the LED upgrade on Teaner's whip. I'll do the full write up at well.

 

I'll send u minds .....

 

there are no pictures in this thread

 

Probably because the thread is 5 years old and the OP hasn't been around here for at least 2 years. Links are dead.