Cleaning the IACV
Originally Posted by 2248
Does anyone have a write-up on cleaning the IACV? I tried searching around on the org, but wasn't able to find anything. Thanks everyone!
lucky it was only 70 bucks and not 200
Originally Posted by HenryNYC1
Do not attempt to clean it. Cleaning it may actually damage it and cause it to stop working properly. If you must just replace but not worth it if it is working and you just wanted to clean it up. Wish someone answered this question for me when I did it to my other car
lucky it was only 70 bucks and not 200
lucky it was only 70 bucks and not 200
Originally Posted by 2248
Does anyone have a write-up on cleaning the IACV? I tried searching around on the org, but wasn't able to find anything. Thanks everyone!
Ordered at 6:30pmEST
Received at 10:30amEST
I just changed mine last night and it came with all the parts (IACV, sensor, screws & gasket).
This is how I did it...I didn't have a write-up to follow and it could be the wrong way:
1) Remove stock air box (6 or so bolts) and MAF tube
2) Remove accordian looking tube between throttle body and part of air box
3) Unplug 2 sensors on TPS (throttle position sensor on throttle body)
3) Unbolt 4 bolts holding Throttle Body in place
4) Remove two tubes from IACV (on to the left and one under). These leak fluid (coolant I assume)
5) Unplug sensor to IACV
6) Remove TB and IACV as one unit. Take to work bench
7) Flip over entire unit and unscrew 5 screws securing IACV to TB (careful, I stripped last one and had to wiggle the two piece around to loosen the screw)
8) Detach and set aside IACV. You're done with it and the sensor
9) Remove gasket from TB and any junk left from it
10) Clean TB with TB cleaner and wipe down butterfly valve
11) Place new gasket in groove
12) Set IACV in place and hand tighten the 5 new screws
13) Tighten screws with flat head screw driver (I did like you would lugnuts, alternating every other one)
14) Bring new unit back to engine bay
15) Re-install both fluid tube to IACV
16) Plug in sensor to IACV
17) Bolt TB to manifold with 4 long bolts (make sure gasket threre didn't fall)
18) Re-install accordian tube
19) Re-install air box
20) Double check all bolts
Mine is still throwing a code but my buddy said I had to bring it back to him at Nissan anyway. I was having problems with my TPS before and we had adjusted the throttle cables to get me running again. Now that eveything has been replaced, we're going to get all the codes looked at again and cleared.
Hope that helped.
Eric
**EDIT**
I'm not sure you clean it. Mine wasn't dirty...mine was bad from a SES code.
Originally Posted by GaMax97GLE
It's only $175 at www.pinnaclenissan.com (and I got mine next day shipped).
Ordered at 6:30pmEST
Received at 10:30amEST
I just changed mine last night and it came with all the parts (IACV, sensor, screws & gasket).
This is how I did it...I didn't have a write-up to follow and it could be the wrong way:
1) Remove stock air box (6 or so bolts) and MAF tube
2) Remove accordian looking tube between throttle body and part of air box
3) Unplug 2 sensors on TPS (throttle position sensor on throttle body)
3) Unbolt 4 bolts holding Throttle Body in place
4) Remove two tubes from IACV (on to the left and one under). These leak fluid (coolant I assume)
5) Unplug sensor to IACV
6) Remove TB and IACV as one unit. Take to work bench
7) Flip over entire unit and unscrew 5 screws securing IACV to TB (careful, I stripped last one and had to wiggle the two piece around to loosen the screw)
8) Detach and set aside IACV. You're done with it and the sensor
9) Remove gasket from TB and any junk left from it
10) Clean TB with TB cleaner and wipe down butterfly valve
11) Place new gasket in groove
12) Set IACV in place and hand tighten the 5 new screws
13) Tighten screws with flat head screw driver (I did like you would lugnuts, alternating every other one)
14) Bring new unit back to engine bay
15) Re-install both fluid tube to IACV
16) Plug in sensor to IACV
17) Bolt TB to manifold with 4 long bolts (make sure gasket threre didn't fall)
18) Re-install accordian tube
19) Re-install air box
20) Double check all bolts
Mine is still throwing a code but my buddy said I had to bring it back to him at Nissan anyway. I was having problems with my TPS before and we had adjusted the throttle cables to get me running again. Now that eveything has been replaced, we're going to get all the codes looked at again and cleared.
Hope that helped.
Eric
Ordered at 6:30pmEST
Received at 10:30amEST
I just changed mine last night and it came with all the parts (IACV, sensor, screws & gasket).
This is how I did it...I didn't have a write-up to follow and it could be the wrong way:
1) Remove stock air box (6 or so bolts) and MAF tube
2) Remove accordian looking tube between throttle body and part of air box
3) Unplug 2 sensors on TPS (throttle position sensor on throttle body)
3) Unbolt 4 bolts holding Throttle Body in place
4) Remove two tubes from IACV (on to the left and one under). These leak fluid (coolant I assume)
5) Unplug sensor to IACV
6) Remove TB and IACV as one unit. Take to work bench
7) Flip over entire unit and unscrew 5 screws securing IACV to TB (careful, I stripped last one and had to wiggle the two piece around to loosen the screw)
8) Detach and set aside IACV. You're done with it and the sensor
9) Remove gasket from TB and any junk left from it
10) Clean TB with TB cleaner and wipe down butterfly valve
11) Place new gasket in groove
12) Set IACV in place and hand tighten the 5 new screws
13) Tighten screws with flat head screw driver (I did like you would lugnuts, alternating every other one)
14) Bring new unit back to engine bay
15) Re-install both fluid tube to IACV
16) Plug in sensor to IACV
17) Bolt TB to manifold with 4 long bolts (make sure gasket threre didn't fall)
18) Re-install accordian tube
19) Re-install air box
20) Double check all bolts
Mine is still throwing a code but my buddy said I had to bring it back to him at Nissan anyway. I was having problems with my TPS before and we had adjusted the throttle cables to get me running again. Now that eveything has been replaced, we're going to get all the codes looked at again and cleared.
Hope that helped.
Eric
I got something simulair. I think you gotta replace ecu
Originally Posted by Gennady7
What was the reason you had to change it, what was the code or error?
I got something simulair. I think you gotta replace ecu
I got something simulair. I think you gotta replace ecu
-Last month TPS gave error...replaced it last week
-Then IACV gave error...replaced yesterday
Yeah, if it still has and error then I might need the ECU replaced and I'm going to be pissed. But original guy that fried it will do under warranty...but then I'm still out $300 (for TPS & IACV) IF they were indeed ok. But they're bound to fail at some point right?
Originally Posted by 2248
How did you know that your ECU needed to be replaced, symptoms? Also, how much and where did you get it from? Thanks!
But the ECU should be covered under the Federal Emmissions Warranty of 80,000 miles or 8 years...same as catalytic converters...right?
http://www.epa.gov/otaq/consumer/warr95fs.txt
Originally Posted by Gennady7
Still wondering where I can get it for 70 posted ^ by HenryNYC1
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