I just replaced a bad Oxygen sensor on my 2000 SE. Replacing that sensor got rid of the "Check Engine" light, (Woo-Hoo! ) but did not get rid of the engine "miss" that I'm getting at about 3,200 RPM.

Is it at all possible to have a bad MAF with no "Check Engine" light?

The car runs and drives great in all other aspects, but stumbles consistently at about 3,200RPM.

Any advice/experience would be appreciated...

 

my engine coils were bad for about 3 weeks before the light finally came on. so probably yes...

 

yes MAF can go bad w/out triggering the SES light. I had the original MAF gone bad (w/out SES) and a new blown (w/ SES).

 

So what do you think here guys?

How should I diagnose this without a code?

If I accelerate at "full throttle", it will zip right up to about 3,200 RPM and then it feels like you lifted your foot off the pedal to about 1/2 throttle and will continue to feel that way as it continues to climb RPM's. (just with less power)

About a month ago I checked the Variable Intake set up and that seemed fine (tight) so I put it back together.

Maybe I should just wait till it throws a code?

Would having the battery disconnected to reset the "Check Engine" light when I replaced the O2 sensor cause this? (just a thought)

I'm about to this point now....

 

I had a MAF blow and had exactly the same symptoms except mine would lose power at 4000 rpm, and also no code. I bought a new one from DaveB off a 2k1 and it ran great. In fact, I think the stock MAF had been going for awhile, because it felt like it ran harder with the new one than I remember it running with the stock one before it blew.

 

Thanks Sooner02R1, I may wait and see if anyone says anything else about it. If not, I'll throw in a 2K1 MAF for giggles and see what happens.

 

Can you use an OBD-II tool to moniter engine performance to see if something looks funky? May be the ignition coils, as a lot of people have said that one of the signs of iginition coils beginning to fail is when you begin to lack power under higher load. (>3000 rpm)

When my MAF started going, it was the first cold start of the day the engine would stumble a bit, then be fine, but the overall power across the entire RPM range got worse and worse terrible. Right before it did fail, if I hit the accelerator within the first 30 sec upon startup, the engine would stall

Then again, if you don't have the redesigned MAF (22680-2Y001), may as well get one, as the original design will probably fail.

 

Guavo-
Mine does this like you describe...

it was the first cold start of the day, the engine would stumble a bit, then be fine.

 

Absolutely! My MAF was probably bad for a year prior to throwing a code.

 

i have exact same problem .... as you describe.. took it to the friend at the dealer ....he checked the maf even updated everything .... then this is what he said ...
"NOrmal operation of torque convertor lock up."
"Can't eliminate it, will always do that in any auto tranny"
i mean he is not gonna try to f me over... at least i dont think..... but i am skeptical.

 

i think so because when i got teh SES light it came then came off after i hit a bump. But i was still getting MAF like problems

 

Then it's probably your MAF... it will get much worse... just replaced mine on monday (68k miles) and it is just incredible how much better it runs... Some people have cleaned their sensors successfully, but I completely killed mine by cleaning it. (It was close to dead anyhow, so I figured why not try )

I thought my auto tranny was screwy too for awhile as it was shifting pretty hard in addition to the startup sluggishness, but since I've replaced the MAF it has been shifting silky smooth again... Can't believe I waited 8 or so months to replace it... the check engine light coming on finally convinced me, but it only came on a week and a half ago.

 

I think I am going through this same problem. My 2k Max drove great untill three weeks ago...the car felt a little sluggish at around 3000RPM. No SES light yet but how could I tell if the MAF is bad? Is there a way to test it without having to go to a mechanic?

 

Where is the MAF sensor located. I saw a couple of wires attached to something right after the ari filter and i was wondering if that is it.

I am also feeling loss of power lately and last week, i was driving around with 4 people in the car and the A/C was on (Outside temperature close to 100F) and i felt like a slight stumble a couple of times (i did not notice the RPM) and after the car gained speed, it went away. I was just wondering if i can maybe clean the MAF sensor

My car is a 2k3 max with 39000 miles on it and i have no mods on the vehicle.

 

I had no stumble after the initial warmup stumbles... power loss was pretty even across the entire RPM range... Normal driving just felt like I was towing around a 3 ton trailer all the time.

I did get an SES light about 4 months ago... drove up a fairly steep hill right after starting it up on a farily cold morning, SES light popped right on... but the light went out 3 starts later. Not sure that if event doesn't reoccur in next 3 starts, then it's ignored as random by the ECU? That was the only SES I saw, until it went on and stayed on this last time...

The MAF is the thing with the electrical connection located directly after the airbox in the intake flow.

I'm not sure on the 03, since it's a different engine (Not sure how much different, but certainly larger)... MAF issue is primarily with the 2000 and possible the 2001s?

 

Well, I've got the MAF on order........

 

Welcome to the MAF Club- join the line after me, I'm on my 7th MAF I think I blew the 1st 5th gen MAF in April of '02.

MAF on our Maximas are like women, they are nice when they are your GF and are fresh, once they get old they just fall apart. 4 MAFs on my car set check engine lights when the MAF broke apart inside and engine ingested the hot wire filament, and the other 3 just died of the "slower and slower feeling" of the engine I was getting. I have the newest updated MAF and it seems to be holding up good so far.

 

I have a slight hesitation around 2k RPM's when I hit the gas. Not sure if it could be the MAF or possibly dirty throttle body? It only happens during acceleration from 2k RPM's not from start. Anyone have that issue before?

 

All the talk I see on this (and other) sites about MAF's going bad makes me wonder if it's an issue of a bad (poorly designed) aircleaners that people are putting in their engines.

I've got a friend who's a tech for Honda, and he claims that Honda has many issues with failed MAFs when they were driven with aftermarket (i.e. non-factory like Fram, K&N, Purolator, etc.) air filters whether they were paper or oiled-element filters.

Now don't go pulling out your stories about "Well I had a civic that went 220,000 miles on ONE Fram filter" or "My Maxima has a K&N that I've run since day 1 and no bad MAFs". (Right, like THAT could ever happen!)

I just think it's something to consider.... I wonder how long a MAF would last if it was used with a "factory" NISSAN airfilter.

 

I just think it's something to consider.... I wonder how long a MAF would last if it was used with a "factory" NISSAN airfilter.

I think many people had their MAF's go with stock intake...

 

people's mafs have gone bad with stock air boxes. The 2k2/2k3 maxima is the most prone to maf failure. It seems the 2k/2k1 have really decent reliability. Its kinda up in the air. People with aftermarket filters have never changed thier maf and others have.

 

You Honda tech friend is a complete idiot- Hondas do not use MAFs, they use a MAP sensor which sits usually on top of the throttle body and works off vacuum. Only Honda which used a MAF sensor was 96-98 2.5TL with the 5 cylinder engine. No other Honda uses a MAF sensor and they do NOT have any failures from using any filters, **** you can run the car with nothing but the throttle body and it will run just fine ! Please tell your friend who is a Honda tech to go shoot himself in his crack head. I work for Acura as a tech if you got any doubts bout my information. Thank you.

 

did you say your on you 7TH MAF!, Blackbird?....are you serious or being sarcastic?

 

BlackbirdVQ-
I was just passing along what he told me, maybe I misquoted him, maybe he's wrong, eitherway I was just passing along the info that he feels it's very important to run stock (IE Honda Brand) paper elements. I don't know why he said it, but he did.

Now why the hell did you have to blast me like that about it?


I wasn't trying to "twist anybody's ***" on the deal, just trying to help.....

 

i thought it was common knowledge hondas didn't use mafs

btw, i dont think 2002/2003's are most prone to failure. i personally think the 03 is pretty decent, i see a very low frequency of incidents with 03 owners....anyone disagree?

 

i have 03. 2 years into it no MAF codes.
i do have the exact symptoms that SAXART described.
and my friend at nissan Dealer said it's not the MAF. if you want to see what he said ..read post #10

 

GoldmaxNYC-
Thanks, my car is the 5-speed though, so I guess that rules out the torque-converter.

igehettoboyi-
I guess it's not....

 

if u have it on your 5 speed.. then its possible that its not the torque converter on my auto either.. since we have identical symptoms..

i'll be driving....pressing the gas at about 3200, while not letting go of the gas pedal the rpms fall to about 3000 or so and then continue to climb back up? is that your symptoms? just want to make sure

 

GoldMaxNYC-
My RPMs don't fall, but when I get to about 3,200 it feels like I took my foot halfway off the gas. It keeps accelerating, but much slower from there.

It's noticable enough for my 6-year-old daughter to notice it. "Daddy, why are you driving funny like that?"

 

ok then ... different symptoms ...

 

I didnt blast you, I'm sorry that it sounded that way, but I blasted your moron friend who seems to know as much about cars as every Honda mechanic I have known- basically NOTHING, if its not a Honda they can't fix it or will they even wanna hear bout it.

 

excuse me??? i'm with stupid?? wtf did i say? i was talking about 03's not your 00......wow go toss a salad seriously..

 

igehettoboyi-
Jiggy don't toss no salad....

You said...
"I thought it was common knowledge hondas didn't use mafs"

I said, "I guess it's not" as in I guess it's not common knowledge. ('Cause I'm stupid!) The stupid reference was toward myself, although it was poorly placed, so I see how it could have been misunderstood.

My bad...Sorry 'bout that...

 

daaaaaaamn. 7?! after the second time, i would start to look into the possibilty that something else is making them go bad. Thats like,instead of cleaning the broken glass out of your driveway, you just cop 4 new tires everyday. (wait,is it like that?? too early in the a.m for metaphors)

 

Saxart,

Did the new MAF fix your problem?

- Vikas

 

Man what a strange thread. I can feel the love. Well I've been having the same kind of problem with acceleration and ect. My problem started about a month ago and it's only getting worse. Mine starts at about 4200 RPM but my car has taken it farther with two coils replaced this week, plugs and a SES light complaining of an O2 sensor. After reading the first few threads I guess the MAF is the likely suspect? I dread taking it to the shop for diagnostics and I have already spent $200 in parts this week and I don't want to make an uneducated guess and buy a part I don't need. I've already spent more on this car than I would normally do and A trade to a 04 or new is about to happen.

 

My MAF was just replaced under warranty at 35k. No SES light.

There was a noticable hesitation upon acceleration at around 2-3k rpm as others mentioned. The car is significantly more responsive now....like a new car.

The car had only used Nissan paper filters.....so its time to switch to an aftermarked oiled one Seriously, I doubt the filter has anything to do with it. Ive had good luck with aftermarket intakes with K&N on my Miata and TransAm (MAF).

 

How did you know your MAF was going? I have very poor acceleration and power. Also, I cant get my RPMS above 3500. I am bringing the car to NISSAN, what should I tell them to get the MAF replaced. How do they test for a bad MAF. THey have told me that unless the computer says there is a problem, the MAF is fine. I have a extended Warranty to the Air Flow Meter (MAF?) should be covered.

 

I would assume if it is not throwing a SES code then they will not cover it under warranty. If you have a deductable to pay with the extended warranty, it will be close to order the new one from DaveB. I picked mine up for less than $90 shipped and had it installed in less than 15 minutes. Just my $0.02.

 

I have a 50 Dollar dedecutable, I would order it from Dave B, but I do not know how to install it. I am not savy with cars, and I dont really know who would install it for me. Did you install yours yourself?